Worcester Bosch Greenstar 30SI - No CH, DHW Fine.

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Hi All,
I am quite new to boilers etc but very competent.

I've spent the past few days with a plumber fitting a used WB 30si. I bought the boiler from somebody who had it in an extension and used it rarely but they showed me it working. It sat in my garage for a few weeks and now its been fitted.

I installed the boiler with a NEST learning thermostat but can confirm this is working fine and there is a Live supply to the ST10-LR when the thermostat is 'heating' so thats confirmed to not be the issue. Everything worked as soon as we fired up the boiler, heating come on etc then i turned down the thermostat and then tried to fire it up again it didnt come back.

Sadly we lost all heat to the CH but the DHW seemed to be fine and fired up the boiler everytime i turned on a tap.

I did a little research and removed the Divertor valve motor (slid out) it seemed to move up and down when the boiler was turned on/off so i dont think thats the problem but with it removed and the boiler powered on both the hot water and the CH is working but constantly, not controllable (via thermostat). So thankfully i was able to get heat in the house but sadly we have no control over it and have to turn off the boiler to cool off.

The arm behind that motor moves, i removed the front of the valve and cleaned the "tongue?" inside the valve.

Im not sure which part is faulty if any now as i find it highly strange that with the motor removed (still plugged in to the power) it circulates properly.

Any help appreciated before i spend a fortune on an actual engineer.
 
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I would be getting someone competant to have a look, no gas advice will be given as removing the front case on this boiler breaks gas regs.
 
I am working in the base of the boiler, nowhere near the Gas components and below the front cover.

Confirmed from site rules re: DIY Gas:

And
Water-carrying parts of a boiler unrelated to gas or airflow, such as the pump or hydraulics, can be worked on without gas training, though you still have to be competent, for example electrically.


Read more: //www.diynot.com/forums/plumbing/diy-gas.8090/#ixzz3Tb0JtK00[/QUOTE]

I am an electrical engineer and more than competent to work on water pipes.

There is no law or requirement for a gas safety engineer to work on the seperate hot water pipes but thanks for your concern, I'm hard up and have a freezing cold family we spent a fortune to get the boiler in and working and just trying to safe a few pounds on diagnosis now as sadly were not under any warranties etc.

I am more than competent to switch a part or two and happy to pay a gas safety engineer to check my work before firing i just cant afford the £30/hr+ rates right now.

Also, at least 5 other posts on this similar issue i found on this forum with plenty of advice being given.
 
I guess you have tried to reset the boiler and that did nothing?

Would you say that the boiler just doesn't recognise the demand that is being put on the CH from the thermostat?

If you think the diverter valve is functioning correctly, I can only think it is the link between the thermostat >> boiler >> diverter valve.
 
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Just for the interest of any other honest people trying to make ends meet and save a few pounds.

My issue was a water leak on my hot water pipes (unfortunately underground) which lead to the boiler having a constant demand for hot water thus prioritising that system and bypassing the CH system.

Turns out i didn't need to be gas registered afterall.
 

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