Short term fix of Leadwork

[rfdesigner]

Hi.

I have a piece of leadwork across the base of a large south facing dormer window, probably about 25 foot or more in length and all in one piece.

Anyway, no surprises it's split and a few tiles in the top course directly in contact with the lead are missing/broken/slipped as the cement has failed.

There is a problem with simply ripping out the old leadwork and replacing (my preferred option) in that the leadwork goes underneath the windows and up a lip on the inside, such that any water can't penetrate inside. This does seem to work, the house appears dry.

So to do a proper job necessitates removing the windows ( = £££)

I posess reasonable soldering skills (I've worked with various solders and have a stash of 60/40 solder as well as a temperature controlled iron and various sized blow torches) so feel confident I could attempt a repair, after a little practice.. or I could use one of the flashing/bitumen tape products to recreate a seal by placing it on the back of the exposed leadwork.

So any opinions/warnings/alternatives?

thanks in advance

Derek

 

[catlad]

Taking the windows out sounds a big job, is it possible to cut the leadwork 3or4" below the window take the old lead out and put some new in then fold the old bit down on top to form a cover flashing.

 

[rfdesigner]

The existing leadwork only extends around 4" below the window as it is. The idea has been raised of placing new leadwork underneath (cost ~£600+), but I feel this can only be a temporary solution. I have no problem in paying £600 but then I want a proper long term fix. If a long term fix means taking the windows out then a short term fix will do, so long as it will function up to the point where the windows have to come out anyway and the proper solution can then be employed.

Oh, and the property is ~250yrs old, next door (attached, but older) is listed we aren't, if I keep my head down I hoping it will stay not listed.

Derek

 

[hardmetalking]

You can't solder lead. You have to weld it with Oxy Accetaline bottles. The short term bodge would be mastic lead sealant. If you got someone in to weld the split they could charge £250 so the £600 seems reasonable. That's a long piece of lead so should be split into several pieces, if it doesn't have sufficient fall it may require very large laps making it more expensive. You should consider alternative materials- zinc, copper or stainless steel. It would be cheaper and longer lasting.

 

[Nige F]

Hi.

.. or I could use one of the flashing/bitumen tape products to recreate a seal by placing it on the back of the exposed leadwork.


Derek

Go for that ! - you only need to patch over the splits so you dont need 25 feet of it . Trust me I`m a Leadwork trained plumber

 

[rfdesigner]

thanks.

anyidea as to how long the bodge might last?.. it's south facing with no shade.

Derek

 

[garyo]

Out of interest, why can't you solder lead? I've repaired lead flashings on outbuildings in the past with flux and lead based solder - it seems to suck in by capillary action and make the joint waterproof. Is it not a good long term fix?

 

[hardmetalking]

Cheap solder is made of tin and lead. Tin is a hard metal and lead is a soft metal. The tin content stops the solder from adhering to the lead and at different rates of expansion and contraction the bond will eventually break. You should never need to solder lead and there is often an alternative to welding as well.