Verge on New loft roof cracked

[jwpetal]

Hello. Our loft conversion is close to completion and I went up the scaffolding to take a look at the work. I noticed the verge of the roof (where there is cement at the edges and gutter area) is cracked. Is this okay or do i need to have this redone? I have read other posts and it looks like it would be better to have it redone but thought I'd check. I have included pictures.
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[saladdays]

Where are the pictures?

 

[freddiemercurystwin]

They're in his album in his profile, @ the OP it needs re-doing.

 

[jwpetal]

Is this unusual for a new roof to have this happen? Also, does this mean that just the tiles where the cracks are need to be redone? is this a complicated job...in general.

thanks.

 

[ree]

There are a number of odd things about this OP's post ... ?

Anyhow, the pointing at the verge and in the valley is wrong.

Could you post pics giving more overall views, so that the details can be seen in context?

 

[jwpetal]

I hope these pictures give a better view. It is quite difficult to get everything. I did notice while up there that a few tiles are not even stuck to the mortar. The annoying thing is the building control was here and did not say anything.

I suspect the builder will try to do just pointing and not redoing. should I push hard for a redo? He has gone over time by weeks and we are really fed up.

how long before cracks appear if the mortar has not been done properly?
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[cotswoldbuilders]

The end tiles, and valley tiles need lifting, then re-bed them back on, preferably with some cement added to the mix.
Some glass fibre strands added to the mix will help prevent cracking, especially up the valley.
You might need to check the mortar on the ridge tiles as well, as it all looks a weak mix.

 

[Joe Malone]

To get verge fillets done correctly they must be done in one operation when laying the last course of roof tiles at the verge. Otherwise you are really just buttering up the joint. Secondly, it is the sand and cement mixture that it often wrong, builders and roofers all have their own interpretation on what it should be but it should be 1 part cement to three parts sharp sand for verge fillets.

 

[ree]

The gutter in pic 1. is holding water.

Pic 1. again: The eaves or double tiles under the first full course of plain tiles appear to be missing. Eaves tiles are a necessity with clay tile.

Why haven't plastic eaves protection systems been installed?

How come plain tile was not used on the front elevation roof?

The "joining strip" used between the dissimilar roof tiles is not a best practice method. How is it finished at the eaves?

 

[tony1851]

Pic 1. again: The eaves or double tiles under the first full course of plain tiles appear to be missing. Eaves tiles are a necessity with clay tile.

I'm not sure those are clay tiles - they look like Marley Old English dark red concrete plain tiles. Agree about the lack of eaves under-tile, but the verge on that side looks suspicious anyway and unlike a plain-tile verge. Maybe they are those imitation plain tiles which are designed to be single lap?

The close-up of the verge to the gable over the bedroom window shows poor practice - ie no undercloak.

The pointing generally is poor; the roofing has clearly not been done by a roofer but probably the joiners who did the conversion.

 

[jwpetal]

thanks for all the feedback.

I'll follow up on the points mentioned. I am not sure of the tile material either. Either way, we've decided to get our building inspector back...though he has already inspected the roof once, but can't recall if the cracking was already showing.

The roof has been done by the builder doing the loft and not, I believe, qualified roofers.

It is so frustrating as we are so close to end of project but at least we've caught it before too late.

 

[jwpetal]

this is an update on the work and an additional question. I don't know if anyone will check this.

Our builder came along and redid some of the verge work though there are sections with cracks still in it. He insists that the verge mortar is only for decoration and does not stop the water from going in. from my understanding this is not true. However, it is like talking to a brick wall.

Building control came along and said that the lead flashing on the dormer was not done correctly and some tiles were loose so we had the builder back to repair. Building control also said that we should go for a dry verge system. He did not comment fully on the cracked verge just that we should have the dry verge system. any idea how much this costs and is it worth it at this time?

We will have the builder and building control here next week and we have to decide if we push back on the cracked verge or go with the dry system or just let it go. I know this needs to done right and they want to take the scaffolding down, but feeling very tired of the whole thing. Any guidance much appreciated.

 

[Cabbyfan]

I'm not a professional roofer but even to my limited knowledge the lead looks wrong on the dormer valleys and is that mortar I see ontop of the flashing ?

Also is building control ok with the different tile styles ?

There are some thin strips of tile at the roof ends that look vulnerable to becoming loose in time to me as well.

 

[catlad]

Poor workmanship they do tile and halfs so that there is no need to put 2" pieces in.

 

[jwpetal]

you are right about the small tiles on the end. This is one of the areas that building control said had to be fixed as well as the lead flashing. The small tiles were all loose and could possibly let the water in.

On Monday the three of us will meet to review the work done....I think still not correct (did not wrap lead at the end and still loose tiles) but need the two together to discuss with us there.

Any ideas about if I should push for 100% crack free verge on the sloping roof? or push for dry verge system? The internet is a bit mixed on the cost benefit of this system
.