Floor Tiling in Bathroom..... HELLLLP

[Jibbs]

Hello all

I'm looking to be installing some floor tiles in my upstairs bathroom but this will be my first time. I've had a little a read up but am seeking some more advice. Obviously you can't lay tiles straight on floor boards and i have read about laying 2 layers of 6mm ply first. Is this correct? If not, what would be suitable? Also if any problems should arise in the near future regarding pipework under the floor boards would i then need to take up the '2 layers of 6mm ply' and tiles to resolve the issue or is there another way? Finally, what with the 2 layers of 6mm and the tile thickness, it will be a higher level to that of my landing. How could i resolve this? Would i have to use a reducer like in floor laminate?

Sorry if i sound stupid but i want to get this spot on and know everything before i start

 

[iwaters]

You have two options. The first is to rip out the floor boards and replace with 25mm thick WPB plywood. This is the prefered option, especially if you are worried about the height difference of the floors.

The other option is to overboard. A single layer of 15mm WPB plywood would normally be ok. There are other options such as No More Ply or cement backer boards which you could investigate.

The underside and edges of the plywood need to be sealed with a primer before installing.

You should lift some boards and check the size and span of the joists as this may dictate the best way of overboarding. It will also give you the oppotunity to confirm where the pipes are so you don't drive a screw into them.

There shouldn't be any need to access the pipes providing they are installed correctly and you don't stick a screw through them. If there is ever a need to get to them you will have to cut in from the plasterboard below or ruin your tiled floor.

Make sure you read the tile sitcky as there is plenty of good information in there. Also you are going to need a decent flexible tile adhesive, make sure you get a decent trade one. They are more expensive than the DIY shed stuff but less expensive than having to re-do the floor because the shed stuff is crap. If its your first go at tiling I would avoid the rapid set stuff. It will mean you have to wait 24 hours before grouting but will give you more time to set your tiles properly.

 

[Jibbs]

You have two options. The first is to rip out the floor boards and replace with 25mm thick WPB plywood. This is the prefered option, especially if you are worried about the height difference of the floors.

The other option is to overboard. A single layer of 15mm WPB plywood would normally be ok. There are other options such as No More Ply or cement backer boards which you could investigate.

The underside and edges of the plywood need to be sealed with a primer before installing.

You should lift some boards and check the size and span of the joists as this may dictate the best way of overboarding. It will also give you the oppotunity to confirm where the pipes are so you don't drive a screw into them.

There shouldn't be any need to access the pipes providing they are installed correctly and you don't stick a screw through them. If there is ever a need to get to them you will have to cut in from the plasterboard below or ruin your tiled floor.

Make sure you read the tile sitcky as there is plenty of good information in there. Also you are going to need a decent flexible tile adhesive, make sure you get a decent trade one. They are more expensive than the DIY shed stuff but less expensive than having to re-do the floor because the shed stuff is crap. If its your first go at tiling I would avoid the rapid set stuff. It will mean you have to wait 24 hours before grouting but will give you more time to set your tiles properly.

Ok thanks for the advice. When laying the plywood (whatever option), should i leave a 10mm gap from the walls like in laminate flooring as wood expands?

 

[iwaters]

Yes you should. Although it will be tightly screwed down it will still move (hence the need for flexible adhesive).

You either have to remove the skirting board or use a quarter inch round trim to hide the gap. I prefer to remove the skirting because it lets me hide my cuts then as well!

 

[tpt]

personally i'd go with the no more ply route - assuming your bathroom (and hence the span) isnt enormous. you then only get 6mm height increase and the board size is easier to manage\cut for a diy'er.

We shift loads of no more ply and never see problems if instructions are followed.

Make sure you use a flexi adhesive and grout too, a single part one such as granfix rapidset flexible (blue bag)