impact screwdriver bits getting mashed!

[somewhereinthehills]

Hi,
My impact driver is going through screwdriver bits at an alarming rate , I've tried just about every brand and they all get mashed far too quickly. Quite often on the poorer quality bits, I can use two per screw . The wera ones are about (usually) the longest lasting but come with a nasty price tag, all the other 'big' brand names I find generally,last no longer than 'cheapies'. At the moment I'm using Olympic ones, very cheap but available in boxes of 50, however they need to be!
Most of my work needs to be screwed as nearly always the timber is too hard to take a nail.
I've tried using different screws, no difference except with the Torx ones which as yet I've yet to break a bit. However they are way too expensive, bearing in mind some weeks I can go through 1500 screws.
So what do other people use and what success do they have with them?
Many thanks.
swith.

 

[big-all]

you are using pz2 bits and holding the bit in an extension bit if countersink is required
countersinking until the bit looses contact with the head will cause this problem or try a 2" bit
i use wera impact bits and will use 2 or 3 on an average decking
http://www.toolstation.com/shop/Wera+Bit+Boxes+PZ2+Bits/p86088

 

[somewhereinthehills]

I've tried 2'' bits (bosch) and found the longer the bit, the worse the problem. The screws aren't being unduly countersunk, just below surface.

Mostly I'm using 3'' upwards to 6'' and rarely 8'', with the guages being 10,12 and 14. 99% of the time I drill a 3.5mm pilot, but this doesn't seem to effect whether the bit will break or not, it just saves some battery juice.
I'm using a proper impact screwdriver not a 'nut runner' Another bloke I know said he stopped using his for that very reason. It does seem that it is common to use loads of bits, but I'm sure i'm using more than I should.
Swith

 

[big-all]

3.5 mm pilot is the right size for for no 8 or4.5 if its just for the shaft
are you piloting the shaft or thread or both ??

 

[catlad]

Trend. do a pilot and countersink in one, in different diameters which will fit in impact driver.

 

[somewhereinthehills]

I've got plenty of countersinks, but whether I pilot or not, there seems to be no rhyme or reason as to whether the bit will or won't break When I do pilot I use about a 3.5, and up to a 6mm for the 8'' and tend to drill about 2/3s depth, but on really old oak I pilot full depth plus a bit. I always ensure the screw is lubricated and never use the trigger as an 'on off' switch, so every time it is as controlled as possible.
I rarely have this problem with the normal screwdriver, but I do find you have to put a heck of a lot more pressure on the drill to prevent any slippage.

I was hoping someone would reply with a ''buy this brand, they never break'', but I'm thinking such a bit doesn't exist.
A case of 'lump it' methinks.

Thanks anyway,
Swith

 

[merlin50]

i use these http://www.toolstation.com/shop/Pow...d+Screwdriver+Bit+PZD+2x25mm/d80/sd660/p68284

they are a bit softer and do not brake but if they spin they have had it

 

[^woody^]

I've been using some 25mm Milwaukee bits which have lasted well - as long as Wera bits but as they are cheaper they are better value. The specific impact bit holder seems to help too

But I don't really see the necessity for an impact drive for screws in softwood, coach screws yes, or possibly for thin metal sheet without pilot holes, but not for just screw driving.

I find that a good 10.8v screwdriver or light 12v drill does the job just the same ... and a lot quieter

I think your problem is that the long screws (100mm plus) you are using is causing greater wear on the bit per screw, so accelerating the stress on the bit. Pilots may not help as the driver will still be impacting and wearing the bit

Perhaps a type of screw that goes in with less resistance may be the answer?

 

[stuartturbo]

I would simply try to not use the impact driver see if things improve

 

[Trazor]

Perhaps a type of screw that goes in with less resistance may be the answer?

Use some candle wax on the screw threads, works a treat.

 

[gregers]

get a pot of tallow,lasts years.
im using the dewalt version of bits these seem to last a lot longer the the cheapos.

 

[somewhereinthehills]

I reckon i'll give the Milwaukee bits a try and see how I go. As mentioned before the screws are always lubricated, either in soap, vaseline or spit.
Before using an impact I would have said there was no need for one too, but fixing two bits of ancient oak together on a fairly regular basis is a job that calls out for one. I did use coachscrews for a while, but had so many sheer off I was asked to stop using them.
Cheers for your replies chaps.
Swith

 

[handyman77]

Go for the Dewalt bits

 

[xdave]

Whichever bits you go for make sure you use a suitable bi-torsion bit holder. They introduce a small amount of deflection between the driver and the bit and help to absorb some of the sheering stress during stops that would otherwise be taken by the bit and screw. Since using them I typically get through one bit for every job instead of one for every box of screws. If you don't want, or can't find, a suitable holder then using a bit with a longer shaft will give you some benefit as it will sheer more before breaking.

Whilst every tool has its place you can use an impact driver for normal driving into softwood - the advantage is an extra coffee break every half hour and no fatigue if you are driving screws constantly... the disdvantage is less finer control. Unless I'm building furniture I'll usually reach for the impact driver first.

 

[Threadjacker]

Wow you guys must use some serious screws, I've been on the same Dewalt bit for about 8 months!

2-3 bits per JOB!