Small auger bits rather than HSS in general construction?

[KevDIY]

I tend to use 6mm hss bits quite a lot in an 18v drill, for drilling screw holes in timber framing, stud-work etc. The long HSS ones are quite expensive though, and not purpose-designed for wood, so I'm considering swapping to 6mm auger bits. I've got on well with bigger augers in general construction work, like drilling joists, However, the 6mm ones look very fragile by comparison.

Does anyone know if the small auger bits are up to the rigours of general construction, or should I stick with HSS?

Cheers
Kev

 

[Burnerman]

The HSS bits will always last better than a carbon steel auger bit......maybe a 6mm flat bit will do the job? At least they are easy enough to hand sharpen with a file.
John

 

[KevDIY]

Thanks John. Yes thats a good point, I was assuming there would be less wear with an auger bit due to the cutting angle being optimised for wood, but you're probably right, I guess it still wouldn't make up for the carbon vs hss steel.

Maybe I should just invest in a decent HSS drill bit sharpener and stop treating them as disposable. It would be easier than sharpening auger bits too!

Cheers
Kev

 

[Dave54]

I've had a 6mm (or it might be quarter inch) Irwin auger bit for years. It did a fair bit of work while I was renovating a couple of cottages when it was new, and has been used quite a bit in oak and other hardwood since. Not such hard use as you'd put it to on site every day, but they do seem pretty durable.

If you use HSS drills get a small bench grinder and learn to sharpen them by hand. Easy and quick once you know how.

 

[KevDIY]

Thanks, thats helpful. I guess I'll probably stick with standard HSS for normal length bits, which I use most, but look at auger bits for longer holes.

Cheers
Kev

 

[Dave54]

That's pretty well what I do. The auger type bits give a nice clean hole if you're careful. I used to use mine mostly for drawboring things like table frames together, where you want a long accurate hole.

I mostly use the dowel point type hss drills for wood rather than the normal "jobber" type. I think they cut better. Although it may be my imagination. Again you can sharpen them freehand on a grinder.

 

[Burnerman]

I've had a 6mm (or it might be quarter inch) Irwin auger bit for years. It did a fair bit of work while I was renovating a couple of cottages when it was new, and has been used quite a bit in oak and other hardwood since. Not such hard use as you'd put it to on site every day, but they do seem pretty durable.

If you use HSS drills get a small bench grinder and learn to sharpen them by hand. Easy and quick once you know how.

I've never mastered the art of drill sharpening.....the drills make a hole like a figure of eight after
I've a machine called a drill doctor that's cleverer than me!
John

 

[KevDIY]

Yeah, I have sharpened them by hand but I find it fiddly to get the centre and angles spot on, especially on the smaller bits.

I had a jig thing in the past that was designed to be rolled along a whetstone, it was fiddly to set up and that needed to be done twice per bit (to do both cutting edges) but it gave very good results. A more modern, less tedious jig may be worth an investment.

Cheers
Kev

 

[Dave54]

Whatever gets the job done John. I was made to learn how to do it by our apprentice instructor. You sharpened a big drill again and again until you got it right. You don't forget! The trick is to hold it up to the light so that it's in silhouette to get the point central.

 

[pinenot]

I always used speed bits, which can be fitted with a long leg and they can be sharpened...pinenot

 

[KevDIY]

I don't think I've ever seen those in 6mm, or possibly (probably) I'm thinking of the wrong thing; are they the tri-flute jobs?

Cheers
Kev

 

[Dave54]

They're 6mm (or quarter inch?) shank aren't they? (ETA Speed bits not tri-flute) Certainly handy for fast holes in softwood, and have the advantage that if you need an odd sized drill for something they can be ground (or filed) to suit, you can also grind the point back, and shape the cutters for use in the pillar drill to give a flat bottomed hole if you need it.
I've got a quarter inch spade bit I made from a length of 3 or 4mm (I can't be bothered to go and look ) silver steel forged flat on the last 20mm or so, ground to shape, and then hardened and tempered. Works fine but you have to watch that it doesn't "whip"

 

[pinenot]

Note the one on the far right, 1/4"-

Untitled

• pinenot
• 22 May 2014
• 1

not common but available...pinenot

 

[KevDIY]

Ah thanks, I was wrongly thinking of the speedbor speed bits. Interesting, I've never seen them that small!

Cheers
Kev