Using wood router for aluminium?

[ChrisR]

I need a few slots and grooves
ANyone tried it? I have a 1/4" router but imagine a 1/2" would be better. Is it OK on a Workmate, hand-holding the router with a guide on the base/bit?
I've used a Skilsaw on ally and been surprised how easy it was.

Alternatively, is there anyone out there who can suggest where I can get some one-off bits of machining done? Nothing very elaborate, doesn't need a full-blown machine shop. Cutting, drilling & counterboring, mostly.

 

[merlin50]

what a good idea, before you start ring 999

 

[Deleted member 174758]

I need a few slots and grooves
ANyone tried it?

Yes. Better done with an HSS spiral bit than with a TCT straight wood bit as it will tend to catch much less. For stability I'd rig-up a second fence on the router so that it is effectively "clamped" onto the material - than stops it trying to wander off cut. A safer way is to use a template guide and a closed slot template (see Trend Knowledge Base article). Limit your depth of cut to 1mm a pass or so - deep plunges can cause grabs, especially in profile section. Reduce router speed - 10,000 to 12,000 rpm gives a more controlled, cooler cut than 24,000rpm. Use a coolant from time to time - even a spritz of WD40 is better than nothing. It isn't a problem if you realise that woodworking kit is too fast for aluminium and take steps to calm things down

Drilling can be done with ordinary HSS twist drills and countersinking is best done with an engineer's HSS countersinker

 

[Symptoms]

Chris -

Trend's Window Industry tackle might be a place to start:

http://www.trend-uk.com/en/UK/productlist/4/144/Plunge_Slotting_and_Routing.html

 

[ChrisR]

Thanks both.
This is aimed at camera-holding stuff. There's a "standard" rail system with grooves in like this one. There are clamps to go with it. In practice the angles vary between makes but it doesn't matter.

Reckon a dovetail bit would stand a chance?

 

[Deleted member 174758]

Reckon a dovetail bit would stand a chance?

No. It would probably shear off at the neck

 

[TicklyT]

To make a piece like the one in your piccie, I would consider just using hand tools.

For the groove in the side, use two pieces of aluminium stock half the finished thickness. File bevels on the sides then rivet the pieces together with countersunk aluminium rivets. Rivet it up before filing up the sides and ends, and the joint will be virtually invisible.

You could form the upstand at the end by bending up the end of the lower piece piece before riveting.

For the slot a drill press would be nice, but not essential. Chain drill undersize along the length of the slot. Finish with full diameter holes (6.5mm?) either end. Remove the waste between the holes with a small rat tail file and finish the slot to width with a warding file.

The (1/4" BSW?) thread could be cut by drilling a 5.1mm hole in the riveted plates, and finishing with a taper tap run right through. Little need for 2nd cut and plug taps for a through hole.

 

[ChrisR]

Ha! Not sure my filing skills would be up to it! These should slide, in a clamp. And some are double-groove like this one, which also has a clamp stuck on the end.

As you can see the clamp would grip anything wiith a regular section groove about the right size, the angle isn't critical as long as it's even. So maybe I could use a wooden V guide and a straight bit...
...a Word doodle...
View media item 44932

 

[Deleted member 174758]

That would work, but I'd suggest going the other way round (i.e. aluminium at the bottom and fixed down to stop it moving) unless you can rig-up pressure pads (a Shaw guard) to press the aluminium firmly against the fence whilst it is machined