Fitting uPVC front and back door

davejuk · 22 Sep 2008

I've just moved into a new house and want to fit modern uPVC doors at the front and back. The windows are double glazed already.

I spoke to a small door and window place down the road and they gave me a ball park figure of £1900 for parts and labour when I told them what I wanted.

I've looked online and to buy the type of door I'm after is around £300 - £400.

Is fitting a door like this really a specialist job or is it worth pricing up the parts and getting a quote from a local builder to fit it?

noseall · 22 Sep 2008

"parts and labour" are you a mechanic by any chance?

the average upvc door and frame costs around £400. it would normally cost about £100 to fit, though this would depend upon quantity (a single door will obviously cost more than multiples or as part of an overall house fix).

£1900, for how many doors?

davejuk · 22 Sep 2008

noseall said:
"parts and labour" are you a mechanic by any chance?

the average upvc door and frame costs around £400. it would normally cost about £100 to fit, though this would depend upon quantity (a single door will obviously cost more than multiples or as part of an overall house fix).

£1900, for how many doors?

Not a mechanic but I worked building and repairing computers for several years and we tended to use those terms

£1,900 was to supply and fit 2 doors, front and back.

Will any competent builder be able to fit a uPVC door?

£1,000 to supply and fit 2 doors was much nearer the price I had in mind.

Richard C · 22 Sep 2008

That's a joke; shop around with your small local companies & you should be able to get much, much cheaper than that. Also be advised that unless you use a FENSA registered company (or the new kid on the block) to install them, replacement doors & windows is notifyable work to your LABC & an inspection (+ fee) is required. I know you’ve only just moved in but without a FESA or LABC certificate of compliance, you will probably have problems when you come to sell up.

davejuk · 22 Sep 2008

Richard C said:
That's a joke; shop around with your small local companies & you should be able to get much, much cheaper than that. Also be advised that unless you use a FENSA registered company (or the new kid on the block) to install them, replacement doors & windows is notifyable work to your LABC & an inspection (+ fee) is required. I know you’ve only just moved in but without a FESA or LABC certificate of compliance, you will probably have problems when you come to sell up.

£1,000 is a joke? Or £1,900? Or both?

I didn't know about the certificate issue, that's something I'll put to anyone else I get a quote from.

Thanks for your advice.

JohnD · 22 Sep 2008

have you considered getting a nice hardwood door and frame? Stronger, more secure, more attractive, and less money. Any competent joiner can fit it for you.

davejuk · 22 Sep 2008

JohnD said:
have you considered getting a nice hardwood door and frame? Stronger, more secure, more attractive, and less money. Any competent joiner can fit it for you.

No, I hadn't really considered a wooden door. I was under the impression that plastic was more secure as well as being less maintenance.

Security is my main concern, with insulation being the other major consideration. As long as it doesn't look terrible I'm not too worried about aesthetics.

The main attraction of the plastic doors to me was the locking system where you push the handle up and it puts 5 bolts across into the frame. Is there a better system available, or is this also offered in wooden doors?

JohnD · 22 Sep 2008

plastic doors are intrinsically weak, so they are decorated with numerous locking gadgets to try to make up for it.

generally you will find these locks do not meet the British Standard anyway.

a good solid hardwood door, with thick panels and no flimsy glazing bars, is stronger and more secure.

you can get multipoint locks by Chubb and Ingersoll for wooden doors, they are expensive and not usually considered necessary. You have never seen a bank with a plastic door.

Front doors are best fitted with a BS deadlock, and some kind of automatic latch. When these are both locked, the door is supported at two points (pref 1/3rd up from the bottom, and 1/3rd down from the top.

back doors should have a BS sashlock, and a rack bolt top and bottom.

keys should not be left in the locks especially if they have glass panels.

preferably do not put the letterbox in the door, but to one side, as it is possible to put a simple tool through a letterbox and manipulate a nightlatch.

you can almost see one of my back doors here, it has a Chubb deadlock and two rack bolts. The glazing bars are very thick, and it is glazed in 6mm (the front door has 7mm laminated). It is M&T hardwood.

View media item 4849

Richard C · 22 Sep 2008

davejuk said:
£1,000 is a joke? Or £1,900? Or both?

The £1,900 of course

But IMO, £1,000 is still OTT & you should be able to get better, that’s’ why I said shop around.

davejuk said:
I didn't know about the certificate issue, that's something I'll put to anyone else I get a quote from.

Its a fact of life that Building Regulations require replacements conform to current regulations & are either fitted by a certified installer or are certified as compliant by your LABC. Its not much use putting it “to anyone else I get a quote from”, if they are not registered they are hardly likely to tell you it's a requirement & it's not excatly a burning issue for your average "cash in hand" fitter, many will only tell you what you want to hear; but of course the decision is entirely yours.

Watchmaker · 23 Sep 2008

These doors are very easy to fit and should present no problem at all to a competent DIYer. Price? B & Q do a splendid door/frame set, ie upvc double glazed, five point locking etc, for around £150.

masona · 23 Sep 2008

JohnD said:
View media item 4849

Same as my front porch door, a very heavy door from Magnet

I've noticed there's no weather bar on the bottom of your door preventing rain soaking under the door unless you're getting away with it?

masona · 23 Sep 2008

davejuk said:
JohnD said:

have you considered getting a nice hardwood door and frame? Stronger, more secure, more attractive, and less money. Any competent joiner can fit it for you.

Click to expand...

No, I hadn't really considered a wooden door. I was under the impression that plastic was more secure as well as being less maintenance.

Security is my main concern, with insulation being the other major consideration. As long as it doesn't look terrible I'm not too worried about aesthetics.

The main attraction of the plastic doors to me was the locking system where you push the handle up and it puts 5 bolts across into the frame. Is there a better system available, or is this also offered in wooden doors?

Go for a solid wooden door and forget the plastic door! Forget about all these 5 bolts blah blah, I don't need a key to get inside the plastic door.

The insurance companies are not keen on them either and take JohnD advice

JohnD · 23 Sep 2008

masona said:
I've noticed there's no weather bar on the bottom of your door preventing rain soaking under the door unless you're getting away with it?

Not getting away with it

I took it off for re-staining and haven't got round to putting it back

glassgod3 · 25 Sep 2008

Go for a composite door, looks like wood(sort of) no maintenance and you get the multipoint locks, and yes i think composite doors are getting better.upvc panel doors are a cheaper alternative but one kick and the panel is on the floor imo

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Fitting uPVC front and back door

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