Bathroom Stud wall help

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Hello I am replaceing a stud wall in my bathroom which will be completly tiled. I just have a few questions.

1. The walls are only 2.25 inches thick in total. This seems abit thin to me so is this ok? The problem is I can't make the new wall thicker due to very limited space.

2. With the cavity only being 1.25 inches whats the best thing I can fill it with?

3. Do I need to plaster in order to stick tiles up to it or can I just stick the tiles to the plasterboard?

Many thanks in advance

Shaun.
 
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Hello I am replaceing a stud wall in my bathroom which will be completly tiled..
If it’s a wet area use either tile backer board or moisture resistant plaster board & tank it; other areas use moisture resistant PB.
1. The walls are only 2.25 inches thick in total. This seems a bit thin to me so is this ok? The problem is I can't make the new wall thicker due to very limited space.
Er it is somewhat thin to say the least; current regulations require Sound Block plasterboard (tile backer board is just as good) & a minimum 25mm of mineral wool insulation between a room with a w/c & another habitable room; so you can achieve at least that.
2. With the cavity only being 1.25 inches whats the best thing I can fill it with?
See above; I use mineral wool, 50mm cavity bats but you will have to compress them to get them into that space & that reduces the sound absorption; I would advise you use the recommended 25mm mineral wool.
3. Do I need to plaster in order to stick tiles up to it or can I just stick the tiles to the plasterboard?
No but make sure you observe what I said above. In your situation, & as the cavity is so small, I would use a cement tile backer board over the whole stud wall on the bathroom side &, to give you better sound insulation, I would consider “to dot & dab” some Sound Block PB on the other side of the wall (& plaster skimmed) to help with sound absorption.

PS. Don’t tell your LABC your doing this work!
 
you can make the wall as thin as is practical.

we always use 4" x 2" unless required to use a narrower section as this is the most robust and is easily available.

your required size of 2-1/4" is not far off paramount wall size thickness, are you marrying into paramount walling?
 
If it’s a wet area use either tile backer board or moisture resistant plaster board & tank it; other areas use moisture resistant PB.

When you say wet area do you mean like a wet room? I ask as my bathroom will not be a wet room, just a standard bathroom that I fancy having tiles in.

Also can I get cement tile backer board from my local wickes or builders merchants or is it a specialist product?

1 Last question. I was not going to tell LABC about this work anyway but why can't I? I am guessing that if I keep quiet about it I could always just say it was already like it when I moved in?


Also to noseall, What exactly is paramount walling?

Sorry to ask silly questions but I am pretty new to all of this and I don't really know whats what. I really just thought I would build a frame out of wood, fill the cavity and screw plasterboard each side before skimming it over

Thanks for your patience

Shaun.
 
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Oh I don't know if it makes any difference at all but on the other side of this wall there isn't a room, just the landing.

Shaun.
 
When you say wet area do you mean like a wet room? I ask as my bathroom will not be a wet room, just a standard bathroom that I fancy having tiles in.
A wet area would be behind/adjacent to a bath or the wall inside a shower cubicle.

Also can I get cement tile backer board from my local wickes or builders merchants or is it a specialist product?
Yes Wickes sell backer boards or from Topps Tiles or even “on line”. There are several brands & whilst they are all waterproof in the sense they won’t disintegrate when wet some still absorb water. In your case you don’t need to worry about sound insulation aspect (why I suggested it) & it may be better to use moisture resistant plasterboard & tank it using something like this:

http://www.tilefixdirect.com/product/BAWP1SPK.html

Also make sure you use a quality trade flexible adhesive & grout for fixing tiles to stud walls; I use products from the same manufacturer; be warned, the cheap DIY products just don’t work.

Last question. I was not going to tell LABC about this work anyway but why can't I?
Your OP said you were replacing a stud wall; if it’s an existing bath room then you don’t have to notify but the new wall should comply with current regulations. If you’re constructing a new bathroom with new soil connections & electrics you should notify as there are strict regulations covering both aspects. If it’s new building work, it is notifyable; if you cannot produce the required certificates to say the work complies with Building Regulations when you come to sell up you could have problems with your sale. What exactly are you doing?
I am guessing that if I keep quiet about it I could always just say it was already like it when I moved in?
Ahh that old chestnut; well you may get away with it & you may not! Surveyors aren’t stupid & if your buyer’s surveyor has any doubt about when any work was done or if it doesn’t comply with BR’s they won’t just accept your word for it; the onus is not on them to prove they are right, it’s on you to prove otherwise. If they have any doubt they will simply advise your buyer’s solicitor who in turn notifies the lender who won’t advance the cash until they are satisfied work complies with BR’s in force at the time it was done.
Also to noseall, What exactly is paramount walling?
“Paramount Walling” was a lightweight partition wall construction system used some years ago; now defunct I believe. Couldn’t find any information but it doesn’t appear relevant to what you’re doing.
Sorry to ask silly questions but I am pretty new to all of this and I don't really know whats what. I really just thought I would build a frame out of wood, fill the cavity and screw plasterboard each side before skimming it over
No worries, it’s why this forum is here & your basically correct; when building a stud wall it’s usual to use 4 x 2” as this makes the wall stronger, less liable to transmit sound &, if there is a door in it, you can use a standard door casing. Follow this link to a guide;
http://www.ultimatehandyman.co.uk/partition_wall.htm

Oh I don't know if it makes any difference at all but on the other side of this wall there isn't a room, just the landing.
A landing is not a habitable room so sound insulation isn’t required by regulations, it would be at your discretion.
 
Richard C, thank you for your time and advice. Hopefully providing Wickes has everything in stock (not holding my breath) I will get this finished saturday.

Once I have put the board up I don't plan to tile for a few weeks. Will this be a problem or should I seal it somehow? (was originaly nthinking of pva).

I am still not sure about the whole "tanking" aspect of it all so I was just going to see what Wickes and Jewsons had.

Many thanks again for your help.

Shaun.

P.S There is no real hurry for the bathroom side of things. But on the hallway side I have a carpet being fitted very soon so I need that made good this week really.
 
You don't need to seal it; it shouldn't be a problem. Depending on what you use (PB or backer board) will dictate what you do as far as tanking goes; DO NOT use PVA on any surface you’re going to tile.
 
Hello again, I just wanted to clear a few things up before i started this job :)

1 thing worth noting again is that the wall I am covering is just the back wall to the bath (the bit you rest your head on in the tub :) )

Right, If I can get tile backer board I guess I dont need to "tank" it at all? Where as If i get moisture resistant board then I have to tank it and plaster?

Again if I use tile backer board do I have to tape up the gaps?

I just wanted to clarify this as the tanking kit you linked RichardC looks great but pretty expensive and my house funds are running low :). So I am looking at the easiest/cheapest way of doing this. Also I don't mind having to skim it over as its good pracitse for me ;)

Many thanks again
 
Right, If I can get tile backer board I guess I dont need to "tank" it at all? Where as If i get moisture resistant board then I have to tank it and plaster?
You don’t have to plaster moisture resistant PB if your covering it with tiles, just tank it & tile. I use tile backer board in wet areas but I don’t tank it. Some would disagree especially if fitting to timber stud work as most tile backer boards will still absorb moisture as will waterproof adhesive & grout (except epoxy), they are only “waterproof” in the sense they won’t disintegrate if the get damp. I do, however, think it would take a really serious problem with the adhesive & grout before water gets that far back & providing you use quality products, it shouldn’t be a problem in a domestic environment.

Again if I use tile backer board do I have to tape up the gaps?

I tape the gaps using fibre glass reinforcing tape &, just before I tile, work some tile cement well into the tape mesh, then apply the adhesive & comb as normal before laying the tiles. Make sure the tile line overlaps & doesn't coincide with any joint between the boards.

I just wanted to clarify this as the tanking kit you linked RichardC looks great but pretty expensive and my house funds are running low :).
You really only want to do this job once; yes BAL products are expensive but I honestly won’t use anything else. You really do get what you pay with this stuff &, although it appears expensive compared to the budget DIY shed offerings, it’s not worth the problems cheap materials can cause; a quick search through the archive will throw up numerous examples. Make sure you use flexibe adhesive & grout on the stud wall.

So I am looking at the easiest/cheapest way of doing this. Also I don't mind having to skim it over as its good pracitse for me ;)
Presumably the wall behind the bath is conventional block with plaster & OK? Even skimming plasterboard won’t make more resilient to damp in a wet area, if you want to use PB then just tank it & tile. For the stud wall I would use a tile backer board (I use Aquapanel) & tile directly onto that.
 
Presumably the wall behind the bath is conventional block with plaster & OK? .

The wall looks like a stud wall with standard plasterboard, skim and then tiled and it seems ok. I am guessing the condensation is the main problem causer?

I don't want to risk it anyway though so thank you again for your advice. Fingers crossed I find some tile backer board on saturday :)

Shaun.
 

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