Wooden front door - what would you look for?
- Thread starter sh22
- Start date
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you are obviously talking about a special-order, hand-made door, possibly with frame.
Tell us what is unusual about it.
That's what they thought and asked for my expert wisdom, which I don't have hence asking the DIY-notters.
I'm not in the market for fancy stable doors and frankly their 1970's two bed terrace in a cul-de-sac doesn't warrant anything better than UPVC.
But they seem to want to recreate a rural idyll. (Whatever!).
I'm not in the market for fancy stable doors and frankly their 1970's two bed terrace in a cul-de-sac doesn't warrant anything better than UPVC.
But they seem to want to recreate a rural idyll. (Whatever!).
you can get a hardwood front door in standard sizes (about 32" width) readymade in fair quality for a few hundred pounds. It is worth getting a new frame unles the old one is good quality and condition.
Look for mortice and tenon joints; solid hardwood (not veneer on laminated rubbish core). The DIY sheds are not usually good quality. If you pick up a good door you will find it hard work as they are very heavy.
the joinery manufacturers websites will have a selection.
A stable door is quite handy if you have small children in the house as you can stop them getting to the road but have the top open for fresh air, chatting to neighbours etc. Real stables to not have a any glazing, open out, and are usually LB&F.
My front foor (not stable) is h/w M&T, I went for thick timber not the thin glazing bars as IMMO they are easier to break in. If your friends are spending a wedge of money they might consider laminated glass for any glazing as well, it is much more secure.
There may be a local maker near you as well. Look up "joinery" or "joiners" if they want it fitted and ask the joiner for a recommendation. Include locks, bolts, brass hinges in the price. DIY hanging is slow and hard unless you are skilled. Paint or treat before fitting, at least an undercoat, as some parts are very difficult to do after (it will want refinishing afterwards due to scratches but ask the joiner if you can paint the bottom at least (this is impossible to treat after fitting) without him cutting it off
Look for mortice and tenon joints; solid hardwood (not veneer on laminated rubbish core). The DIY sheds are not usually good quality. If you pick up a good door you will find it hard work as they are very heavy.
the joinery manufacturers websites will have a selection.
A stable door is quite handy if you have small children in the house as you can stop them getting to the road but have the top open for fresh air, chatting to neighbours etc. Real stables to not have a any glazing, open out, and are usually LB&F.
My front foor (not stable) is h/w M&T, I went for thick timber not the thin glazing bars as IMMO they are easier to break in. If your friends are spending a wedge of money they might consider laminated glass for any glazing as well, it is much more secure.
There may be a local maker near you as well. Look up "joinery" or "joiners" if they want it fitted and ask the joiner for a recommendation. Include locks, bolts, brass hinges in the price. DIY hanging is slow and hard unless you are skilled. Paint or treat before fitting, at least an undercoat, as some parts are very difficult to do after (it will want refinishing afterwards due to scratches but ask the joiner if you can paint the bottom at least (this is impossible to treat after fitting) without him cutting it off
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My pennies worth....
I had an oak front door, with similarly designed garage doors, complete with frames and draughtproofing, but unfitted and unfinished. £1300 plus the dreaded. (My own design and a non standard size).
Took weeks to treat, trim, finish and fit. Hardware cost over £100. And you get the normal expansion/contraction problems with timber (not too bad being oak though).
Also had UPVC french doors. Cost £600, delivered, fitted and sealed in an afternoon.
Of course you could always get "wood effect" upvc - "best" of both worlds.
I do love timber, but it really can be a hassle.
I had an oak front door, with similarly designed garage doors, complete with frames and draughtproofing, but unfitted and unfinished. £1300 plus the dreaded. (My own design and a non standard size).
Took weeks to treat, trim, finish and fit. Hardware cost over £100. And you get the normal expansion/contraction problems with timber (not too bad being oak though).
Also had UPVC french doors. Cost £600, delivered, fitted and sealed in an afternoon.
Of course you could always get "wood effect" upvc - "best" of both worlds.
I do love timber, but it really can be a hassle.
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