Trianco EuroStar 70-90 Oil Boiler cutting in and out

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My Trianco EuroStar 70-90 oil boiler keeps cutting in and out. The oil burner keeps running and after approx 8 secs the igniter re-establishes the flame. It has a new nozzle and the oil pipe is clear. I have cleaned the photoresistor. The air setting is 7, could it be lack of oxygen? It has worked OK for two years at this setting. Any suggestions are most welcome.
 
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A good service, would sort the problem and save you a fortune on wasted oil.

You need specialist kit to set them up properly.
 
A good service, would sort the problem and save you a fortune on wasted oil.

You need specialist kit to set them up properly.

Many thanks for your prompt reply. I agree, a good service may sort out the problem, my problem is that as a pensioner, I am unable to afford the high cost of a service unless I really have to. Can I hire the kit to monitor the flue gas?
 
You would more than save the expense over the winter.

It really is specialist kit, and you must know how to use it as well.

Should be well under a £100, unless it needs parts.

Ask your oil supplier, for a price.
 
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Is it a Balanced Flue eurostar? (I'll bet that it is!!!)
The Flue seals on the inner flue duct are a real pain on the eurostar, Get your Engineer to remove the flue assembly and reaseal the joints ;)
 
Is it a Balanced Flue eurostar? (I'll bet that it is!!!)
The Flue seals on the inner flue duct are a real pain on the eurostar, Get your Engineer to remove the flue assembly and reaseal the joints ;)
Thanks Boilerman2. Yes it is balanced flue and I like your suggestion. To test your theory all I need do is to disconnect the air input hose to the burner so that it draws air from atmosphere and not through the flue. I'll try it tomorrow. Many thanks
 
You would more than save the expense over the winter.

It really is specialist kit, and you must know how to use it as well.

Should be well under a £100, unless it needs parts.

Ask your oil supplier, for a price.

Thanks "doitall" I'll try Boilerman2's suggestion first and if that does not work I'll do as you say and get a quote.
 
I don't remeber saying run the boiler with the snorkel tube disconnected!!!!

I will agree that this is a good way to prove that the flue seal are leaking, BUT IT IS NOT A PERMANENT REPAIR!!

With the snorkel removed the boiler will draw air from the room in which it is installed, and will need permanet ventilation which opens a whole can of worms.

The Boiler should be repair correctly so that it work with the snorkel properly fixed!

please do not twist the advice I have given! the advice about a Service by a oil Engineer is The Best possible advice :eek: :eek: :eek:
 
I don't remeber saying run the boiler with the snorkel tube disconnected!!!!

I will agree that this is a good way to prove that the flue seal are leaking, BUT IT IS NOT A PERMANENT REPAIR!!

With the snorkel removed the boiler will draw air from the room in which it is installed, and will need permanet ventilation which opens a whole can of worms.

The Boiler should be repair correctly so that it work with the snorkel properly fixed!

please do not twist the advice I have given! the advice about a Service by a oil Engineer is The Best possible advice :eek: :eek: :eek:

Sorry for the misunderstanding but I did not intend it to be a permenent solution just a short test. I will replace the snorkel after the test and call in a Service Engineer. My boiler is in a vented boiler house and not in the house.
 
With the snorkel removed the boiler will draw air from the room in which it is installed, and will need permanet ventilation which opens a whole can of worms.

According to regulations, yes, but let's be practical about it. Many boilers run in houses where they get their air from inside the house, and there is no dedicated air supply and there is no measurable problem. The hole in the air shutter is considerably less than 1/2 sq in. Just disconnecting the hose is not too good if you leave the end open as exhaust will be delivered to the room. Stuff something up it.

please do not twist the advice I have given! the advice about a Service by a oil Engineer is The Best possible advice :eek: :eek: :eek:

A service will not fix the problem, many technicians won't even be able to identify what the problem is. It will cost a good bit more than a service cost to get the flue sorted.

Bore a 4" hole through the wall, if your house is draught proofed, and fit a grill over the hole.
 
The boiler needs to be working properly to be serviced, it needs to be repaired 1st then serviced, there's no getting around having to spend the money ;)
 
That common conversation

Punter "Hello, could you please come and service my boiler asap please"

Me "why does it need servicing asap?"

Punter "because it it isnt working, but i think a service will fix it"

:rolleyes:
 
The boiler needs to be working properly to be serviced, it needs to be repaired 1st then serviced, there's no getting around having to spend the money ;)

I have disconnected the snorkel from the flue and it is currently drawing air directly from the boiler house. So far the boiler has run without cutting in and out. I am leaving it another 24 hours in order to be really certain that we have identified the problem.

I have already spoken to the person who installed the boiler about the need to re-seal the joints in the balanced flue and if the test continues to be successful he will come and dismantle the flue and re-seal the joints.

I would like to thank everybody for their helpful advice and suggestions. Without your help I would still be at a loss as to the cause of the problem. Once again many thanks for your help.
 

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