Boiler troubleshooting - where to draw the line

lucozadenrg

HI, and apologies in advance if I get it wrong with my first post. I have checked your wiki and the FAQ and links as well as many other posts. My simple question is where is the line drawn on what I can and can do myself to my boiler? I should add that I use a healthy does of common sense so my example is:
1) I have an intermittent fault on a glow worm Ultimate 30FF (gets as far as running fan, sometimes spark, 'clonk' from gas valve, spark, pilot and ignition or sometimes just flue fan runs forever with no attempt at ignition)
2) When it fails next I am more than comfortable (I am an Electrical and Electronic Engineer) to make the electrical checks in the fault finding chart.
3) SHould it point to PCB failure I am also more than capable to change the PCB this does not necessarily make me a legally 'competent' person to do though however.

It would be great to understand if anyone knows the position for the above(also how common PCB failure is in this type of boiler - its about 8 years old)

My broad view is that anything that does not directly touch or interfere with the gas or exhaust would be OK but I have no real basis for this. (If in this example I screwed up the PCB replacement then the boiler would just not work.

As a further example if the fault finding pointed to a faulty air pressure switch or a faulty soleniod then whilst I am still comfortable I could replace these with ease, since they directly affect either the gas or exhaust then I would need a Gas Safe certified person to make these changes.

Would be great to understand where the line is drawn.

thanks L

kirkgas · Posted: Sat Oct 31, 2009 6:28 pm Post Subject:

your fault is likely to be air pressure switch related, but that is neither here nor there, your comments about changing a pcb as it isnt gas related, could be wrong (dont know this exact boiler) but sometimes when a board is changed the gas rate needs to checked/reset by a potentiometer (dodgy spelling), however the air pressure switch merely confirms enough air is passing through the fan (via a venturi to the pressure switch) to remove products of combustion to outside.
i dont know you so dont wish to offend by saying please ensure you are fully aware of what you intend to work on to ensure you and yours are ok

bengasman · Posted: Sat Oct 31, 2009 7:47 pm Post Subject:

In addition to Kirk's comments, there isn't really a way to test the pcb unless you have an electronic test lab, and all the relevant data of the pcb.

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jt1 · Posted: Sat Oct 31, 2009 8:25 pm Post Subject:

Would agree, while you sound as if you are competant ,if you have to take the cover off the boiler you should be registered.Lost count of the amount of times i have been called to boilers after someone else has had a go and messed up!!.Thankfully things have changed over here now.

lucozadenrg · Posted: Sun Nov 01, 2009 4:20 am Post Subject:

thanks guys. bizarely as soon as I test the volatge between air pressure switch and neutral the boiler fires into life so i guess the switch or pcb is done. just need to find someone who isnt 'too busy' to come and sort it for me!

WDIK · Posted: Sun Nov 01, 2009 7:06 am Post Subject:

its an aps problem, but a good dose of common sense is worthless compared to knowing what your doing

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kevplumb · Posted: Sun Nov 01, 2009 8:26 am Post Subject:

don't mention testing it with a meter the mods don't like it

not that its s** all to do with them

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lucozadenrg · Posted: Sun Nov 01, 2009 1:25 pm Post Subject:

cool thanks to all for advice and help, will keep trying and hope I can get someone to take a look this week!

Agile · Posted: Sun Nov 01, 2009 2:07 pm Post Subject:

As boilers go this is a very simple one and the fault a typical simple fault which most boiler engineers would be able to manage.

The only problem you could have is finding someone competent who is not going to overcharge you. Most are not into ripping anyone off but a very few might.

Tony

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bengasman · Posted: Sun Nov 01, 2009 2:58 pm Post Subject:

You could post the job on here with a rough indication of your area; at least you would have a fair idea of the kind of guy that is coming.
I would expect this job to cost less than £430.

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lucozadenrg · Posted: Sun Nov 01, 2009 3:26 pm Post Subject:

thanks again for all the help, i'll have one more go with someone local (recommendation from neighbour, with all the necessary credentials and has recently sorted out the same boiler in the neighbour's house) and then post back here if no luck. Maybe I have been unlucky and it is just a really busy couple of weeks!

Agile · Posted: Sun Nov 01, 2009 3:31 pm Post Subject:

Most boiler engineers aim to visit the same or next day if a boiler is not working.

I would expect the cost to be less than £99 apart from parking. congestion charges etc!.

But there is no substitute for being in front of the boiler to diagnose faults!

Tony

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bengasman · Posted: Sun Nov 01, 2009 3:32 pm Post Subject:

Lucky you, quite handy if you can use the neighbours to testdrive your plumber.

By the way, when I mentioned below £430, that was an understatement.

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