Joined: 27 Oct 2004 Posts: 57 Location: United Kingdom Thanked: 0 times
Posted: Tue Nov 03, 2009 8:50 pm Post Subject:
Tiled shelf leaking
Our house came with this tiled box within a shower.
The box was made of plaster board and eventually water got in and it swelled and let more water through etc... So I rebuilt the box in exterior ply and re-tiled it. Two years later and the same thing has happened again.
I guess normal grouting isn't perfectly waterproof. How should I go about it this time? (I will use edge beading this time!)[/img]
Joined: 22 Aug 2009 Posts: 610 Location: Surrey, United Kingdom Thanked: 51 times
Posted: Wed Nov 04, 2009 10:37 am Post Subject:
The walls need tanking, I would clad in plasterboard then use a tanking membrane ontop, the main issue here is the horizontal section, how about using a cut to size stone worktop which slightly overhangs the vertical tiling, it would make it a lot easier and cleaner.
Joined: 06 Oct 2009 Posts: 113 Location: Glasgow, United Kingdom Thanked: 6 times
Posted: Wed Nov 04, 2009 7:15 pm Post Subject:
tile trim across the top will just let water sit...try a bullnose tile..
EPOXY grout is WATERPROOF...
could u not just stripe the box away an tile wall..if not have the top off the box falling foward (angle down) for water to run off.
tile trim across the top will just let water sit...try a bullnose tile..
EPOXY grout is WATERPROOF...
could u not just stripe the box away an tile wall..if not have the top off the box falling foward (angle down) for water to run off.
now whose being technical, i dont think epoxy grout is the way to go for a novice mate
you know the score
tile trim across the top will just let water sit...try a bullnose tile..
EPOXY grout is WATERPROOF...
could u not just stripe the box away an tile wall..if not have the top off the box falling foward (angle down) for water to run off.
now whose being technical, i dont think epoxy grout is the way to go for a novice mate
you know the score
thats what apprentices are for lol..and marigolds....
had a guy many moons ago all his joint swelt up and his b***s turns out he was allergic to the stuff...the lucky b*****d...
Joined: 21 Feb 2008 Posts: 68 Location: Cardiff, United Kingdom Thanked: 3 times
Posted: Thu Nov 05, 2009 12:15 am Post Subject:
I am surprised the tilers didn't ask this - is the box sturdy enough? How tick is the ply you used and what is the distance between the batons to which the ply is screwed? What centres did you screw? If the base is too flexible, whatever you use wouldn't last long.
And I would imagine you have to use flexible adhesive and grout - same requirements as for floor tiling.
Another option in my opinion is to use cement-sand mixture instead of adhesive. Long ago we tiled an old laminate kitchen worktop this way and had no problems (lived there for 10 years).
I am surprised the tilers didn't ask this - is the box sturdy enough? How tick is the ply you used and what is the distance between the batons to which the ply is screwed? What centres did you screw? If the base is too flexible, whatever you use wouldn't last long.
And I would imagine you have to use flexible adhesive and grout - same requirements as for floor tiling.
Another option in my opinion is to use cement-sand mixture instead of adhesive. Long ago we tiled an old laminate kitchen worktop this way and had no problems (lived there for 10 years).
dont think its the sub structure.going by the pics it doesnt look a big area.
it either grout.addy or a hairline crack in tile or silicone seal.
op as stated it lasts for about 2yrs so my monies on one of the above ere mate i may be wrong tho.
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