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Tiling onto chipboard

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acrabbe

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PostPosted: Fri Nov 06, 2009 7:52 pm    Post Subject:
Tiling onto chipboard
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Dear All.

I hoping for your professional advice on building and tiling the surround for my new bath.



I want to fit boarding to the framework I've built around my new bath and tile up and over it to produce the effect that the bath is 'dropped' into the surround... you get the idea.

My question is this:-

Can I tile directly onto a chipboard surround if I first PVA seal it.

My prefered option is to use 18mm chipboard for side strength.

I have considered using 10mm chipboard with extra vertical battens behind for added strength.

I've also considerd boarding with plain 10mm plasterboard, possibly backed with 10mm chipboard, but I'm worried about water getting into it, even though it shouldn't if I seal it properly after tiling.

Am I on completely the wrong track here or would you be using something completely different or could I go ahead with my prefered option of 18mm chipboard?

Also, if the chipboard route is ok, can I use regular wall tile adhesive or is there something else I should be using?

I'm very much on a budget, so Im having to make the best of the resources to hand.

Many Thanks.
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bathstyle

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PostPosted: Fri Nov 06, 2009 8:45 pm    Post Subject:
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Don't use any type of timber here, you should be using a tile backer board, like Aquapanel.

Make sure you fix another piece of timber near the tap end too.

You won't have much of a shelf on your Bath surround there, normally it is tiled so that the finished tiled surface sits slightly recessed from the Bath edge....or you constrct a frame with a proper shelf, yours is inbetween the two.
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Richard C

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PostPosted: Fri Nov 06, 2009 8:54 pm    Post Subject:
Re: Tiling onto chipboard
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acrabbe wrote:

Can I tile directly onto a chipboard surround

Not if you want it to last.
acrabbe wrote:

if I first PVA seal it.

No; conventional PVA won’t seal against water, its water soluble but will probably last longer than a chipboard bath surround although that will certainly last longer than a plasterboard one. Your on completely the wrong track here; to stand any chance of your idea working, use tile backer boards on a supporting frame but you must use a decent trade flexible adhesive & grout (not cheap) & don’t’ lean on it when getting in & out of the bath because it won’t stand much flexing before it cracks. It’s possible to do it but (comparatively) it won’t be the cheap option as you seem to think it is.

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jctilingservices

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PostPosted: Fri Nov 06, 2009 9:22 pm    Post Subject:
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not chipboard, but you CAN use 19 mm marine ply.
Definately NO PVA
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Richard C

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PostPosted: Fri Nov 06, 2009 11:02 pm    Post Subject:
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jctilingservices wrote:
not chipboard, but you CAN use 19 mm marine ply.

Marine ply is expensive & totally unnecessary. WBP ply is made using the same grade of waterproof adhesive, it’s only the quality of the face veneers which is different; unimportant here. The problem with using even waterproof ply is that timber will expand if it gets damp; “odds on” for a bath panel I would think icon_lol.gif . Unless really well sealed the back veneers will absorb moisture & expand whilst the front veneers won't causing the panel to warp; the result will be cracked adhesive & grout & the tiles will eventually fall off.

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tictic

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PostPosted: Sat Nov 07, 2009 12:30 am    Post Subject:
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with my reading of the op.
u want the bath "dropped" in ..like a sink in a worktop??
if so..
1. u will want ur bath at least 2/3inch from the edge of tiles.
2.screw 1x1 onto exsisting frame looks like 4x2?... maybe crossmember exsiting?
3.screw 6 or 12mm backerboards onto frame.
4.then tile away icon_lol.gif
as bathstlye has said tho timber down wall at the taps. icon_wink.gif
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acrabbe

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PostPosted: Sat Nov 07, 2009 8:50 am    Post Subject:
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Dear All,

Yes, I will be fitting the vertical pieces up by the taps, down the wall this morning. The photo taken whilst 'work in progress'.

And yes, I've also been considering adding the pieces to the sides of the frame too. Thank you for the reassurance.

Any suggestions on the appropriate of type adhesive/grout, or will good quality ones from branded manufacturer be fine.

Many thanks.
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jctilingservices

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PostPosted: Sat Nov 07, 2009 2:28 pm    Post Subject:
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flexible adhesive and flexible grout mate
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jctilingservices

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PostPosted: Sat Nov 07, 2009 3:00 pm    Post Subject:
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Richard C wrote:
jctilingservices wrote:
not chipboard, but you CAN use 19 mm marine ply.

Marine ply is expensive & totally unnecessary. & the tiles will eventually fall off.


I get my marine ply from a friend in the wood yard at the same price i pay for normal WBP ply mate, sorry i forgot people have to pay full whack.
you are totally INCORRECT about the tiles eventually falling off, unless you are talking about in years to come. NOT if they are fixed correctly and the bath surround is well braced.

i have actually done this type of bath about 4 yrs ago, using 12mm wbp ply and 12mm plasterboard, this was done for my mother and its still as good today as it was when first done mate,





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bathstyle

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PostPosted: Sat Nov 07, 2009 8:55 pm    Post Subject:
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Bathrooms shouldn't be constructed like that anymore. I agree, Marine Ply is unnecessary. Ply is a bad idea altogether, as I mentioned earlier, tile backer board and an access panel with Schluter Rema.

Plasterboard? not ideal
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jctilingservices

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PostPosted: Sun Nov 08, 2009 11:08 am    Post Subject:
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bathstyle wrote:
Bathrooms shouldn't be constructed like that anymore.


what do you mean by that ?
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bathstyle

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PostPosted: Sun Nov 08, 2009 12:28 pm    Post Subject:
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Plasterboard and no tanking round the Bath.
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jctilingservices

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PostPosted: Sun Nov 08, 2009 1:22 pm    Post Subject:
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bathstyle wrote:
Plasterboard and no tanking round the Bath.


Like i said, that bathroom was done 4 yrs ago, feb 05, its still as good as when first done, no problems whatsoever with tiles coming loose, grout lines breaking up, water ingress.
Unfortunately you are assuming it was not tanked, however it was with a system called "Latex Expel".It was new on the market at the time, and if i remember correctly it was made by Sovereign, You actually applied it to your walls 1/2 hr before tiling, it was applied with a plasterers trowel,left for 20 mins, then it was primed and left for 10 min.Then it was ready to be tiled, finally it was finished off with "epoxy grout". Which was my choice of grout to use seeing as its waterproof.
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bathstyle

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PostPosted: Sun Nov 08, 2009 7:13 pm    Post Subject:
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I see your tanking kit is 'plasterboard colour' icon_lol.gif
icon_wink.gif

Tell me, why the slither? It might have been avoided if you didn't install the unnecessary ledge on the Bath Panel.

Give me a shout if you want a tip on getting the finished panel recessed slightly
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Richard C

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PostPosted: Mon Nov 09, 2009 10:21 am    Post Subject:
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jctilingservices wrote:

you are totally INCORRECT about the tiles eventually falling off, unless you are talking about in years to come. NOT if they are fixed correctly and the bath surround is well braced.

i have actually done this type of bath about 4 yrs ago, using 12mm wbp ply and 12mm plasterboard, this was done for my mother and its still as good today as it was when first done mate,


Sorry I disagree & you missed a bit off; what I said was that if the back of the PLY is not SEALED it will absorb moisture, expand & curl towards the front & even the most expensive adhesive/grout will struggle to cope with that; in all probability it will crack.

BAL even recommends sealing the underside of ply floors before they are laid so there is no chance of the moisture being absorbed through the back & curling the floor. Maybe a slight overkill on the floor but belt & braces, it depends on local circumstances & how damp the ambient environment is.

As far as I'm concerned PB has no place anywhere around a bath or shower unless it’s tanked & if that PB panel has lasted 4 years then you’ve been extreamly lucky, is the bath acrually used icon_lol.gif
Ply is also ill advised for the above reason & it's just not worth the risk, tile backer board every time.

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