drain F+e tank

andrew17 · Posted: Tue Jan 12, 2010 9:11 pm

I want to add some inhibitor to the f+e . If i tie up the ballvalve do I need to syphon the water in it or bail it out till almost empty then add inhibitor , then release ball valve or ? Basically how do i empty it enough that the inhibitor actually gets in the system rather than sits in the tank. I presume you cant just top up the f+e tank and the inhibitor gets in the system , or does it ? thank you for help

electronicsuk · Posted: Tue Jan 12, 2010 9:18 pm

andrew17 wrote:

I want to add some inhibitor to the f+e . If i tie up the ballvalve do I need to syphon the water in it or bail it out till almost empty then add inhibitor , then release ball valve or ? Basically how do i empty it enough that the inhibitor actually gets in the system rather than sits in the tank. I presume you cant just top up the f+e tank and the inhibitor gets in the system , or does it ? thank you for help

As you say, you need to empty enough water from the system such that the header tank is empty (i.e. water level below that of the outlet) and then some more on top of that to drain the feed pipe and allow room for the inhibitor to enter the system. Practically, if you were to drain the system down to the point where the water level in your upstairs rads is below the bleed valves, you'd have removed more than enough.

andrew17 · Posted: Tue Jan 12, 2010 9:22 pm

thank you but that sounds complicated to me re rads . Is there an easy way for a real novice ? thanks

electronicsuk · Posted: Tue Jan 12, 2010 9:26 pm

andrew17 wrote:

thank you but that sounds complicated to me re rads . Is there an easy way for a real novice ? thanks

Drain down the header tank until it reaches minimum level, keeping an eye on the time taken to do so, and then continue draining for the about the same time again? It really isn't the end of the world if you drain too much, and it's better than it being too little and the inhibitor not getting into the system. Of course, the less water drained then the lower the chances of trouble with airlocks and the like.

AfterburN003 · Posted: Tue Jan 12, 2010 9:29 pm

You could switch off one radiator (or towel rail is easier if u have one) by turning the radiator valves off on both sides. Then undo one of the top blanks on the radiator (or towel rail). Then syphon some of the water out of the radiator and pour in your inhibitor using a funnel. Tighten blanking nut back up and re-open both your radiator valves. Bleed radiator when you are finished. This may sound complicated but it is really simple and if u have a combi boiler it is almost the only way to do it.

electronicsuk · Posted: Tue Jan 12, 2010 9:30 pm

AfterburN003 wrote:

You could switch off one radiator (or towel rail is easier if u have one) by turning the radiator valves off on both sides.

Perhaps worth using a decorators cap on the TRV in this weather, is you decide to go that route!

andrew17 · Posted: Tue Jan 12, 2010 9:37 pm

thank you guys, i think one of you answered me earlier but i needed more detail as such. When you say drain down , sorry to BE thick where does the water go or do I remove it with a cup or something into a bucket or when I tie up the ball valve the water drains away ? sorry i aint no plumber but do want to get this inhibitor in the ststem and dont fancy the aerosol and other methods as i dont want to mess with the rads .thanks

AfterburN003 · Posted: Tue Jan 12, 2010 9:38 pm

or a five pence piece and tap washer

andrew17 · Posted: Tue Jan 12, 2010 9:42 pm

ha ha yes !

Ive just had a plumber in to replace a pump . He drained most of the rads and put no sentinel in. he reconed there was enough in it but Im not so sure. If 3/4 of the rads were drained how can there be enough sentinel for the whole system ? Hence me having to put it in or i get him back and he charges 50 quid to do it

electronicsuk · Posted: Tue Jan 12, 2010 9:42 pm

You need to tie up the valve or isolate the incoming water to the valve, whichever is easier, and then open up a drain cock somewhere on the CH system (hopefully there will be one) to release water from the system. Failing that, you may have to loosen off a valve from one of the rads and slowly drain off into a tray or bucket.

AfterburN003 · Posted: Tue Jan 12, 2010 9:42 pm

Look for a drain valve around the outside of your house. Open it up with a spanner. Let it run for 60 seconds and shut it off. Check header tank to see if it has emptied. If it has pour in yourinhibitor and untie the ballcock and in theory that should be it.

PS...dont fully unscrew the drain valve.

andrew17 · Posted: Tue Jan 12, 2010 9:48 pm

Its easy for you lot but I cannot find a drain valve and dont want to fiddle with water , its dangerous , it goes everywhere. Mathew thanks for the tips and afterburner , will try what you suggest, maybe the rads idea is the easiest

Axel · Posted: Tue Jan 12, 2010 9:50 pm

Hmm. Putting in inhibitor is part of the job. Perhaps he will argue that he charged you less for spending less time by not doing this, but it's not something a 2nd callout fee should be paid for. The cost of the inhibitor is fair enough, but he should have put it i at the time for the reason that you give.

AfterburN003 · Posted: Tue Jan 12, 2010 9:51 pm

If you take your time you will manage the radiator solution no problem. If you cannot find the drain valve it is your only option.

andrew17 · Posted: Tue Jan 12, 2010 10:08 pm

Ive seen they make a concentrated form you put in via the rad bleed valve, so similar to what one of you mentioned. To do that I would turn both valves off -lockshield and other one ? and bleed the rad as such but how do you get enough water out to add in the concentrate ? sorryy to sound thick , but I am !
The plumber should have added some but he probably didnt have any in the van so just said there was enough in it and took the money ! He wasnt cheap 40 an hour !