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hard wiring - oven / induction hob-what load can it handle?


 
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jonic0

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Location: Lancashire,
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PostPosted: Tue Mar 02, 2010 10:16 pm Reply with quote

I currently have my double oven (load wattage 4120W - 4900W) hard wired into to wall box (with red oven off/on isolation switch) the hard wiring is on a seperate main to fuse box for trip switch. I have a gas hob, which i am just about to exchanged for an induction hob (max 7200W). my question is would the hard wiring take the full combined wattage (12100W)? would it recommended to put in a junction box in to take the oven and hob wiring to join to the hard wiring. what size junction box would i need? or put plugs onto both appliances and make hard wired double socket? again what socket box would be needed? appreciate any advice.
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flameport

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PostPosted: Tue Mar 02, 2010 10:27 pm Reply with quote

Both appliances will need to be wired to a suitable connection plate in the same way the oven currently is.
Double outlets can be obtained which replace the single one.

Double outlet cooker plate
Double outlet cooker plate


You cannot use a plug/socket arrangement.

What rating is the fuse/circuit breaker?
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jonic0 (2 Mar 2010)
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jonic0

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PostPosted: Tue Mar 02, 2010 10:37 pm Reply with quote

the set up currently is that the hard wire exits from wall and is directley connected to the connector at the rear of the oven (as you would when wiring a plug, attatched by screws E.N.L.)
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flameport

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PostPosted: Tue Mar 02, 2010 10:47 pm Reply with quote

The existing cable would go into the top of the double plate as shown, and two new cables from the bottom of the connector plate to each appliance.

The connector plate needs to be fixed to the wall behind the oven.
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jonic0 (2 Mar 2010)
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jonic0

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PostPosted: Tue Mar 02, 2010 11:01 pm Reply with quote

i do appreciate your time on this flameport, i have looked on the fuse box, as i said seperate trip swith but does not provide any further maximum the whole unit can handle is 100A. i have been able to ascertain the hard wire is approx 12mm wide grey wire containing 6mm live / 6mm neutral and earth. would this carry the 12100W? thanks also for the picture of the connector.
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EdwardCurrent

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PostPosted: Tue Mar 02, 2010 11:02 pm Reply with quote

Hello Jonic0.
Have you any idea what the cable size is, from the consumer unit to the cooker isolator and connection plate ?
And the mcb rating that 'FP' asked ?

Cheers
Ed.
icon_rolleyes.gif Whoops. (bit late again icon_redface.gif )
You have 're-wireable' type fuses ? If so what colour is the 'carrier-holder', does it have any colour markings or writing ? It could have a fuse in it .
Does the cooker isolator have a socket outlet incorporated ? We can do some diversity calcs if we have this info. Length of run and installation method (in insulation, clipped surface, in trunking etc) would be a bonus. icon_wink.gif .
Ed.
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jonic0 (2 Mar 2010)
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jonic0

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PostPosted: Tue Mar 02, 2010 11:20 pm Reply with quote

if it helps the house is only 10 years old, the fuse box is hager on the fuse for the oven it cannot be removed unless i start to switch the whole unit off get the key and open it up. it says on fuse box for the oven B32 230v-400v it has a further seperate mcb/rcd on the unit, and a further main on/off switch.
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jonic0

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PostPosted: Tue Mar 02, 2010 11:22 pm Reply with quote

Does the cooker isolator have a socket outlet incorporated ?

yes.
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EdwardCurrent

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PostPosted: Tue Mar 02, 2010 11:32 pm Reply with quote

Hello.
Diversity calcs for your 'cookers' come out at @19A & @17A icon_sad.gif .
Thats if you ditched the isolator for one without a socket, which pushes it up to 41A.
Sorry, not looking good.
Ed.
Much of a job to run a new 10mm ? icon_eek.gif
Ed.
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jonic0 (2 Mar 2010)
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jonic0

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PostPosted: Tue Mar 02, 2010 11:39 pm Reply with quote

i take it you mean i would have to run a new cable from the fuse box to the oven / hob to allow for the use of both units?
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EdwardCurrent

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PostPosted: Tue Mar 02, 2010 11:42 pm Reply with quote

Yes. In my opinion, but best wait for confirmation from others to be sure.

Regards
Ed.
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ban-all-sheds

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PostPosted: Wed Mar 03, 2010 4:05 pm Reply with quote

EdwardCurrent wrote:
Diversity calcs for your 'cookers' come out at @19A & @17A icon_sad.gif

Why are you doing each one individually?

If I had a separate oven and hob, and welded them together and connected their terminals together so that I only needed one cable to supply the thing, would it use less electricity?

If I had an integrated cooker, and I sawed it up to give me a separate oven and hob, would they start to use more electricity?
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EdwardCurrent

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PostPosted: Wed Mar 03, 2010 7:59 pm Reply with quote

icon_redface.gif icon_redface.gif
My opologies Jonic0. I am very sorry for my mis-leading information. (I could blame it on Stella A, but that isn't really an excuse, rather more of an explanation, but I do opologise).

27.7A ? So you should be ok.
After lasts nights response I would hang about for confirmation icon_redface.gif .

Ed
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flameport

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PostPosted: Wed Mar 03, 2010 8:24 pm Reply with quote

The existing 32A circuit with 6mm cable is fine for both appliances.

In reality, the loading will be far less than the maximum of all elements added together.

Even if the total load was more than 32A for an extended time, the MCB would trip, so the cable won't be damaged.

The OSG also suggests that a 32A circuit is suitable for cookers up to 15kW.
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jonic0

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PostPosted: Thu Mar 04, 2010 10:30 pm Reply with quote

i'd like to take this opportunity to say thanks to both flameport and edward current for your advice and assistance. icon_smile.gif
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