Worcester 24i RSF combi Hot water

HootingOwl · Posted: Sun Jul 25, 2010 12:59 pm

the central heating is working and the boiler stays lit, works as it should.

if you open a hot tap while it is fired for central heating, hot water is delivered.

if you open the hot tap when boiler not fired for central heating, it does not always fire, and you have to turn tap on/off several times to get boiler to fire.

if this is the case, i would be looking at the diaphragm in the diverter valve.

there may be a related problem with a restricted gas supply which would manifest itself by the hot water not getting particularly hot.

the BG fixed price repair covers one defect only so beware. the diaphragm is easy on a 240 - one of the easiest repairs in the book.

Agile · Posted: Sun Jul 25, 2010 1:28 pm

Isn't this the boiler with a plastic flow switch at the left and a four pipr HE?

In any case he says it fires up on DHW demand with a weak flame which goes out after a few seconds.

As I suspect a gas setting problem, if that were the case it would only be our standard diagnostic fee in our local area. Even if it was a diaphragm then that would only be £106. But whoever you choose it will need to be someone who is both competent and honest.

Tony

HootingOwl · Posted: Sun Jul 25, 2010 3:23 pm

tony - you are correct - i was thinking of the 240 RSF not the 24i which indeed has naff-all inside it and is a 4-pipe hex.

gas engineer needed......

logjam32 · Posted: Sun Jul 25, 2010 3:32 pm

Thanks for the help and info guys, it's much appreciated. At least now I have a few ideas as to what I'll be looking at. I'm an engineer myself so I'll give the diagphragm a go, after that then I'll get someone in.

thanks again, great site.

Agile · Posted: Sun Jul 25, 2010 3:40 pm

logjam32 wrote:

Thanks for the help and info guys, it's much appreciated. At least now I have a few ideas as to what I'll be looking at. I'm an engineer myself so I'll give the diagphragm a go, after that then I'll get someone in.

Well let us know how you find that !

bellairaphon · Posted: Sun Jul 25, 2010 4:47 pm

As Tony has pointed out this boiler uses a flowswitch. the weak flame could be a couple of things but if you want to try yourself then you could check the dhw ntc which by what you have wrote sounds like a good possiblity. do you know how to use a multimter.

Nath

logjam32 · Posted: Sun Jul 25, 2010 8:12 pm

Hi Nath, yeah I know how to use a multimeter.

hav it · Posted: Sun Jul 25, 2010 9:58 pm

If i remember right all the work is done in the hx on this boiler,i have had problems with flowswitches on this model cutting on and off.

bellairaphon · Posted: Mon Jul 26, 2010 4:09 pm

ok well take the case off. just lift up and pull forward. then take the two screws that hold the bottom fascia and drop it down. put the multimeter onto 40k now looking at the boiler there are 2 sensors an hotwater and central heating. the hw has 2 yellow wires and is just to the left off the flow switch. with the leads off and power off what is the resistence youve got? should be looking about 33k cold.

Nath

logjam32 · Posted: Thu Jul 29, 2010 5:00 pm

Hi everyone,

Just wanted to let all know that it was the flow switch which was the guilty culprit, have just changed it and all's working perfect (ahh the joys of hot running water) and all for the cost of £35.

Nath, many thanks for the advice about the ntc, my reading was 14.2k, hope this is ok.

I just wanted to say a big thankyou to all for all your expertise, very much appreciated and I hope this thread helps others.

Cheers
Steve[/b]

theheatherjane · Posted: Tue Apr 10, 2012 2:49 pm

Hi all,

I have EXACTLY the same problem with my 24i junior, and was just wondering whether anyone had come up with a solution to this problem?
I had a brilliant man come round this morn who spent nearly 4 hours taking my boiler apart and putting it back together again, and he couldn't find the problem. He was on the phone to Worcester twice and they couldn't help, now they're trying to charge me nearly £400 to send one of their engineers out to fix it. Someone needs to tell there's a recession on...
Any input would be appreciated.
Thanks.

logjam32 · Posted: Wed Apr 11, 2012 4:50 pm

Hi theheatherjane, with my boiler it ended up being the main board that I had to change. I thought it was initially the flow switch but not long after the problems reoccured. I was then led down the path of the main board which I eventually took the plunge and bought a reconditioned one and hey presto no problems since. Hope this helps a little.......

theheatherjane · Posted: Wed Apr 11, 2012 5:13 pm

Thanks so much for responding, all avenues to be explored.
Glad you managed to get yours fixed.

Agile · Posted: Thu Apr 12, 2012 9:16 am

theheatherjane wrote:

Hi all,

I had a brilliant man come round this morn who spent nearly 4 hours taking my boiler apart and putting it back together again, and he couldn't find the problem.

Thanks.

I dont see how anyone can be brilliant if they spend four hours and cannot find a simple fault !

Nor do I see how any fault on that model could justifiably be charged at £400 to repair.

Of course Pimlico Plumbers do manage to charge those kind of prices to fix boilers ( sometimes at least ) but they deal with clients who have too much money and think shiny patent leather shoes and turning up within an hour are more important than a speedy and cost effective repair.

Tony Glazier

Agile · Posted: Thu Apr 12, 2012 9:16 am

Oops... this site seems a bit jumpy today double posting my reply!