just a few questions.

N

novicebuteager

1.which is the most suitable plasterboard to overboard a lath and plaster ceiling,british gypsum of lafarge,needs to be 9.5mm.
2.i am ok with tapeing the tapered edges but what about when the boards butt against each other where there is no taper,do i just tape and easifill these.they will be slightly proud.
3.do the plasterboards really need to be sealed before painting.
thanks in advance.
 
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em right i dnt usually use 9.5 mm boards as they are rubbish but im guessing your useing them to try reduce weight on a weak ceilin (its a btich but have you thought bout takeing it down then you can insulate and use 12.5mm boards)
ive never found any difference between the boards mate so go nuts with what ever one you want.
yes where the square edges meet you just have to try to feather it out over a slightly greater width to loose the difference, try and get the tape on as absolutaly tight as you can to the board mabey use skrim as opposed to paper tape for these as its self adhesive and you dnt have to stick them up with mud thus makeing it slightly more proud than it has to be (if you catch my drift)
and yes if on the odd occasion im doin tape and joint i do seal before i tape but only with the proper stuff not pva
 
jr thanks for reply.

yet another question,i have been given offcuts of plasterboard all 5 foot lengths was told to practice on them.
they are british gypsum wallboard taper edge and have a brown side which says plaster other side.
well the brown side is a poor finish on all these boards and random pitting with many indentions but not damaged so can i use the lighter side down and tape and fill this.

thanks again.
 
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Gonna have to disagree with JR for once here, use the paper tape on the square edges, mud them up and bury the ends in the tapers, the paper tape has a ridge in it which you can feather out from, use scrim in the tapers though.
 
thanks for replys.
so can i use the lighter side of british gypsum t/e to tape,fill and paint.
a local independent builders merchant stocks only b/g t/e and i want to use an independent not a shed.

thanks.
 
You use the ivory side, regardless of whether your tape jointing or plaster finishing.
For the square cuts that butt up together, you need to put a larger spread of easyfill/joint compound over the tapes, so they can be feathered out.
It's lovely job all that sanding, nice and dusty. Best sandpaper to use is 150-180 grit, remember you will need to sand the joints down after each application a light sand for the first two, then after the third application you are trying to get it nice and smooth.
I am a big fan of the nylon self adhesive tapes, if you use the paper tapes and are still a bit of a novice, you can get dry spot behind them, which are great fun to repair :!:
 
If I were doing a ceiling I would use 12.5mm square and skim it. If I were not skimming it I would use taper boards. Tapering square boards is a mugs game. Wonder what Richard C thinks?
 
i think he ment the square ends of the board joe not all round square boards that would just look attrotcious haha be a nightmare to try and get flat, i agree with you on the skimming though but if hes a diyer and doesnt have the money to pay a skilled tradesman then it is what it is i spose.
 
yes i am a novice diyer but as i was made redundant at age 51 as self employed i get no favours with no payouts. so i have plenty of time to fix up my house and then have a nice holiday.
Todays question is can i mix and match different t/e plasterboards.
most of my ceiling is in british gypsum and can i use other makers of board ie lafarge etc.
this will recieve a decorated finish ie painting.
i am keeping my original cove and have them edge channels already installed and after partion removal its a big room.
thanks for replys.:cool:
 
i dnt see a problem with mixing boards make sure you use the drywall sealer beofre you paint it mate, i like that you used the shadow gap beads round the out side did you get the idea off of here and was it one of my posts haha, i tend to be the only person saying about them, its only because we used them on one job last year and they looked absolutaly pukka once it was painted up:cool:
 
yes i searched through here for quote keep cove/cornice.
these edge beads really helpfull and i have positioned them 30mm in from the original cove,this provides another good visable refference point when looking at it,it makes the original cove look larger.
and if the room is measured correctly the edge beads can be fitted to ensure no narrow plasterboards need to be used.
my room has 2 alcoves and an angled bay window,measures 17 foot x 12 foot.
i am useing very cheap hardboard to make templates for around alcoves and bay window.
no angle is the same and really thanks for your time.
 

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