Adjusting toilet inlet pipe

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Hi there,

A while ago I replaced our toilet as the old one was broken. Unfortunately, the pipe for the water inlet was fixed to suit the size and layout of the old toilet, and as such it's too long for the new toilet. This means that if the pipe is just left to lie naturally, there will be a kink in the pipe which cuts off the supply to the toilet. My crude temporary fix for this was to use a tub and mug to wrap the pipe around and stop it kinking (see photo). Not a very elegant solution but it works :rolleyes:


Now, I want to reduce the length of the inlet so that I don't have to rely on this work-around any more. I'm looking for some pointers on how to do it, because otherwise I'm sure I'll end up making a mess of it :oops:

Should I remove the hard plastic pipe (on the left in the photo below) and trim it? I've tried turning the screw on the connector to see if I can disconnect the two pipes from each other, but it doesn't seem to be doing anything...


Or...should I try and trim the white flexible part of the pipe? Or replace it with a shorter length of flexible piping?


Many thanks in advance for your advice!
 
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The 'connector' is an isolating valve, turning the screw 90 degrees shuts supply off. I'd remove the flexi sections and plumb back to the isovalve in copper. Doubtful you can do anything with whats there.
 
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Kinked Hep20 pipe AND a cheap non WRAS flexi (also kinked).

I would replace all in copper but if you're doing it yourself just shorten the 'grey' pipe at the isolation valve but use an insert and a copper olive.

Why you installed it like that is a mystery but it made me chuckle.
 
Thanks gents for your feedback.

I guess you're both saying that to sort it properly it should be plumbed in copper - not something I should try myself, don't have the tools or know-how so I should get a proper grown up to do it instead!

Why you installed it like that is a mystery but it made me chuckle.

The piping was installed by the previous owner, and is of a similar standard to the rest of their handiwork. Not that I'm saying I'd do any better, mind... :LOL:
 
Well if it's not a wind up then.
And you don't have the tools you need someone who has a plumber will have sorted within an hour.
I to would remove the flexi tap connector and install rigid copper pipe and get the pipes clipped correctly as well.
Just could not believe you thought the service valve would disconnect from the pipe work, once you turned the isolation screw!
You need spanners for that my friend!
After all you did post this
Hi there,
A while ago I replaced our toilet as the old one was broken.
So assumed your handy work and you must have had some tools to carry this out.
 
I was just being thick. I saw the screw and once I'd assumed it had something to do with fixing things in place there'd be no way I'd click what it was really for :rolleyes:

I've never done any plumbing apart from putting in the new toilet. Don't have any experience fitting copper pipes, or any of the proper tools for cutting, soldering etc. I guess for the size of the task I'm as well getting someone in to do it who'll do it properly.
 
The size of the task is not that great, but if you don't have the correct tools to do it you are struggling. So options are buy yourself pipe cutter/hack saw or splicer, a couple of spanners, drill for installing clips, screw driver a length of 15mm copper pipe, 15mm compression elbow maybe and a tap connector(or angled tap connector) some PTFE tape, raw plugs, 15mm pipe clips and screws.
or call a plumber.
 
Not experienced at plumbing? We'd never have guessed. ;)
View media item 41058
As Threadjacker has suggested, cut the grey pipe and attach the flexi to it with a new copper olive and a correct insert.
Secure it to the wall with a pipe clip close to the isolating valve.
 

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