Mmmm how to run an outside cable from this consumer unit?

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I want to run power out to the shed. Now I understand the principal, but lack possibly lack in some hands on skill to achieve it with regards to the board my consumer unit is mounted on. It would have been handy of there were accessible screws to lift the front face of the wooden paneling off, but these have been filled in with wood filler. Now there are spare bays here for an extra mccb. I plan to have the rcd within the shed itself via a 2 way consumer unit. Power comes in via an outside meter box. The meter tails come through the wall and up through the bottom of the paneling. Perhaps I could make this gouge bigger and I'd be able to insert my swa cable through it?

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Even if you gouge out the bottom you wouldn't be able to terminate the armour properly. best to remove the boxing, terminate armour into a galv box or conduit box then into the consumer unit...or call Jordan Electrics and get them to do it for you...!
 
True....

I suppose I could do everything up until that point and they can then do the final connection.

If I run cable that is not SWA in ducting, will this be suitable? My interpretation from BS7671 would say yes as it stipulates armour protection. But double checking.
 
Also, no point in having an RCD in the shed, it will be protected from the main consumer unit as you have no unprotected ways to use.
 
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True....


If I run cable that is not SWA in ducting, will this be suitable? My interpretation from BS7671 would say yes as it stipulates armour protection. But double checking.

Depends on what route the cable is taking, buried, surface...

If it's being buried then may as well run it in SWA.
 
It will be buried. But... I need to put the ducting in first as paving will be going down before the shed is even built! So the ducting means it will allow me to provide power without having to dig up the paving. Or if the cable faults I can just pull it out.
 
The ducting won't provide any mechanical protection but if it's buried under slab then I wouldn't worry too much about it! You could use Hi-Tuf or N-YYJ, but my preference would be SWA.

Make sure the ducting is a nice straight run!
 
38mm black poly pipe for electrical cables I have got. Quite thick too.

Yeah once the cable goes through the wall, then down the wall in trunking (cant go below floor level as solid concrete!) its pretty much a straight run.

Should have a nice long bend in the duct for the cable to go through.
 
I want to run power out to the shed. Now I understand the principal, but lack possibly lack in some hands on skill to achieve it with regards to the board my consumer unit is mounted on. It would have been handy of there were accessible screws to lift the front face of the wooden paneling off, but these have been filled in with wood filler. Now there are spare bays here for an extra mccb. I plan to have the rcd within the shed itself via a 2 way consumer unit. Power comes in via an outside meter box. The meter tails come through the wall and up through the bottom of the paneling. Perhaps I could make this gouge bigger and I'd be able to insert my swa cable through it?
You have never worked with SWA before have you?
How are you going to get around the requirements of notifying your Local Authority Building Control btw?
 
I'll cross that bridge when I get to it. It will be getting tested by a qualified electrician. I want to try and do most of it on my own. Even If I install the 2 way consumer unit in the shed and wire all the lights and sockets up accordingly.
 
I'll cross that bridge when I get to it. It will be getting tested by a qualified electrician. I want to try and do most of it on my own. Even If I install the 2 way consumer unit in the shed and wire all the lights and sockets up accordingly.

Not gonna happen - unless you find a dodgy electrician.........and if you'gonna do that, you might as well just do it all yourself anyway.
 


Die cast box, armour glanded to the bottom of the box. Cores taken through a grommetted hole in the top straight into the consumer unit. No joints in the box. There should be a 230 V warning label on the die cast box. And it would have been better to have used a banjo on the armouring.
 
And it's worth pointing out that the diecast box has to be connected to earth, which in turn earths the armour of the SWA - as shown in the photo above where you can see the G/Y cable connected on the left of the diecast box.
 
Thanks for the images. Yes when we run cables in vehicles with a separate earth we earth the terminal boxes also. Same principle I guess.
 

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