How important is radiator location in a room?

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In that case the cold spot would be in the centre of the room!
 
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Yeah, that's all well and good but what about that well known cold spot the ceiling?
 
not many people habitate the ceiling BUT.. for the likes of DanR aka "giagantors" (a medical term for lanky gits) I install four immersion heater elements onto your standard ceiling fan blades.

LeeC has a table worked out by Steelmasons for sizing the fan and Eco can wire it to work when the "giagantor" enters the room. Alec1 tried to do a WC version but I leveled him...
 
not many people habitate the ceiling BUT.. for the likes of DanR aka "giagantors" (a medical term for lanky gits) I install four immersion heater elements onto your standard ceiling fan blades.

LeeC has a table worked out by Steelmasons for sizing the fan and Eco can wire it to work when the "giagantor" enters the room. Alec1 tried to do a WC version but I leveled him...

:LOL:

Thanks for brightening up my day
 
not many people habitate the ceiling BUT.. for the likes of DanR aka "giagantors" (a medical term for lanky gits) I install four immersion heater elements onto your standard ceiling fan blades.

You think Dan is tall at a stated 6' 7" ? ( Has he checked that measurement lately? )

The son where I am fitting a new boiler is 6' 10" !

Mother is only 5' 9" but she has some 6" heels though!
 
If by check, you mean if I don't duck, I scalp myself walking through doors, then yes.

Frequently. :p


However I'm at that age now where I am growing out instead of up. :cry:
 
the idea of putting rads under the window is an old one. With draughty old single glazed windows there, the heat loss is highest, so the maximum heat goes straight outside to warm the sky.
This point has been made several times, unfortunately it is not necessarily true. For example:

When my house was built (about 25 years ago), the heatloss was as follows:

Unfilled cavity walls - 229W/°C = 65%
SG wood windows - 125W/°C = 35%
Total loss - 354W/°C

The house has been cavity filled and UPVC double glazed windows fitted. The heat loss is now:

Filled cavity walls = 65W/°C = 45%
DG UPVC windows = 80W/°C = 55%
Total loss = 145W/°C

So, although the total heat loss has decreased, the loss through the windows has increased from 35% to 55%; i.e. it is greater, relatively, now than it was when the house was built.
 
I missed this.

The official, kosher, 24 carat reason for putting the rads under the windows is convection and draughts.

The windows usually have the highest U value and are the coldest surface in a room. They cool the air and you will get a current of cold air cascading down the glazing and across the floor, like an invisible waterfall.

Putting a radiator under the window will reduce this, stop it completely or reverse it.

IF you put a radiator on an internal wall, you will get the cold draught blowing across the room, at low level, being heated by the radiator and rising to the ceiling, so that there is a warm draught blowing back to the window, like a conveyor belt. The radiator will accelerate both the cold low draught and the high warm draught. Both will tend to adhere to the floor/ceiling (Coanda effect); the heating will function as a heat transfer device, conveying heat directly from the hot rad to the cold glazing, with less heat getting into the room.

SWMBOs frequently have little covering on their ankles and are very sensitive to the low cold draughts. If you put a rad on an internal wall, you'll never hear the end of it.

Double/triple glazing makes the effect less pronounced. Would double/triple glazing stop low level draughts altogether? I've no idea.

You will also get a (less obvious) cold downwards draught generated by the external wall, which is usually the second coldest surface in the room.

I had a job that involved an early '70s era building, that had storey height single glazing (8 or 10 feet high) in steel framed windows. The finned tube convectors under the windows didn't work. On several occasions, I saw staff members kneeling on the floor, studying the windows frames and walls to try to find the hole where the cold draught was blowing in from outside. There were no holes.

I've just flicked through this, apologies if someone has already said that. Spareshunter got closest, IMHO.
 

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