SPRAYING CAR BONNET WITH CANS

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Hi All, would appreciate advise for respraying bonnet on Renault Clio.
The lacquer is flaking in the centre of the bonnet (area size 2ft x 2ft approx). Is it better to strip and start again or repair, also I wish to respray with cans of paint, have done this in the past with cellulose and was succesful. Any advise would be appreciated.

Thanks.
 
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the mrs did this for me :LOL: (i'm too impatient for spraying!) and it came out fine. as i understand it you have to rub the whole thing down to make sure there's no lacquer left and then make sure it's really cleaned of dust etc. then slowly build up with fine layers until you get an good even coating.
then the same with the lacquer over the top.
it's apparently all a case of taking your time and building it up. hence the reason i didn't do it :LOL:
 
Also have some 1200 wet and dry ready. If you get any runs just wet the paper, rub them out then use t-cut or body compuond to bring it back up!
 
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the mrs did this for me :LOL: (i'm too impatient for spraying!) and it came out fine. as i understand it you have to rub the whole thing down to make sure there's no lacquer left and then make sure it's really cleaned of dust etc. then slowly build up with fine layers until you get an good even coating.
then the same with the lacquer over the top.
it's apparently all a case of taking your time and building it up. hence the reason i didn't do it :LOL:
Hi. I'm single so have no choice but to do it myself. Thanks, appreciate your advise, feel more confident now.
 
Don't expect to get the same "fresh from the factory" finish with an aerosol can. They CAN be used to achieve satisfactory results on older cars, but be aware that car manufacturers actually use many different shades for the same colour. Vauxhall used to use a blue called China Blue, this had about 14 different shades! The off-the shelf aerosols are usually "somewhere in between" the shades.

If the laquer is peeling, flat the whole bonnet down using 240 grit wet & dry. Its important to feather back the peeled edges of the existing laquer, even better to sand off all the laquer. Do all this with the bonnet closed & don't miss any. Add a bit of shower gel to the water in the bucket to stop the wet & dry clogging the paper. Then use 400 grit wet & dry & do the whole thing again to remove any coarse scratches left by the 240. Open the bonnet & flat the returns lightly with the 400 grit.

Now wash it down with clean water & let it dry. Can you see any shiney bits? There the bits you missed, go back & flat them with the 400 grit!

Wash down, let it dry & mask up anything you don't want painting (use good quality masking tape). Now give the bonnet four coats of grey primer, let it touch dry between coats. Next spray a very fine mist of black over the bonnet (guide coat) & let it dry. Now CAREFULLY flat the primer using 600 grit wet & dry. All you are aiming to do is remove the black mist, leaving a perfectly smooth surface.

Wash it down & re-mask if necessary.

Using the previous good advice, warm the paint in warm water (dry the cans & shake well before use). Using even passes, start to spray the colour coats, start at the top of the bonnet & work to the front edge, each pass should slightly overlap the last. Three coats will be adequate, letting each coat touch dry to allow the solvents to evaporate.

Stand back, does it look okay with the metallic nice and even? Now you can laquer it. Four coats is fine, but be aware that because its difficult to see the laquer (because its clear) its very easy to be heavy handed & put too much on & cause runs in it. If that does happen, let the run dry completely & flat it out using 1200 then 1500 wet & dry before cutting & polishing.
 
Don't expect to get the same "fresh from the factory" finish with an aerosol can. They CAN be used to achieve satisfactory results on older cars, but be aware that car manufacturers actually use many different shades for the same colour. Vauxhall used to use a blue called China Blue, this had about 14 different shades! The off-the shelf aerosols are usually "somewhere in between" the shades.

If the laquer is peeling, flat the whole bonnet down using 240 grit wet & dry. Its important to feather back the peeled edges of the existing laquer, even better to sand off all the laquer. Do all this with the bonnet closed & don't miss any. Add a bit of shower gel to the water in the bucket to stop the wet & dry clogging the paper. Then use 400 grit wet & dry & do the whole thing again to remove any coarse scratches left by the 240. Open the bonnet & flat the returns lightly with the 400 grit.

Now wash it down with clean water & let it dry. Can you see any shiney bits? There the bits you missed, go back & flat them with the 400 grit!

Wash down, let it dry & mask up anything you don't want painting (use good quality masking tape). Now give the bonnet four coats of grey primer, let it touch dry between coats. Next spray a very fine mist of black over the bonnet (guide coat) & let it dry. Now CAREFULLY flat the primer using 600 grit wet & dry. All you are aiming to do is remove the black mist, leaving a perfectly smooth surface.

Wash it down & re-mask if necessary.

Using the previous good advice, warm the paint in warm water (dry the cans & shake well before use). Using even passes, start to spray the colour coats, start at the top of the bonnet & work to the front edge, each pass should slightly overlap the last. Three coats will be adequate, letting each coat touch dry to allow the solvents to evaporate.

Stand back, does it look okay with the metallic nice and even? Now you can laquer it. Four coats is fine, but be aware that because its difficult to see the laquer (because its clear) its very easy to be heavy handed & put too much on & cause runs in it. If that does happen, let the run dry completely & flat it out using 1200 then 1500 wet & dry before cutting & polishing.

Hi sorry for delay thanks for the the advice, this has given me the confidence to go ahead. Much appreciated. Thanks again.
 
Hi I am confused as to how to go about spraying/sanding the laquer.

Lets say I apply two light coats of laquer and then need to rub it down a little.

1) How long should the second lacquer coat be left before rubbing down?
2) Would I use the 1200 or 1500 grit wet? If so doesn't this mean a long delay to allow everything to dry before applying a further coat?

Alternatively:
Do I just apply all the lacquer coats and rub/buff up at the end? Again how long should it be left to dry before rub/buff?
 
We apply the top coat in maybe two coats, leaving the first coat 10-15 minutes to get tacky. Apply the second wetter coat (more thinners) and leave the finished work for as long as you can, at least a few days.

The first few jobs you do, will have to be 70 - 80%, and let it go, don't expect perfection. Don't go buffing out flies/dust that will take you back down to primer. E3 cutting compound on a cloth, will be fine until you get going.

 
Make sure you use a panel wipe before painting to make sure all the crap is gone.

Can you/should you use panel wipe on a rubbed-down base coat? I don't want to take the base coat off with it because I am aiming to just relacquer without repainting.
 
Yes you can, the tack or panel wipe will take any remaining dust off just before you apply the top coat. Especially if you are working in an ordinary workshop while sanding and painting.
We don't usually do to much between base coat (colour) and top coat, apart from wiping it for dust

Keep in mind if the car is getting on a bit, you may have to blow in the top of the wings with the new paint, to match the bonnet? Maybe that's why you don't want to disturb the original base coat?
 
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