A quick question about checking my pump

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In the FAQ it says;

Turn boiler off at mains and set the timer for constant heating and room stat to max. Take out the big chrome screw in the middle of the pump and water should start to drip out.


How do I turn the boiler off, without turning my programmer off? I'm pretty sure they're on the same circuit. :confused:
 
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In the FAQ it says;

Turn boiler off at mains and set the timer for constant heating and room stat to max.
I agree it's confusing.

The only explanation I can think of is that it ensures the pump should run when you turn the power back on.

Obviously you should reset the programmer and room stat to their normal settings when you know that the pump is working.
 
In the FAQ it says;

Turn boiler off at mains and set the timer for constant heating and room stat to max.
I agree it's confusing.

The only explanation I can think of is that it ensures the pump should run when you turn the power back on.

Obviously you should reset the programmer and room stat to their normal settings when you know that the pump is working.

But don't I need all the power on to see if the pump is running, or stuck? :confused:

I've read other bits on the interweb to be careful of scalding water coming out of the 'bleed valve' so presumably everything should be on?
 
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Well the motor is spinning. In a way that's not good as I have no idea what the problem is now. lol
 
Very quickly, the boiler keeps cutting out and restarting. Heating does it too but to a lesser extent and and all rads get piping hot. Hot water is another story. It cuts out within less than a minute of coming on.

It's all here basically.

//www.diynot.com/forums/plumbing/boiler-problems.405511/page-2#3137756


As an aside, I noticed the isolation valve coming out of the bottom of the hot water tank wasn't fully open and when I did turn it I could hear water flow properly. That hasn't fixed it though.

Wondering whether it's the diverter valve. It seems to stay in the down/bottom position whether I request hot water, heating, or both. Should it move? Also, when I was requesting hot water, I could push it up but with resistance, and then it lowered itself again. With just heating its at the bottom but has no resistance at all. :confused:
 
Is your cylinder a direct or in-direct??
If its a direct and youve drained down, it can lead to air blockages, which are a bugger sometimes to get rid of.

You can check what cyl it is by going into loft and if there is 1 header tank, then its a direct..............2 tanks and its a in-direct.
One feeds the heating ,the other feeds the hot water cylinder.

Pump looks like its the correct way, from the limited pictures of pipework.

Also potterton suprimas flow and return normally go up and into ceiling, i have been to many systems which there have been inverted pipe loops above boiler.....meaning that air can get trapped, depending on how its piped.
Like i said ive been into many bungalows etc where ive had to squeeze through a loft with no access hardly and while losing a stone an hr in sweat. All to find some crappy pipework with no air bleed.

Last thing does your system sound noisy?

Like many people have stated, you must have a mix between filthy partially blocked pipes and air in system.

Hope that helps a little? conventional systems are always a pain to fill and remove that last trapped air. Where as a combi you can wack the pressure up and force the problem out.
Theres many ways to get rid of air and sludge but limited ways to help without being there.
Thanx

ps- the isolation valve you talk about may be a by-pass valve, if it was linked to another pipe i.e the flow... then to the return on cylinder its a by-pass which is only suppose to be partially open to pass a limited amount of flow through if all other rad valves in the house are closed.
 
Thanks Groovejet

Presumably a header tank is the small F&E one? In that case I only have one, then the big cold water tank.

System doesn't sound noisey at all as far as I can tell. Pipes don't clunk or anything like that.

When I first drained the system in February it came out as black as slick oil. Ran it through for over an hour into it was coming out clearish. Again when I drained it the other day it was clearish too. Presumably if the pipes are gunked up, it's solidified somewhere?

I've put some cleaner in so will flush it again. The only thing is I guess I run the risk of more trapped air?

Edit: The isolation valve is a typical one which is the same as what's on the tap pipes under the sink. Think it's purely there to stop the water flowing from the hot water cylinder.
 

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