Is my diverter valve faulty?

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Essex
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I'm having problems with my boiler continuously switching on and off every few minutes when putting the hot water or heating on.

While 'investigating this, I'm not sure if my diverter valve is working properly. I have a Honeywell one that looks very much like this;

http://www.uheat.co.uk/warm-water-u...__2PV28.aspx?gclid=CJrGm5rpnL8CFSf3wgoduj4ATQ

With the hot water on, the lever is at the bottom. When lifting it, it offers resistance and as soon as I let go it slowly goes back down.

With the heating on, the lever is at the bottom but it's completely loose.

I didn't test it with both heating and hot water on.

Does this sound normal? Rads do get hot, as does the water but a lot slower. Just wanted to check this is normal. :oops:

Thanks
 
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The one in the picture is a 2 port I assume yours is a 3 port?
Could be a dodgy microswitch in the actuator.
Normal to have resistance on the lever in hot water only mode as the valve is in its rest position.
The lever is there for system draining/filling purpose.
 
The one in the picture is a 2 port I assume yours is a 3 port?
Could be a dodgy microswitch in the actuator.
Normal to have resistance on the lever in hot water only mode as the valve is in its rest position.
The lever is there for system draining/filling purpose.

How would I tell? :oops:

So the lever will always be in the same position regardless of whether I want water, heating or both?

Sorry, can you explain how it works for draining/filling?

Thanks
 
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check if your pump is running.

It is running, I'm just not sure how effectively.

I undid the screw at the front and when putting a screwdriver in I could feel it turning.

I am wondering whether the pump not functioning properly is causing my boiler to keep turning on and off.
 
3 port= inlet from boiler and 2 outlets hot water and heating.
2 port= inlet from boiler 1 outlet.
You could either have,
1,2 port.
2, 2 ports.
3, 2 ports if you have zoned heating.
1, 3 port.
The fact that you referred to it as a diverter valve suggests a 3 port also known as a y plan system.
When you push the lever it can be latched in the open position on a 2 port and in the mid-position on a 3 port to enable the system to be completely drained and re-filled.
 
Yeah definitely a 3 port then.

Potterton Suprima 50. Wilo 50 Gold Pump. Open vented (F&E in the loft). Hot water tank in airing cupboard. Boiler in kitchen. Is there anything else I've missed?
 
check your system is full of water by bleeding air from upstairs rads, bleed the cylinder circs too if you can.

does the pump appear to be running fast enough? can you stop it easily with your finger? have you tried turning the pump speed up?

check around the cylinder pipe work for sludge using a magnet, if it sticks to copper pipe then there is sludge inside.

probably be worth getting a pro in.
 
That boiler does not modulate so immediately it reaches the set temperature it turn off!

One think you could check is the flow and return temp at the boiler WHILE it is firing!

Tony
 

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