Static Van

Hi guys.

Just working out a few bits and pieces to put some DIY wiring in a static right.

First, I can't find any data on the dimensions for a 2 foot flu: what is the length in mm.. is it actually 600mm? Id like to fit one in a boiler cupboard but the width is 23".

Next, I am redoing a lashed-up DIY wired lighting set up with two table lamps, one in each corner of the sofa in the bay window. It's run in flex under carpet from a socket and behind sofa fabrics and cushions. Currently, each table lamp has an in-line switch.

My proposal is to trunk cables round the top of the U shaped sofa where there is a white PVC trim and a lip, so they will be well concealed, along with trunking along the wall to the socket.

At each of the open ends of the "U", I plan to put a 2 way switch, so switching the lamps on and off can be achieved easily wherever you are sitting.

I will keep the inline switches in case only one lamp is needed.

I can fit 25mm trunking in the lip across the width of the static and part way round each cormer, but if I use it, I will have to step down to 16mm because the side windows foul the trunking run.

Alternatively, I can use 16mm throughout.

My dilemma is how to wire the circuit? I am starting with a double socket on a B20 radial.

I can't have any joints or concealed cable (other than in trunking) near the sofa area.

All my joints really have to be in the switch boxes.

The table lamps are Class II, so are wired in flat twin flex.

It would make sense logistically (if not electrically) to take each of these lamp flexes back to the nearest switch box), otherwise the trunking will be filled to overflowing.

Apart from the lamp flexes, I am using singles.

Any ideas, guys, please?

Cheers!!

securespark said:

I can't find any data on the dimensions for a 2 foot flu: what is the length in mm.

Click to expand...

Google says they are 609.6mm.

LED tape can be cut to length.

EFLImpudence said:

securespark said:

I can't find any data on the dimensions for a 2 foot flu: what is the length in mm.

Click to expand...

Google says they are 609.6mm.

Click to expand...

Well, yes, 2 feet is, indeed, 609.6 mm

AFAIAA, most/all "2 feet" tubes are 590 mm (aka 23.23") long (excluding pins), so certainly no good for securespark's 23" gap once there are connectors on the end. However, there are some 21" (13W T5) tubes around, and they might well fit for him.

Kind Regards, John

Thanks folks.

I am replacing a badly fitted ceiling rose with 60W candle lamp. While I'm at it, I may as well fit an energy-efficient alternative.

But which option would give the best light output? Bear in mind it's a small cupboard containing a boiler, a few mops and a vacuum cleaner.

T5 13W?

Ban's LED strip?

Or a batten lampholder containing a

GLS LED 10W?

or a CFL ??W

securespark said:

I am replacing a badly fitted ceiling rose with 60W candle lamp. While I'm at it, I may as well fit an energy-efficient alternative. ... But which option would give the best light output? Bear in mind it's a small cupboard containing a boiler, a few mops and a vacuum cleaner.

Click to expand...

Exactly how much light output do you think you need in a cupboard containing "a boiler, a few mops and a vacuum cleaner"? - are you sure you need any lighting in there at all?

Kind Regards, John

Yes.

Because the users of the cupboard are elderly, the cupboard is at the end of a hallway with no other lighting nearby and because the boiler has on-board controls that need to be regularly used.

Why not a 2D fitting, Simon.
16W ought be to sufficient, but go for 28w if you want it to be really bright

I now work in reverse I find a cheap LED then buy holders for them. However this changes the first lot I got from B&M were £10 for 3 at 3W now £4 each at 5W GU10 type.

I would select LED as cool running but to me the idea of internet buying is flawed as when a bulb blows I want a replacement now not in 3 days time. So it is dependent on local shops what I select.

Hmmm. Not thought of that!

Getting rusty now...

Onto the lighting...

I think the best set-up is:

LNE to the switch nearest to the power supply.

STRAPPER x 2, SWITCHWIRE , NEUTRAL and EARTH (5 core flex?) linking 1st switch to 2nd switch.

Take each 2 core lamp flex back to the nearest switch.

Thus all connections in switch boxes and all cables trunked on surface, not covered in fabrics/ floorcoverings.

What say you guys?

securespark said:

LNE to the switch nearest to the power supply. ... STRAPPER x 2, SWITCHWIRE , NEUTRAL and EARTH (5 core flex?) linking 1st switch to 2nd switch. ... Take each 2 core lamp flex back to the nearest switch. ... What say you guys?

Click to expand...

Sounds OK to me. It's really just standard 2-way switching with an added neutral, isn't it?

Kind Regards, John

Sure. Just wondered if you could see a better or more efficient way of doing it.

Whichever way I do it, I have to get all the cables into 16 x 16mm trunking and leave the customary space.

securespark said:

Sure. Just wondered if you could see a better or more efficient way of doing it.

Click to expand...

I can't see how there could be. As I said, it's essentially standard 2-way switching (for which you require 3 cores plus a CPC), plus a neutral for the lamp off the second switch - so I can't see that there could be any more "efficient" way. Of course, if you were prepared to forego the 2-way switching, it would become much simpler.[/quote]

Kind Regards, John

wrong thread