Garden Wall Project - help required
- Thread starter spiidey
- Start date
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Anyone able to help?
Sifting through them with a garden riddle would be effective but very time consuming - no quick easy option that I can see though - you could try the hose option but I have doubts as to whether or not that would work!
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Ok thanks will ring supplier.
We've got the terram 1000 - if we need to "join" two pieces of this (along the length of the wall) can we do this by simply overlapping each piece by say 150mm?
We've got the terram 1000 - if we need to "join" two pieces of this (along the length of the wall) can we do this by simply overlapping each piece by say 150mm?
We're now looking to lay slabs.
Two issues:-
Two issues:-
- 1. The slabs need to have a fall on them. We're using heavily riven slabs - presume we should be using a fall of 1:40? What is the best way to apply this fall in practice with riven slabs - i.e. because they're riven it's difficult to get a consistent measurement of height from slab to slab. Should we use builder's line as a guide line?
2. We've excavated earth previously to give us a roughly consistent level for the slabs, but because we had to adjust the base of one of our walls, the level is now approx 100mm below where the base of each slab will be. With the bed for the slab (40-50mm), this will reduce to c. 50mm-60mm. What is the best way to fill in the remaining void of 50-60mm? We could use type 1 (but would obviously need to pay for this), but we still have a skip full of the excavated earth on site (so free) but not sure if this is recommended for use to fill the void?
use a string line to acheive the desire fall. 1:50 should do more than 1:50 will be a noticable slope.
In a perfect world you would fall it 1:60 in 2 directions but that may not work depending on where your draining to.
Don't put earth back in it won't work. You need to use type1 and compact it.
In a perfect world you would fall it 1:60 in 2 directions but that may not work depending on where your draining to.
Don't put earth back in it won't work. You need to use type1 and compact it.
Thanks. Won't use earth - will just have to pay for more Type 1!
That's interesting re the 1:60 fall in 2 directions - that's what I was hoping you'd say and I think we might be able to do this but will need to get back on the site this evening and have a good think about it.
The slabs themselves will cover an area approx 5m x 5m. If we're doing the 1:60 fall in both directions, that would work out as a fall of 83mm in each direction.
If we're using the builder's line, what is the best way to get the height at one end to be 83mm lower than the height at the other end, given that both ends are 5m apart and I definitely have never seen a spirit level that long!
Had a go at this last night and tried the screed bedding method and ended up breaking a flag when trying to tamp down with the maul. Suspect I was tapping too hard and/or the bed was too high and couldn't compact down any further. Back again tomorrow to have another go.
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I was using an unbound bed of grit sand (c. 40-50mm), which is on top of c. 30-40mm of Type 1 (to bring the level of the ground back up). The slabs themselves are 35-45mm thick and are heavily riven. They range in size from 300x450mm up to 600x450mm.
However, I've had another look at the Paving Expert site and I note the part in particular about using a bound bed. Is it worth it for what we're doing (about 60m2 flags) and if so what type of bound bedding would you recommend (both in terms of the mix of concrete and grit sand, and also in terms of the type of slump to use).
If going with a bound bedding, can a 10:1 mix be bought "ready mixed"? Or would we need to mix this on site? If we need to mix on site, do we need a machine to do this?
Or could/should we simply continue with the unbound bed?
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I was using an unbound bed of grit sand (c. 40-50mm), which is on top of c. 30-40mm of Type 1 (to bring the level of the ground back up). The slabs themselves are 35-45mm thick and are heavily riven. They range in size from 300x450mm up to 600x450mm.
However, I've had another look at the Paving Expert site and I note the part in particular about using a bound bed. Is it worth it for what we're doing (about 60m2 flags) and if so what type of bound bedding would you recommend (both in terms of the mix of concrete and grit sand, and also in terms of the type of slump to use).
If going with a bound bedding, can a 10:1 mix be bought "ready mixed"? Or would we need to mix this on site? If we need to mix on site, do we need a machine to do this?
Or could/should we simply continue with the unbound bed?
Back to the step section, we've put the risers on a bed of Type 1 followed by grit sand.
We are then intending using a concrete infill behind the risers, to hold the risers together. What type of concrete should we use?
We are then intending using a mortar to bond the tread to both (a) the concrete infill and (b) the risers - again, what mortar should we use, and how thick should the mortar be?
We are then intending using a concrete infill behind the risers, to hold the risers together. What type of concrete should we use?
We are then intending using a mortar to bond the tread to both (a) the concrete infill and (b) the risers - again, what mortar should we use, and how thick should the mortar be?
What do you mean your flags are 35mm to 45mm thick? surely they are all the same thickness??
I would always lay flags like this on a rigid bound bed. I use 6:1 grit sand cement. Your flags are probbaly wet cast which makes them weak and prone to cracking which is why they are not suitable for an unbound sand only bed.
You need a mixer for this its far to much to mix by hand.
Or you can get screed delivered semi dry which you can use for most of the day before its too dry.
bed your riser on mortar not just sand. use a strong 3:1 mortar for laying the steps.
Any concrete would be fine for your tread infill just a standard 321 mix
I would always lay flags like this on a rigid bound bed. I use 6:1 grit sand cement. Your flags are probbaly wet cast which makes them weak and prone to cracking which is why they are not suitable for an unbound sand only bed.
You need a mixer for this its far to much to mix by hand.
Or you can get screed delivered semi dry which you can use for most of the day before its too dry.
bed your riser on mortar not just sand. use a strong 3:1 mortar for laying the steps.
Any concrete would be fine for your tread infill just a standard 321 mix
The slabs are 35mm thick at the shallowest point and up to 45mm thick at the highest point, due to their riven nature. We're using the slabs shown in the link below:
http://www.diy.com/nav/garden/fenci...le-Paving-Autumn-L-600x-W-450x-T-40mm-9836667
1. Are these wet cast (and therefore as you say, weak and prone to cracking)? Would hope not given the price/square metre!
2. If we use the 6:1 grit sand & cement ratio for the bound bed, would you recommend laying this completely dry, or should water be added at the mixing stage?
3. Steps: Is this product suitable for the concrete infill? http://www.diy.com/nav/build/buildi...Lafarge-Multi-Purpose-Concrete-Large-11867929
4. Steps: What mm thickness of mortar would you recommend for bonding the underside of each tread to the risers?
5. Steps: To get a "strong" mortar for the bed for the steps, what makes the mortar 'strong' - is this using grit sand? Or the 3:1 ratio?
6. Steps: How thick should the mortar bed for each riser be?
Apologies for so many questions and thank you for all your help to date.
http://www.diy.com/nav/garden/fenci...le-Paving-Autumn-L-600x-W-450x-T-40mm-9836667
1. Are these wet cast (and therefore as you say, weak and prone to cracking)? Would hope not given the price/square metre!
2. If we use the 6:1 grit sand & cement ratio for the bound bed, would you recommend laying this completely dry, or should water be added at the mixing stage?
3. Steps: Is this product suitable for the concrete infill? http://www.diy.com/nav/build/buildi...Lafarge-Multi-Purpose-Concrete-Large-11867929
4. Steps: What mm thickness of mortar would you recommend for bonding the underside of each tread to the risers?
5. Steps: To get a "strong" mortar for the bed for the steps, what makes the mortar 'strong' - is this using grit sand? Or the 3:1 ratio?
6. Steps: How thick should the mortar bed for each riser be?
Apologies for so many questions and thank you for all your help to date.
yes they are wet cast. its just how they are made but makes them very weak compared to a pressed concrete flag which is pressurised in a mould whereas wet cast are just poured into a mould and left to cure. Its not a major issue, millions are made and laid every year it just makes them unsuitable for heavy hammering down.
For your step tread use a 3:1 building sand-cement mix and make it at least 10mm thick and no more than 50mm
as i said any concrete will do for the infill.
Bed the riser on 50mm of mortar.
I would always lay these flags on a wet mortar bed individually rather trhan a screed bed because of the tapping down problems.
See paving expert for details
For your step tread use a 3:1 building sand-cement mix and make it at least 10mm thick and no more than 50mm
as i said any concrete will do for the infill.
Bed the riser on 50mm of mortar.
I would always lay these flags on a wet mortar bed individually rather trhan a screed bed because of the tapping down problems.
See paving expert for details
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