Nylon nuts

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mouk

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Doesn't seem to be a great deal about nylon nuts on discussion forums.

Is the gist that they are better to use over normal nuts when you need to ensure the nut won't come loose over time?

I have a job at my house at the moment where some joists are being extended to sit on a new block wall and they are using bolts to connect the timber together.

Obviously over time these could in theory work loose throughvibration etc so I am thinking of adding a second nut on or I could use a nylon nut instead.

Also can they be used externally?

Thanks
 
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Nyloc nuts, you mean......basically they have a nylon insert which gets it's own thread cut when the nut is screwed in place.
Perfectly suited for outside use (with stainless bolts).
Of course when used in construction, vibration isn't normally an issue.
Nylon nuts can be reused a couple of times and retain their locking tendencies.
John :)
Just a small edit.....Nyloc nuts needn't be stainless or coated-all types are available.
J.
 
Actual solid nylon nuts are usually used in special locations where strength isn't an issue. They're normally used with nylon bolts. They're used either because they won't damage the material they are being used with, or as part of low voltage electrical insulation for some reason.

Never seen them used as supplementary locknuts.

If you're talking about nyloc nuts then John already has those covered. You only need the nyloc nut though in that case, you don't need it as a supplementary locknut.

Personally, as far as I can remember, I've never seen anything apart from plain single nuts used in fixed constructions where vibration isn't a consideration. I'm not a construction expert though.

You could also use a drop of Loctite type thread locker on the threads.
 
So basically you can use them instead of normal nuts just to ensure the nut won't come off?


They are quite expensive compared to normal nuts.

The bots I have - not sure if they are stainless steel - the oens otuside anyway.
 
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Yes you use Nyloc type nuts instead of plain nuts. You would still use suitable plain washers under them. Cost depends where you get them from and how many you want. Diy places tend to be expensive. "Six on a card" sort of thing. Try eBay or a local engineering supplier.
 
At Wickes, £2.59 per pack of 6 @ 10mm. They call them self locking nuts, which was indeed a term used by the Simmons group for the original design.
Remember those, Dave :p The last couple of threads on the nut were split,
and slightly crushed to give a crossed thread effect.
John :)
 
I bought a pack of M8's - 7.50 odd i nScrewfix for 100.

Turns out they are too small.

The nut I have says 8 on it so I assumed it was M8!

Looked online on how to work out nut size - nightmare.
 
Metric nuts are dead easy....it's the diameter of the threads widest part.
The common sizes are 8, 10 and 12mm.
I can't comment on the nut markings but best take a bolt with you when you return them.
John :)
 
If it says 8.8 on the head of the bolt, that refers to the type of steel it's made from.
 
Burnerman said:
Metric nuts are dead easy....it's the diameter of the threads widest part.
The common sizes are 8, 10 and 12mm.
I can't comment on the nut markings but best take a bolt with you when you return them.
John :)
Click to expand...

So if it is 12mm wide is that an M12? or does the M refer to the bolt?

The nut definitley just says 8.
 
mouk said:
Burnerman said:
Metric nuts are dead easy....it's the diameter of the threads widest part.
The common sizes are 8, 10 and 12mm.
I can't comment on the nut markings but best take a bolt with you when you return them.
John :)
Click to expand...

So if it is 12mm wide is that an M12? or does the M refer to the bolt?

The nut definitley just says 8.
Click to expand...

M=Metric
12=12mm diameter
Other markings can dictate the material they are made from or an indication if it is metric fine or metric coarse thread ( normally coarse).
John :)
 
Burnerman said:
At Wickes, £2.59 per pack of 6 @ 10mm. They call them self locking nuts, which was indeed a term used by the Simmons group for the original design.
Remember those, Dave :p The last couple of threads on the nut were split,
and slightly crushed to give a crossed thread effect.
John :)
Click to expand...
Yes I remember those. Mostly used to come across them in smaller sizes on things like industrial switchgear IIRC. Mind you that's what I mostly worked on when I did that sort of thing. Came across a couple in one of the inherited tins the other day.
Haven't looked it up but I reckon Nyloc came in around the early/ mid 60s. I remember my dad showing me one and explaining it, saying they were "new"
Nyloc are good of course, but not where anything gets hot enough to degrade the plastic ring. I guess you'd use the all steel prevailing torque type there.
TBH although the Nyloc type are good, I've never used them that much apart from direct replacement, and anything which is obviously going to get a lot of vibration, or is a problem. I've generally found plain nuts / washers, with spring washers if needed enough. Or Loctite , although I know a lot of people don't like it. A drop of Studlock and it ain't coming undone!

Goes off muttering "Locking wire, tab washers, castellated nuts, riveted thread. . .
 
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