Please help - Rebating with table saw
- Thread starter ziggy1979
- Start date
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safety guards have been removed for photographic purposes only.
mmmm where have i seen that before??
i blame norm
the good/bad thing about old threads is" wow aint seen him for ages"
scrit or jasonb
hope they are both doing well
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=u7sRrC2Jpp4
For the impatient, skip to 4.20 for the slow mo.
Don't **** with safety features.
For the impatient, skip to 4.20 for the slow mo.
Don't **** with safety features.
he should be using push sticks
ideally no part off your body should cross the edge off the table
you should stand slightly to one side but in a comfortable way without overeaching
you should keep 6" away from the blade
and never have any part off your body over the blade
and incase you think blade gaurds will save you they wont on all but the best saws if you fall on them they will defect and be cut through in a fraction off a second
ideally no part off your body should cross the edge off the table
you should stand slightly to one side but in a comfortable way without overeaching
you should keep 6" away from the blade
and never have any part off your body over the blade
and incase you think blade gaurds will save you they wont on all but the best saws if you fall on them they will defect and be cut through in a fraction off a second
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That made my blood run cold!
Of course it doesn't help that he's cutting solid wood with a full length fence either. Nowhere for it to go if it springs when it's cut.
For anyone who thinks. "I know what I'm doing" until you've been unlucky enough to have a kickback you don't know what it's like. Spindles and big router tables in particular are frightening things without the right guards. The power they can reject the workpiece with is enormous.
Been into a commercial workshop in the last ten years and seen a bloke putting tiny bits of wood through a spindle with no guards or pushblocks. Heard later the same bloke had his fingers in it.
Looks to me as if there are quite a few donts shown there. OTOH anyone who uses woodworking machines has at some time in the past taken a "bit of a shortcut". As said above "Guards removed for cleaning"he should be using push sticks
ideally no part off your body should cross the edge off the table
you should stand slightly to one side but in a comfortable way without overeaching
you should keep 6" away from the blade
and never have any part off your body over the blade
and incase you think blade gaurds will save you they wont on all but the best saws if you fall on them they will defect and be cut through in a fraction off a second
No riving knife.
Looks to me as if there are quite a few donts shown there. OTOH anyone who uses woodworking machines has at some time in the past taken a "bit of a shortcut". As said above "Guards removed for cleaning"he should be using push sticks
ideally no part off your body should cross the edge off the table
you should stand slightly to one side but in a comfortable way without overeaching
you should keep 6" away from the blade
and never have any part off your body over the blade
and incase you think blade gaurds will save you they wont on all but the best saws if you fall on them they will defect and be cut through in a fraction off a second
the problem is what people see will be assumed as "NORMal"
i was trying to advise what the normal should actually be
so when they choose to cut any corners they are aware there are dangers with safety devices disabled or removed
bejesus how close was he in losing his fingers.
thats 1 lucky guy.
i wont even take the riving knife off my skilly,which is something ive seen peeps do(for some strange reason)
if i want to cut a groove or a rebate then the router comes out.
or if you have 1 with the facility a planer,mine has a rebating guide fitted to it.
thats 1 lucky guy.
i wont even take the riving knife off my skilly,which is something ive seen peeps do(for some strange reason)
if i want to cut a groove or a rebate then the router comes out.
or if you have 1 with the facility a planer,mine has a rebating guide fitted to it.
yes m8,
ive suffered throw back on a bloody big wadkin bursgreen saw,lucky for me i was standing to 1 side coz the timber ended up out the doors and smacked itself into the firms van,AT COCK HEIGHT.
IT WAS MY FAULT,didnt understand the ins and outs of the machine.soon learnt though.
ive suffered throw back on a bloody big wadkin bursgreen saw,lucky for me i was standing to 1 side coz the timber ended up out the doors and smacked itself into the firms van,AT COCK HEIGHT.
IT WAS MY FAULT,didnt understand the ins and outs of the machine.soon learnt though.
at least you can groove/rebate with gaurds and wriving knife in placeyes m8,
ive suffered throw back on a bloody big wadkin bursgreen saw,lucky for me i was standing to 1 side coz the timber ended up out the doors and smacked itself into the firms van,AT COCK HEIGHT.
IT WAS MY FAULT,didnt understand the ins and outs of the machine.soon learnt though.
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