Sagging soldier course

RobertBM · 21 Oct 2014

I removed a rotten wooden window recently and noticed the soldier course of around thirty straight bricks above it were sagging. This had been noticed prior to removing the window, although I didn’t fully understand the reason why. On closer inspection I found the mortar holding the bricks had virtually deteriorated to the point of it only consisting of packed sand. Not wanting to just prop it up with the new window(which is UPVC and not designed to take such weight) I opted to remove them.

I have since asked a builder who I know to insert the lintel and the single line of soldier course. Seems he doesn’t really want to do it because it’s not a big job. So in about a week I’m looking to do it myself. Already purchased a good quality (Catnic) single leaf lintel. What I need to know is do I need to place some DPC under the bricks before they are laid on the lintel? Should I also insert some weeps vents between some of the bricks, even though there were none originally?

Any advice would be appreciated.

Robert

footprints · 21 Oct 2014

I had the same problem the builder did not want the job but he put me in touch with a brickie that was happy to do a small job.

If it's any help here is a pic I took while the job was in progress.

Untitled

footprints
29 Apr 2014
2

He did put two weep vents in.

GoodDIYjob · 21 Oct 2014

Just had this done as well.

Had trouble finding a builder who wanted to quote / complete job. In the end, found it easier dealing with Brickie.

Yes the dpc is supposed to line the lintel before bedding soldiers and should either bed into the internal brickwork joints or probably more practically speaking, tack it to the internal brick work in the cavity given the access limitations.

Should be folded up at ends and weep vents added at least at either end and they say max 450mm intervals.

The Brickie also used a catnic ang 1500 external lintel on my job. I was surprised how light it appeared. There is some deflection between centre and corners of lintel up to 3 or 4mm now it is completed and in place.

Interested on views if lintels should show that much flex.

There was already a concrete lintel in place on the internal leaf. It appears these 1920s build houses were built with substantial timber frames on the outer leaf. Some have retained the frame with replacement windows inside that. Mine hasn't retained the frames.hence the cause of my issue.

Edit. My comments on dpc based on cavity wall. Your brick wall looks like no cavity unless my eyes deceiving me. Oops,no that is another respondents photo....

RobertBM · 22 Oct 2014

footprints said:
I had the same problem the builder did not want the job but he put me in touch with a brickie that was happy to do a small job.

If it's any help here is a pic I took while the job was in progress.

Untitled

footprints

29 Apr 2014

2

He did put two weep vents in.

Well, the soldier brick course on mine is only one brick high as the tops reach the eaves of the bungalow. This at least means I’ll not need to support anything above them. At least I know it’s common to insert weeps, so thank you

RobertBM · 22 Oct 2014

GoodDIYjob said:
Just had this done as well.

Had trouble finding a builder who wanted to quote / complete job. In the end, found it easier dealing with Brickie.

Yes the dpc is supposed to line the lintel before bedding soldiers and should either bed into the internal brickwork joints or probably more practically speaking, tack it to the internal brick work in the cavity given the access limitations.

Should be folded up at ends and weep vents added at least at either end and they say max 450mm intervals.

The Brickie also used a catnic ang 1500 external lintel on my job. I was surprised how light it appeared. There is some deflection between centre and corners of lintel up to 3 or 4mm now it is completed and in place.

Interested on views if lintels should show that much flex.

There was already a concrete lintel in place on the internal leaf. It appears these 1920s build houses were built with substantial timber frames on the outer leaf. Some have retained the frame with replacement windows inside that. Mine hasn't retained the frames.hence the cause of my issue.

Edit. My comments on dpc based on cavity wall. Your brick wall looks like no cavity unless my eyes deceiving me. Oops,no that is another respondents photo....

Thanks for the detailed description of how your brickie inserted the DPC on the lintel.

Did you secure the steel lintel onto the internal concrete one? I ask because it seems the construction appears to be the same. Looking at the one I purchased it appears to be more than enough to hold one single row of bricks.

No, my bungalow doesn’t have cavity walls. With this said there is a gap now between what was the rear of the soldier bricks and the internal lintel. This is because there was mortar at the back of the bricks which has also turned to sand.

GoodDIYjob · 22 Oct 2014

No, not secured to steel [edit: meant concrete] lintel behind as this would require a scpecial lintel manufactured for the purpose and tailored for the cavity width (cavity wall). Although, I understand you can get them and they have higher load ratings.

A lintel above window does not only support the soldier brick course. It also has a share of all the loading from above, such as brickwork above, floors above, roof etc. etc..

I'm not sure how the dpc install would change, if at all, for non cavity wall.

Best search for that scenario, wait till someone with experience sees this under window forum or maybe get mods to move to building....

Cheers.

RobertBM · 22 Oct 2014

GoodDIYjob said:
No, not secured to steel lintel behind as this would require a scpecial lintel manufactured for the purpose and tailored for the cavity width (cavity wall). Although, I understand you can get them and they have higher load ratings.

A lintel above window does not only support the soldier brick course. It also has a share of all the loading from above, such as brickwork above, floors above, roof etc. etc..

I'm not sure how the dpc install would change, if at all, for non cavity wall.

Best search for that scenario, wait till someone with experience sees this under window forum or maybe get mods to move to building....

Cheers.

Have to admit I did ask the builder if he was going to secure my new lintel to the inner concrete lintel being as it would be virtually butted up against it after installation. He did say it was up to me, although I got the impression he wasn’t keen on doing it. At least I now know it’s not standard practice, so thanks for letting me know.

Even though my new steel lintel wont be holding more than the thirty or so soldier bricks, I’m always wanted to ensure it’s a job not needing repairs later on. As you say, I’ll look to see if I can read up more about the DPC in another section.

Many thanks

Robert

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Sagging soldier course

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