Electrical earthing type

C

chaeobods

Hello. Could someone please confirm this earthing/electric system in our house. TN-S?

http://i.imgur.com/KQMKKXX.jpg - Picture A

http://i.imgur.com/5f7tMa0.jpg - Picture B

Picture B is a closeup of Box A.

If you look at pic A you'll see Box A which is where the power comes in. Box B is the fusebox, Box C is the shower mains. Obviously, this is pretty old and hasn't been upgraded in decades. What I need to know is the earthing system here.

Picture B is without the cover and shows three cables - so the one on the right is the earth, supplied by the power company? In picture A you can clearly see a green cable coming out from that box all the way to Box C...then back out of Box C and runs down the wall where it eventually earths the water pipes that come into the house in the kitchen.

What you can barely see in both pictures is a second earth wire coming from Box A - this runs up to the fusebox.

TN-S ?

Thank you for any replies.
 
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Why on earth have you opened your cutout? Are you trying to kill your self? Not to mention it's illegal.
 
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ban-all-sheds said:
JohnW2 said:
Sorry about size of images!
Click to expand...
Their size might be why the OP left them as links rather than putting them inline. They are too big even for a 1920 wide screen - could you remove them, please?
Click to expand...
Now you know what you've been doing to my poor little laptop screen over the years :)

If at least one other person asks me to remove them, I will.

Kind Regards, John
 
Unfortuately even with the cover off you can't realiablly tell if it's TN-S or TN-C-S. Theres two seperate black wires in the bottom of the cutout but you can't tell how far back they stay seperate (or indeed if they are linked in the cutout).
 
If you hold down (key) 'Ctrl' and tap '-' (minus key) about 3-5 times, it all fits, same but with + key and you are back where you started.

3-5 works for me, as am on laptop
 
I made my browser window 1024 wide, and then zoomed out until I got to the point where the horizontal scroll bar disappeared.

The text was completely illegible.
 
ban-all-sheds said:
JohnW2 said:
Now you know what you've been doing to my poor little laptop screen over the years :)
Click to expand...
I think that since you pointed out what I was doing, I haven't done it again.
Click to expand...
True, I don't think you've done it very often since then. Unfortunately, IIRC from what you've done to me in the past, I think that even if I remove them this whole page of the thread will remain the same (wide) width).

Kind Regards, John
 
Any better BAS?

https://api.imgur.com/models/image

Let's start with the letter 'H'

KQMKKXXh.jpg

5f7tMa0h.jpg
 
mfarrow said:
Any better BAS?
Click to expand...
Fine for me, thanks.

Might still be a pain for anyone with a 1024-wide display.


Do I get any points for observing that a brown cable has been used for the N from the cutout to the connector block?
 
Unfortuately even with the cover off you can't realiablly tell if it's TN-S or TN-C-S. Theres two seperate black wires in the bottom of the cutout but you can't tell how far back they stay seperate (or indeed if they are linked in the cutout).
Click to expand...

The incoming cable is a split concentric hence TN-S as I stated
If it was a plain (PME) the outer sheath would be terminated in the neutral block with a link to the earth terminals

Standard UK jointing practice (it does exist)
 
ban-all-sheds said:
mfarrow said:
Any better BAS?
Click to expand...
Fine for me, thanks. Might still be a pain for anyone with a 1024-wide display.
Click to expand...
Yes, it might - i'ts just OK on my 1280 one.
ban-all-sheds said:
Do I get any points for observing that a brown cable has been used for the N from the cutout to the connector block?
Click to expand...
A few points perhaps. I did notice, and wondered if the brown might be a sheath. Not that much different from the (brown sheathed) red cable the DNO has used to supply my neutral! It also looks much smaller than the L (I wonder if it is DI?).

What surprised me is that the installation gets its neutral from the cable to which you refer directly from the cutout, rather than from the meter. I suppose there's nothing electrically wrong with that, since the neutral normal just 'goes straight through' the meter, but it's not something I recall having seen done before - a meter with just three conductors going to it just "doesn't look right"!

Kind Regards, John
 
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