Cast Iron sculpture repair

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16 Nov 2006
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Herefordshire
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United Kingdom
Does anyone know of an adhesive for cast iron which will be kept indoors?

Can cast iron be drilled and tapped satisfactorily?
 
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Araldite

Drills and taps well, though the swarf produced is very "dirty"

No need for lubricant in either operation
 
Depends if it's structural or decorative.
If it's a single clean break and purely decorative I'd try for drilling and tapping if possible without spoiling the object.
If you use Araldite, you might get a lighter coloured line at the join. Belzona Super Metal is black (or at least the "molecular metal" was), and it is very good, but it's expensive. Personally I like to try for some sort of mechanical strengthening like steel dowels with any adhesive on metal.
As John says it can be bronze welded or indeed arc welded with preheating and the right rods. Makes a great structural repair, but it's not going to look the same after.
 
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Have you tried stick welding C.I Dave?
I've never tried it - guess it could be a problem with all the free carbon kicking around!
John :)
 
Have you tried stick welding C.I Dave?
I've never tried it - guess it could be a problem with all the free carbon kicking around!
John :)
No John, never tried it. Needs somebody who can weld in the first place! (Well I can, but you know how it is. I'm not really a welder) :) Have seen it done long ago. Seemed a good result with preheating and right rods. IIRC they did use "Cast Iron" rods, although I believe that Eutectrode 680s ( a rod with a lot of nickel I think) can be used.
Have bronze welded smaller pieces myself using OA with good results.
 
There's a couple of Egyptian metal repairers looking to do odd jobs, maybe they can help. Their mummy says they're quite good at gluing beards on.
 
Thanks for all info.
Sculpture is solid casting of lady, 1.2 metres high. She stands on plinth which has 3 feet. One foot has broken off- reasonably straight break. Someone has tried adhesive, but failed. 'Faces' are around 70 mm by 20mm

I am considering drilling for a couple of pins and using an adhesive/filler
and or screwing plate onto underside of foot where it cannot be seen. Will probably also fit an additional support centrally under plinth ( again 'invisible).
 
The pin and glue idea is pretty good.
J-B Weld epoxy is pretty good stuff, loaded with metal and ends up a grey colour so maybe any joint line won't show too much
 

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