It would if there was a neon indicater on the unit as the DP switch would not be fully isolating the neutral from the load
Flex used in walls?
- Thread starter justintime2
- Start date
It would if there was a neon indicater on the unit as the DP switch would not be fully isolating the neutral from the load
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Yes, yes, yes, yes!!!
But, op, it would seem the neutrals are mixed up at the fused spur.
You are describing a basic ring circuit incorparating the twin socket and the FCU.
The single socket is a spur from the ring using the fcu I assume as a control switch
If its 2.5 flex im not sure why you doubt its correct
The FCU basically sounds as if it has the neutrals connected wrong way around or you have misread the markings
It certainly didn't look right to me hence it raised my interest as to what's going on.
I'd like to make sure the supply and load are correct since a large microwave is used in the double socket as well as a kettle. The socket beneath the counter is intended for the integrated tumble dryer so there's a fair amount of consumption going on in one area of which the tumble dryer could be on for a fair amount of time.
Apart from the supply and load configuration of the FCU I'm rather worried and perplexed to why the Flex #1 and Flex #2 exist at all. I was expecting to find an existing double socket with T&E which had been added to with the FCU being connected from the double socket to the supply terminals and the under counter socket for the appliance connected to the load terminals. I want to ensure the FCU is protecting the tumble dryer but as I say I'm perplexed as to why the double socket doesn't have two ends of T&E connecting to it.
Although I cannot find any T&E it would seem odd for there not to have been some sort socket fitted at this location originally as there are no other sockets at that end of the kitchen.
I can take some pictures tomorrow but it is back together now before it got dark so I could turn the electricity back on. Flex #3 has been removed for the time being as I would prefer it all to be T&E.
Kind regards
Justin
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That would be the case if the fcu was spurred from the double socket.
As said if the double socket AND the fcu were both on the ring, then flex 1 could be one leg and flex 2 the other leg
Certainly an alteration as I doubt the FCU and under counter socket were there originally. I believe the previous owner had a push in tumble dryer there and that they did this work for that as they also added the vent to the outside, none of which I believe is standard to the property's original construction. It's hard to see that the socket would have been relocated from anywhere above where Flex #1 and Flex #2 appear to come from as there are wall cupboards above which match the rest of the kitchen.
I didn't think a buried joint was allowed, or would this be OK if they have used a maintenance free junction box?
Kind regards
Justin
Hi, the less hassle option is that you find flex and t+e at two sockets near by,the pain in tha as……option is that there are two hidden joint boxes connecting t+e to flex
DS
Something along the lines of the latter seems to be most likely. The only other sockets visible that are nearby is the one for the gas boiler and the cooker. The cooker is on its own circuit and I know when I switch the kitchen socket circuit off it turns off electricity to the sockets in the diagram as well as the boiler.
If they have joined flex to T&E in a junction box(s) is that allowed?
Kind regards
Justin
There was no MF junction boxes available 5 years ago
Maintenance free joints were limited to crimping, soldering and such like
Maintenance free joints were limited to crimping, soldering and such like
I'm beginning to wonder if the previous owner added the cabinets at the end of the kitchen as I think my neighbour has an american fridge freezer at that end of their kitchen but shall have to call on them tomorrow to see which side it is on. Maybe there was once a socket higher up on the wall for a fridge freezer but this has been altered to extend the run of cabinets right the way along.
If it turns out my neighbour has a fridge freezer on the same wall as my problem I may be able to get some coordinates of that socket, presumably somewhere behind one of three wall cabinets that I have.
Would a photo of it be enough for you to be able to tell if it is 2.5mm? Each core measures about 3mm in diameter including its jacket.
Kind regards
Justin
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