Boilermate ii gledhill boiler buzzing

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Thanks to everyone for the very informative posts.

I have a boilermate ii that has just started buzzing a day or so ago. The buzzing can last for quite a few minutes at a time. Having taken off the cover it seems to be the lower PCB.

However before I start trying to replace capacitors, I wanted to make sure that this is definitely the problem. What confuses me is that the buzzing seems to continue even after I turn off the power to the sockets on that floor of the house and to the "water heater" at the fuse box. Is it possible that I have a different problem?

Thanks in advance.

Matthew
 
It's unlikely that you have a different problem. Boilermates really aren't that complicated.

Test that the mains really IS off.

You have got a mains tester, haven't you? You definitely need one if you are taking the panels off anything with mains in it. It's quite possible that the power to your thermostat or boilermate is not coming from the breaker you think it should be.

You also need to make sure that these capacitors are discharged before going anywhere near them with you fingers.
 
Thanks prl, it indeed turned out to be the circuit breaker for the sockets on the floor below that controls these PCBs. Weird, since there is a separate circuit breaker labelled "water heater".

I've changed the capacitor but the buzzing still persists. I suppose it could be another component on the PCB? There are a couple of burn marks on the label inside the cover. I'll have to order new PCBs I think.

Matt
 
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The hall thermostat probably provides power to the BM from the lower floor sockets.

The "water heater" is probably the boiler that feeds the BM, not the BM itself. Even gas boilers need electricity; given that many plumbers seem not to understand BMs, it's almost certain that the electrician didn't...

Did you replace both electrolytic capacitors? I replaced both, you seem to imply only one.
 
I just replaced one, the component c3 which I saw referred to in the other posts. Having taken a closer look at the circuit board, it looks pretty battered so I wouldn't be surprised if it has other issues. The buzzing is now continuous (EDIT: it stopped eventually overnight with the heating off), any advice on what to do while I wait for the new PCB to arrive? It's not too annoying with the door closed but it can't be good for the pump! I can't switch off the breaker overnight because the fridge is on the same loop.

I think the water heater breaker just operates the immersion heater that is also fired to the tank, but which we don't use.
 
Hi all,

I'm hoping for someone technical with boilermate 11 knowledge would kindly help me out on heating issues I am having. The heating is constantly on unless switched off by the mains fuse spur. I first thought it could be an issue with the mechanical timer but after putting my meter across the contact and testing the on off and timer settings it all seemed to be working fine. I have read a few things on this forum regarding the pump drive and delay timer PCB's but wanted some advise before changing both and effectively spending unnecessary money.

Hope someone can help. Thanks Jack.
 
I'm hoping for someone technical with boilermate 11 knowledge would kindly help me out on heating issues I am having. The heating is constantly on unless switched off by the mains fuse spur. I first thought it could be an issue with the mechanical timer but after putting my meter across the contact and testing the on off and timer settings it all seemed to be working fine. I have read a few things on this forum regarding the pump drive and delay timer PCB's but wanted some advise before changing both and effectively spending unnecessary money.

Hope someone can help. Thanks Jack.
:confused: what more info do you need apart from what you have got on this thread already
 
I wanted to know if the PCB's are definitely the issue causing the heating to stay on? Before all I used to do was leave the mechanical clock on timer and that's it, now it is constantly on unless i turn off at mains. But since testing the timer with my meter I know that's not the cause but as I have limited knowledge of heating I'm not sure what I do from here and if replacing both or one of the PCB's will rectify?
 
I thought this was a forum for help? I have had a gas engineer round who was a friend but said they can't be 100% sure it's the boiler PCB's at fault, I was merely trying to get a little more information.
 
your better getting someone who understand these awful things , with you bringing up this thread i thought you had pcb problems i.e buzzing from pcb
 
Hi Jack197 - my previous house had one of these in, and like you I found that no one really knew much about them or wanted to go anywhere near it, so I had to try and work it out for myself. You'll see a few historic posts by me over the years on here :)

First, have a look at the Manual here:
http://www.gledhill-spares.net/documents/boilermateii-scanned.pdf

Page 29 has some basic fault finding you can do on the PCBs to see if they are faulty.

When you say heating is on all the time, is that what you really mean or do you mean the boilermate is constantly calling for heat from the boiler. If it really is is on all the time then it could be the room thermostat that is faulty sending a permanent 'on'.
 
Hi Gorners,

That's great, thank you. I will try the fault finding later this evening when I am back from work. From reading this it seems the delay timer maybe faulty.

Yes when I turn the mains on the heating starts to turn on no matter what I do with the room thermostat or mechanical timer. I found this morning after turning the mains on for 5 minutes just to get some hot water that the pump drive PCB is making a loud clicking noise.
 
No worries. I had to replace the the pump PCB twice and delay timer once in about 8 years. The first time I had to replace both at the same time, not sure if a fault in one then caused the other to go as well - hopefully not the same
for you but just be prepared it is possible :) I'd have thought the Pump Drive would be the likely cause rather than the delay timer, especially if you've found it to be making a noise, usually a sure sign it's shorting somewhere.

Anyhow hopefully the fault finding pinpoints the cause.
 

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