Do my downlights have to be LE to conform to regs

Hi All,

Pretty simple question I think for the experts on here. Looking at getting downlights fitted in my kitchen and am interested in some iCage ones but then i hit upon LE or not varieties.

It's an existing dwelling (refurb) so should I, to conform to the regs (L1B) make sure they are the LE variety?

I am confused why anyone wouldn't buy LE, If they do the same job and in the end cost less?

Any advice appreciated

This is building regulations rather than electrical regulations and the age of the property does make a big difference.

My mother often says "First catch your monkey" and unless a building inspector is going to inspect then who is going to catch anyone not complying.

Be it the dimple in a GU10 (L1) of the three lug bayonet both cost more but are no different to the basic types when both fitted with non heating versions of the lamps. I will not call it energy saving as only saves energy if heat is not required.

There are problems with regulation for example the gas boiler where using a Sterling Engine and feed in tariff can extract more energy from gas than using the condensation of the flue gas within the boiler but it can't be marked as a bolt on extra because of the way the regulation has been worded.

It is pointed out with Part P for example the approved document is not the law it is only a guide to the law so to try to follow it to the letter does not mean the installation will comply.

So if your going to have a visit from a building inspector then ask him no point asking here as what the inspector says goes not what we say. If your not going to get a visit then why worry?

Bonce said:

I am confused why anyone wouldn't buy LE, If they do the same job and in the end cost less?

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Some people are obsessed about saving a few pounds on the initial price, ignoring the vast amounts of electricity they will waste and the dozens of replacement lamps they will have to buy and fit.

For downlights, get those with GU10 holders and fit LED lamps.
Absolutely no reason to fit halogen ones now.

I am not to sure what building regs say about low energy lighting, but I believe it's something like 75% of lights in a domestic property have to have a efficiency of 40 or greater lumens per watt?

Could not find any references of lumens per watt or anything similar in the Part L documents though

Absolutely no reason to fit halogen ones now.

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Well I have just ordered 20x 4w LED GU10 bulbs to replace the 17 50w GU10 halogen bulbs in my kitchen. 850 Watts to 68 Watts.

eveares said:

Well I have just ordered 20x 4w LED GU10 bulbs to replace the 17 50w GU10 halogen bulbs in my kitchen.

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Changing the lamp type does nothing to address that fundamental problem.

Perhaps he's got a bbbiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiggg kitchen !

Bonce said:

I am confused why anyone wouldn't buy LE, If they do the same job and in the end cost less?

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It's not the bulb but the lamp. With a ES, SES, BA22d, or GU10 lamp fitting you can fit low energy or tungsten bulbs and the low energy bulbs are widely available.

With the L1 and three lug bayonet the bulbs cost more even for the same type be it CFL or LED than for same size and output bulbs which fit in units designed for either type.

I would never fit L1 or three lug bayonet unless forced by the building inspector.

Changing the lamp type does nothing to address that fundamental problem.

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So what should I do, rip out all 17 GU10 down lights and install 1 5w led lamp in the middle of the 36M² kitchen

36 square miles ?

Now that's big !

36 square miles ?

Now that's big !

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LOL, 36 square meters (4 x 9 meters)

If you had a room 36 square miles I think you would need your own nuclear generator to power all the lights.

ericmark said:

With the L1 and three lug bayonet the bulbs cost more even for the same type be it CFL or LED than for same size and output bulbs which fit in units designed for either type.

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Thank Ericmark - sorry I haven't kept up with the post been a busy week! - so am I right in thinking that the LE lights are basically lights that CANT take bulbs which use a lot of energy? So they ONLY accept the CFL LED type you mention but that I can stilll be a good citizen to the environment with downlight's not strictly classed as LE because I can stick in GU10 LED's (which are less money than the CFL LED equivalents).

I assume then that the regs are saying that 1 in 4 luminaores should be LE basically to force peole to 'be good' meaning they can do nothing but fit bulbs that use low energy?