I have a TV aerial on the roof which runs down the side of the house and into the middle of the room to where the TV is. On a shelf above is a radio with an F connector and one of those suction cup moveable aerials. Could I split the TV coax and feed the radio or do I need a dedicated FM aerial as well? Am also going to split near the top of the existing coax to feed the loft for TV.
TV aerial for DAB radio?
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You need a diplexer to join/split DAB and TV, or a triplexer for most FM + DAB + TV. You need a separate aerial for DAB, FM (although some FM aerials will give okay results with DAB), and TV.
(You can also send satellite down the same cable with the appropriate units)
http://www.aerialsandtv.com/onlinesplittersandamps.html#TVFMDABtriplexer
(You can also send satellite down the same cable with the appropriate units)
http://www.aerialsandtv.com/onlinesplittersandamps.html#TVFMDABtriplexer
TV, FM, DAB operate in three separate frequency ranges (VHF/FM - 88 to 108 MHz. DAB - 175 to 230 MHz. TV - 480 to 780MHz), so while certain types of TV aerials will pick up faint* FM and DAB signals if aligned 'just so' the quality will be very poor; ergo, if you want decent radio reception then put up a decent radio aerial.
* The signal quality on FM from one of those T string aerials will be better than the average TV aerial trying to pick up FM.
A decent half-way solution for FM and DAB is an FM dipole aerial but aligned at 45 degrees rather than the typical 0 or 90 degrees (vertical/horizontal). You then either run a dedicated coax cable down to the radio tuner, or you piggyback (multiplex) the radio signal in with the TV signal, send it down the same wire, then filter out each with a diplex or triplex socket.
A V25-100 UHF + VHF/FM diplexer gets fitted on the aerial mast to take the signal from your TV aerial and a FM half-wave dipole. In the living room you fit something such as a GLO28 which breaks out the signal back to TV and FM/DAB
* The signal quality on FM from one of those T string aerials will be better than the average TV aerial trying to pick up FM.
A decent half-way solution for FM and DAB is an FM dipole aerial but aligned at 45 degrees rather than the typical 0 or 90 degrees (vertical/horizontal). You then either run a dedicated coax cable down to the radio tuner, or you piggyback (multiplex) the radio signal in with the TV signal, send it down the same wire, then filter out each with a diplex or triplex socket.
A V25-100 UHF + VHF/FM diplexer gets fitted on the aerial mast to take the signal from your TV aerial and a FM half-wave dipole. In the living room you fit something such as a GLO28 which breaks out the signal back to TV and FM/DAB
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If the original signal is strong enough, then Yes. If not, then No.
As a rough and ready guide, fire up your TV, find its display that shows Quality and Strength. Ideally you'd be looking for 90%+ Quality (the most important thing) and 60-70%+ on strength before you start splitting.
As a rough and ready guide, fire up your TV, find its display that shows Quality and Strength. Ideally you'd be looking for 90%+ Quality (the most important thing) and 60-70%+ on strength before you start splitting.
Better to mount it vertically, after all FM transmissions are mixed polarity. There is no reason what so ever these days to mount FM aerials horizontally.
Wind resistance?
Aesthetics?
Fitting it into the loft?
Actually, forget the first two. They apply to a multi-element FM aerial.
Me again, wondering if anyone can help. Replaced the coax lead from the aerial and split in the loft. The in and out have sufficient separation. One split is left in the loft with no connection. The other continues down the outside of the house and into the living room with an F connector. I connected this to the TV and tried to auto tune with no luck. I selected 'air' and 'digital' but get the weak or no signal message.
I disconnected the HDMI lead from the TV from the sky box which made no difference.
The aerial is pointing the right way and can see the mast with no obstructions. I don't know if the aerial is too old or wrong type etc as have never used freeview in this house. The TV was also purchased whilst living here and have always used Virgin or Sky with it. ( There currently is no requirement for freeview but wanted to check signal strength for when the loft is done).
The TV is a Samsung UE32F5000AKXXU. I don't have any other TV's or set top box to test with.I have done a continuity check on the coax unplugged from the TV and get 0 Ohms. I don't have a dedicated signal testeer.
I also removed the splitter and connected aerial directly to the downstairs connection with the same result.
Is there anything else I could check?
My thoughts are
- TV inbuilt freeview doesn't work (can this be tested?)
- aerial not up to scratch
- some issue with the coax that won't be apparent with a continuity check
- the coax I used from the wall to TV is an older 3C 2V
I disconnected the HDMI lead from the TV from the sky box which made no difference.
The aerial is pointing the right way and can see the mast with no obstructions. I don't know if the aerial is too old or wrong type etc as have never used freeview in this house. The TV was also purchased whilst living here and have always used Virgin or Sky with it. ( There currently is no requirement for freeview but wanted to check signal strength for when the loft is done).
The TV is a Samsung UE32F5000AKXXU. I don't have any other TV's or set top box to test with.I have done a continuity check on the coax unplugged from the TV and get 0 Ohms. I don't have a dedicated signal testeer.
I also removed the splitter and connected aerial directly to the downstairs connection with the same result.
Is there anything else I could check?
My thoughts are
- TV inbuilt freeview doesn't work (can this be tested?)
- aerial not up to scratch
- some issue with the coax that won't be apparent with a continuity check
- the coax I used from the wall to TV is an older 3C 2V
1. Exactly what aerial is above the roof?
2. Did it ever work with this TV?
3. Exactly what splitter did you use?
(An ideal 2-way splitter loses at least 4dB. An ideal 4-way splitter loses at least 10dB.)
4. Exactly what cable connects aerial to splitter?
5. Exactly what cable connects splitter to wall socket?
6. Is wall socket fully screened?
32-CV cable is simply awful. Use WF100 or TX100 cable instead.
See http://www.glodark.com/cable.htm
(32-CV is worse than "type D" cable in this report.)
If your answer to any of the above is "I don't know", please assume it's useless and replace it with the best available.
2. Did it ever work with this TV?
3. Exactly what splitter did you use?
(An ideal 2-way splitter loses at least 4dB. An ideal 4-way splitter loses at least 10dB.)
4. Exactly what cable connects aerial to splitter?
5. Exactly what cable connects splitter to wall socket?
6. Is wall socket fully screened?
32-CV cable is simply awful. Use WF100 or TX100 cable instead.
See http://www.glodark.com/cable.htm
(32-CV is worse than "type D" cable in this report.)
If your answer to any of the above is "I don't know", please assume it's useless and replace it with the best available.
Was it all working before you started replacing cables and adding splitters? If so, then something you've done has stopped it from working. The most likely causes are...
a) poor technique adding new plugs. Look for shield braid touching the centre core conductor
b) didn't read the instructions or labeling. e.g. Plugging source signal cables in to sockets marked "Out" rather than "In", or bending signal cables around tight corners, or trapping and damaging cable by using the wrong sized cable clips or belting it with a hammer.
c) used/bought poor quality cables and ancillaries and used them on a system that was already marginal. Digital signals have quite an abrupt tipping point where the system goes from working to not working. We call this the digital cliff. If your system was close to the edge before you started reducing the signal with joins and splitters then it might just have fallen off the edge. Something as simple as cheap "low loss" coax cable can be enough to hit the tipping point.
Have another look at your work and just check through for possible issues. All it takes is a single strand of braid shield wire to touch the centre core and you can lose enough signal on a marginal system to cause problems. The filaments are very fine so use a torch to help when checking. Recheck your ins and outs too. So very many people seem to get this the wrong way around. Think of your signal like water being tipped from one bucket to another as it makes its way through your system. It gets tipped out of one bucket in to another. That's exactly how the signal should travel, out of a socket further up the chain and in to a socket lower down at each and every step.
a) poor technique adding new plugs. Look for shield braid touching the centre core conductor
b) didn't read the instructions or labeling. e.g. Plugging source signal cables in to sockets marked "Out" rather than "In", or bending signal cables around tight corners, or trapping and damaging cable by using the wrong sized cable clips or belting it with a hammer.
c) used/bought poor quality cables and ancillaries and used them on a system that was already marginal. Digital signals have quite an abrupt tipping point where the system goes from working to not working. We call this the digital cliff. If your system was close to the edge before you started reducing the signal with joins and splitters then it might just have fallen off the edge. Something as simple as cheap "low loss" coax cable can be enough to hit the tipping point.
Have another look at your work and just check through for possible issues. All it takes is a single strand of braid shield wire to touch the centre core and you can lose enough signal on a marginal system to cause problems. The filaments are very fine so use a torch to help when checking. Recheck your ins and outs too. So very many people seem to get this the wrong way around. Think of your signal like water being tipped from one bucket to another as it makes its way through your system. It gets tipped out of one bucket in to another. That's exactly how the signal should travel, out of a socket further up the chain and in to a socket lower down at each and every step.
Thanks Sam. Will try and answer...
1. Unsure on aerial, came with the house. Will try and get a photo next couple of days.
2. Have never tried to use the aerial with anything before now. Tempted to piggyback the neighbours one night as it's only a few metres away.
3. Splitter was from eBay, don't have the make or model handy. Currently not being used as connected the male in and female out directly. Checked belling connections and am happy with them.
4. WF100 as recommended here.
5. Existing with house, unsure of type apart black and same thickness as WF100.
6. There is no wall socket. The coax comes into the house and ends in an F connector. I used an F to belling connector to connect to TV. It had a virgin TV/data box on it but that has been removed.
I might take the TV up to the loft and connect directly to the WF100 to try an eliminate a couple of things.
1. Unsure on aerial, came with the house. Will try and get a photo next couple of days.
2. Have never tried to use the aerial with anything before now. Tempted to piggyback the neighbours one night as it's only a few metres away.
3. Splitter was from eBay, don't have the make or model handy. Currently not being used as connected the male in and female out directly. Checked belling connections and am happy with them.
4. WF100 as recommended here.
5. Existing with house, unsure of type apart black and same thickness as WF100.
6. There is no wall socket. The coax comes into the house and ends in an F connector. I used an F to belling connector to connect to TV. It had a virgin TV/data box on it but that has been removed.
I might take the TV up to the loft and connect directly to the WF100 to try an eliminate a couple of things.
Ah, you've solved it, then.
You've connected to the Virgin cable, which doesn't carry Freeview signals.
Connect it to the aerial instead.
Cheers Sam. Will have a closer look at the outside and inside when next convenient. There is only one coax coming into the house currently, am guessing the aerial hasn't been used for some time. You may have saved me some time and effort (at the expense of a little embarrassment on my part ).
).
Please don't feel embarrassed. It was an easy mistake to make. Also, you were able to provide sufficient, clear information for an easy diagnosis, which most people fail to do.
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