cooker hood wiring

I suggest that you have just a flex connection point to connect to the extractor, with a switched fuse somewhere accessible!
I would agree that is a much more practical approach, given the considerations of future access to which you refer. However, some people moan about the aesthetics of an 'accessible' (hence, often, visible) FCU!

Kind Regards, John
 
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I'm trying to imagine what must go on inside the mind of someone who wants a kitchen (which is a place of work) with no visible sockets, light switches or FCUs, and doesn't think that any of the huge number of styles and finishes on the market are acceptable.
 
I'm trying to imagine what must go on inside the mind of someone who wants a kitchen (which is a place of work) with no visible sockets, light switches or FCUs, and doesn't think that any of the huge number of styles and finishes on the market are acceptable.
I'm inclined to agree, and certainly would have said the same in the distant past. However, the 'kitchen' these days is so often a corner or the end of a main living area that I suppose I can understand some increased concern about the aesthetics.

Kind Regards, John
 
I suggest that you have just a flex connection point to connect to the extractor, with a switched fuse somewhere accessible!

Thank you. This is an eminently sensible idea and clearly a better plan.

I'll ask the electrician to go with that. The switched fuse was always going to be visible anyway on the other side of the kitchen - I've got no problem with these things being visible - switches are far more useful if you can see them. It was just the connection point that I want to be hidden. I'd assumed that the electrician would put a plug on the end of the flex and use an unswitched socket as the connection point and he didn't suggest anything else when we discussed it.

I like your idea far better.
 
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I'm inclined to agree, and certainly would have said the same in the distant past. However, the 'kitchen' these days is so often a corner or the end of a main living area that I suppose I can understand some increased concern about the aesthetics.
In that case I'm trying to imagine what must go on inside the mind of someone who wants a house with no visible sockets, light switches or FCUs, and doesn't think that any of the huge number of styles and finishes on the market are acceptable.
 
I suggest that you have just a flex connection point to connect to the extractor, with a switched fuse somewhere accessible!

Thank you. This is an eminently sensible idea and clearly a better plan.

I'll ask the electrician to go with that. The switched fuse was always going to be visible anyway on the other side of the kitchen - I've got no problem with these things being visible - switches are far more useful if you can see them. It was just the connection point that I want to be hidden. I'd assumed that the electrician would put a plug on the end of the flex and use an unswitched socket as the connection point and he didn't suggest anything else when we discussed it.

I like your idea far better.

Does the fan flex not already have a plug moulded on?

Mine did, and I felt disinclined to cut it off, just in case I had to return it under warranty and the supplier might not like it.
 
They can't wriggle out of warranty responsibilities if you change or remove the plug.
 
Does the fan flex not already have a plug moulded on?

Mine did, and I felt disinclined to cut it off, just in case I had to return it under warranty and the supplier might not like it.

That is an urban myth and does not happen.

"Buy the extension cable. If you chop the lead, you'll invalidate the warranty!"

Remeber this?
 
They can't wriggle out of warranty responsibilities if you change or remove the plug.
I suppose it depends upon what one does after removing the plug. If what one does denies the <whatever it is> over-current protection of &#8804;13A (e.g. by connecting it directly to a 32A circuit), then, in some circumstances, the manufacturer may have some argument for 'wriggling'.

Kind Regards, John
 
"Buy the extension cable. If you chop the lead, you'll invalidate the warranty!"

Remeber this?
That will be where TTC was talking about the output cable of an ELV power supply, not a power cord.

Please try not to make so much noise when clutching at straws - people are trying to sleep.
 
I suppose it depends upon what one does after removing the plug. If what one does denies the <whatever it is> over-current protection of &#8804;13A (e.g. by connecting it directly to a 32A circuit), then, in some circumstances, the manufacturer may have some argument for 'wriggling'.
I suppose he might, if he's prepared to stand up in court and say that he has made an intrinsically unsafe product which has to rely on protection by devices not meant to provide protection for it.

But I was assuming that what one does after removing the plug is safe and compliant.
 
I suppose it depends upon what one does after removing the plug. If what one does denies the <whatever it is> over-current protection of &#8804;13A (e.g. by connecting it directly to a 32A circuit), then, in some circumstances, the manufacturer may have some argument for 'wriggling'.
I suppose he might, if he's prepared to stand up in court and say that he has made an intrinsically unsafe product which has to rely on protection by devices not meant to provide protection for it.
I imagine they would say that, as sold, the product as a whole (including a moulded plug) was 'intrinsically safe', and that they had (assuming they had!) supplied the product with a warning that it might become unsafe (or be damaged) if the plug were removed. I'm not at all sure that a court would find that unreasonable - there are countless examples of safe (as sold, 'as a whole') products that would become unsafe (or liable to damage) if a bit of the product (as sold) were removed.
But I was assuming that what one does after removing the plug is safe and compliant.
Never assume :) 'Compliant' with what? In order to have a good case, one would presumably have to comply with the manufacturer's (implicit or explicit) warning that the product might become unsafe (or be damaged) if not protected by an external OPD of &#8804;13A. If one had complied with that, I agree that there would really be no grounds for any 'wriggling' about the warranty.

Kind Regards, John
 
I imagine they would say that, as sold, the product as a whole (including a moulded plug) was 'intrinsically safe', and that they had (assuming they had!) supplied the product with a warning that it might become unsafe (or be damaged) if the plug were removed. I'm not at all sure that a court would find that unreasonable - there are countless examples of safe (as sold, 'as a whole') products that would become unsafe (or liable to damage) if a bit of the product (as sold) were removed.
I think I'd want them to field an expert witness to show how removing the plug and correctly terminating the flex into an FCU, or a flex outlet plate supplied by an FCU, either damaged their product or made it liable to damage which would not have occurred had the plug been left on.


'Compliant' with what?
Any applicable regulations and best practice.


In order to have a good case, one would presumably have to comply with the manufacturer's (implicit or explicit) warning that the product might become unsafe (or be damaged) if not protected by an external OPD of &#8804;13A. If one had complied with that, I agree that there would really be no grounds for any 'wriggling' about the warranty.
Well - I'm not allowed to use the 'a' word.

But I will point out that the context of this discussion is the connection of the appliance to an an FCU or a flex outlet plate supplied by an FCU, and that one would have no grounds for expecting someone competent to install those accessories to not use an appropriate fuse.
 

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