An exhausting revelation!

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I thought I had seen most things, but.....
Kia C'eed, 07 plate. Had to replace a flexible section of the exhaust, due to it leaking. It had flanged ends, two stainless studs on each end.
The original nuts, as expected were ferociously tight, so out with the gas axe and they wound off without too much trouble.
New dealer nuts (12mm metric fine, 20 mm long) purchased and screwed on.
Again, these were tighter than expected but I persevered ....and then the inevitable happened - the stud sheared off.
I managed to sort the job with an ordinary nut and bolt, but it transpires that when fitting these new nuts, they must be heated up to red heat too - and it usually takes 3 reheats :eek:
Live and learn! :p
John :)
 
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What's the idea behind that John? Locking the nuts on? Seems a bit OTT. Anything on an exhaust usually needs heat to get it off anyway!
 
I wish I knew.....here's me thinking I had bought the wrong nuts, but they were correct. Having 20mm of thread didn't help me either!
I can understand the Simmons locking nut principle but this was extreme.....even taking the originals off was stressing the exhaust system quite badly!
It was a Kia mechanic that put me right - with a knowing grin, of course :p
John :)
 
Its getting worse John, I think they are trying to stop lesser mortals like me repairing their own cars. Mind you I do remember an HA Viva van I had that you had to remove the manifolds to get the starter out. :eek:

Peter
 
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It was the HA that had the torque tube that made replacing the joints on the prop shaft interesting as well wasn't it?
There were loads of those vans around down here 30 years ago. Ex GPO.

Back to the nuts. Can't see why they would make them that awkward when they could just use Simmons nuts. Must complicate assembly. Probably pre heated with induction and whacked on at high speed by the robot!
The only other thing I can think of that possibly used "tight nuts" (and I'm sure there are many) Is the bolt up frames on some British motorbikes. I think (and it is think) that I remember reading something about some of them being special tight nuts that weren't meant to be taken apart by mere mortals.
 
Didn't know they had a torque tube or can't remember more likely. I did change a clutch on one though. My first car a 1939 Ford Prefect had one as did I believe the Peugeot 404 I had some years later.

Peter
 
I never had one, but a couple of friends did and both had to do that job and roundly cursed it.
I helped a mate do a clutch on one of the HA cars. Long time ago now. I remember it was a very hot day as much as anything!
 
The easiest way to do the HA van clutch was to take the engine out, piece of cake.
 
Stainless is the Devil's own material - and totally unsuitable for making threaded fasteners from because it galls-up so readily! I really don't know why manufacturers do this. I wonder if it might have been better running a die nut down the studs before trying to fit the new nuts? Were the nuts stainless as well, by the way, or had thy put mild steel (bright zinc plated) ones on to the stainless studs?
 
The problem I was faced with was made more difficult because I don't have any metric fine dies......loads of coarse ones, naturally!
The original nuts had much corrosion on them - in fact I was lucky to get a socket to fit. The new nuts I guess are carbon steel.
Also, a 20mm nut length wasn't the best! A simple enough job made bloomin' difficult.
John :)
 
Not that I do loads of that sort of work these days, but I don't think I can remember needing metric fine taps / dies.
Now I've done it! :)
Wonder why the long nuts? Easier assembly?
 
I've come across metric fine stuff a few times, but only on exhausts car wise so the reason is unclear to me! I have many taps and dies, but none of these.
These Kia nuts.....about 20mm long, threaded all the way, but only half has the hexagon, so it can fit within the flange.
I'll not get caught again - I'll just heat them up again as the Kia guy said!
John :)
 
Mild steel in electrical contact with stainless - under a car where it will get wet...

...Mmmmmm.

I can't believe car manufacturers haven't cottoned-on to electrolytic corrosion yet!
 
Mild steel in electrical contact with stainless - under a car where it will get wet...

...Mmmmmm.

I can't believe car manufacturers haven't cottoned-on to electrolytic corrosion yet!

At one time the car bodywork seemed to be a sacrificial anode! :)
 
I!
The only other thing I can think of that possibly used "tight nuts" (and I'm sure there are many) Is the bolt up frames on some British motorbikes. I think (and it is think) that I remember reading something about some of them being special tight nuts that weren't meant to be taken apart by mere mortals.
Maybe bolted sub frames - seen sockets and tubes on brit stuff. Villiers Flywheel Hammertite spanner, made to be hit with a 2lb. ball pein ;)
 
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