Cooker Broken Timer

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I've a Smeg a1 Gas/Electric range cooker, which has an EL145 timer which has broken (no display, but is energised). The Ignition for the gas burners is fed separately so thats ok. BUT the oven is now inop. Is it safe to bypass the timer, if so how. Any help most welcome. I have Basic multimeter skills,
 
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Thanks, but the model no from espares is Stoves Timer Programmer El145/302.44A, and the one on my Smeg is El145/251.24A.
 
In March 2007 ‘oldtrainee’ had a problem which seems identical to one I have now...

My 10-year-old Smeg A1 gas/electric range cooker with an EL145 timer/programmer has no timer/programmer display (but is energised). All oven functions are inoperative.
Is the fault definitely with the timer/programmer? Is it safe to temporarily bypass the timer, and if so, how? There are four connections to the unit, two of which are linked. A successful bypass would show that it really is a timer/programmer fault and I would feel more confident in replacing it at a cost of £100+.

‘Chri5’ suggested obtaining the replacement the component from the espares website, but ‘oldtrainee’ couldn’t track down one with an identical part number. Did he fix his cooker satisfactorily?
 
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In March 2007 ‘oldtrainee’ had a problem which seems identical to one I have now...

I also had a problem with a timer on a New World Twinline 3001 oven/ Grill.

The timer has a similar (not exact) part number to yours.

The display went blank, and the oven would no longer operate.

By looking at the specification sheet for the timer, it appears the models vary chiefly on the series resistors installed in the mains supply. On the New World, the mains power goes through a 5.6K resistor both on the live and Neutral, making a total mains series resistance of 11.2K. Newer models presumably consume less power so need different series resistors.

Anyway, I managed to fix my timer. There was a relay, three resistors, a zero-ohm link, an ASIC (Application-specific integrated circuit) chip and an electrolytic capacitor.

Electrolytic capacitors tend to 'dry' over time. In other words, they wear out. The relay is usually in one state and not subject to wear. The resistors checked out OK with an ohmmeter. ASIC semiconductor chips tend to be very reliable. They only fail in times of surge etc, and the mains series resistors would definitely prevent that! This left prime suspect #1. The electrolytic capacitor.

The capacitor on the board was a 220uF 25V radial 125 centigrade electrolytic. These are extremely common components. Any radial electrolytic of 220uF and equal or greater than 25v, and with adequate temperature endurance will do.

I couldn't find anything over 85 centigrade endurance in my electronics box. Bearing in mind my cooker has a cooling fan, and the panel never feels hot, I took the chance on my 85 centigrade capacitor. Rated 220uF 63v.

De-soldered the original capacitor, and making sure I have the polarity correct, soldered the new one in. Polished the display, and all working like new!

I planned that if this did not fix the timer, I would short the relay connections to the timer.

Hope this helps!


Nick.
 
Hey Nick,

This is exactly the problem I had on my Creda cooker timer.
Your fix worked a treat and ended up a 54 pence fix rather than a replacement timer at well over £100. :D

Steven
 
In March 2007 ‘oldtrainee’ had a problem which seems identical to one I have now...

I also had a problem with a timer on a New World Twinline 3001 oven/ Grill.

The timer has a similar (not exact) part number to yours.

The display went blank, and the oven would no longer operate.

By looking at the specification sheet for the timer, it appears the models vary chiefly on the series resistors installed in the mains supply. On the New World, the mains power goes through a 5.6K resistor both on the live and Neutral, making a total mains series resistance of 11.2K. Newer models presumably consume less power so need different series resistors.

Anyway, I managed to fix my timer. There was a relay, three resistors, a zero-ohm link, an ASIC (Application-specific integrated circuit) chip and an electrolytic capacitor.

Electrolytic capacitors tend to 'dry' over time. In other words, they wear out. The relay is usually in one state and not subject to wear. The resistors checked out OK with an ohmmeter. ASIC semiconductor chips tend to be very reliable. They only fail in times of surge etc, and the mains series resistors would definitely prevent that! This left prime suspect #1. The electrolytic capacitor.

The capacitor on the board was a 220uF 25V radial 125 centigrade electrolytic. These are extremely common components. Any radial electrolytic of 220uF and equal or greater than 25v, and with adequate temperature endurance will do.

I couldn't find anything over 85 centigrade endurance in my electronics box. Bearing in mind my cooker has a cooling fan, and the panel never feels hot, I took the chance on my 85 centigrade capacitor. Rated 220uF 63v.

De-soldered the original capacitor, and making sure I have the polarity correct, soldered the new one in. Polished the display, and all working like new!

I planned that if this did not fix the timer, I would short the relay connections to the timer.

Hope this helps!


Nick.

Many thanks for info. Changed capacitor (44p from Maplin) on my Ariston cooker timer and it now works a treat. Saved me cost of new timer @ £85.
 
and stopping oven from working. Followed tip in this post and replaced capacitor and lo and behold I have avoided spending £600 on a new oven MANY MANY Thanks !!
 
I did as Nick suggested and replaced the 220uF electrolytic capacitor on the timer board of my Stoves oven - 54p from Maplins! It is now working perfectly! First turn off the electrical supply to the oven. Remove the screws holding the front panel in place (3 on the Stoves 720EF), then 4 more to get the next panel off. Getting at the capacitor is a bit fiddly, and required easing the digital display forward slightly to get the soldering iron onto the joints. The whole PCB can be removed by removing 5 spade connectors - marking where each goes is to be recommended. Solder new capacitor into place, observing correct polarity, then reassemble. Switch on the power and hopefully everything should be working.[/b]
 
The timer on my Stoves 720EF conked out rendering the both ovens useless, although the grill still worked.

I had a sinking feeling that I'd have to cough up £600 for a new oven (or maybe eat microwave lasagne for ever more).

I googled the problem and found Nick Hill's solution.
Worked like a charm.

Thanks, Nick. I could buy you £599's worth of beer and still have saved myself money.

Ozzy.
 
I also had a similar problem and was able to fix it following the advice from nickhill. This saved me the exorbitant cost of a new timer. However Maplin do not appear to stock this capacitor at 125 degree rating. I did obtain the exact specification from RS, but I had to buy five. So if anybody needs one I have four to give away. *****
Many thanks nickhill for the valuable advice.
 
I also had a similar problem and was able to fix it following the advice from nickhill. This saved me the exorbitant cost of a new timer. However Maplin do not appear to stock this capacitor at 125 degree rating. I did obtain the exact specification from RS, but I had to buy five. So if anybody needs one I have four to give away. *****
Many thanks nickhill for the valuable advice.

Hi Bean0. I have a problem with a TECHNIKA oven in that the clock has started to flash and no time can be set so the oven will not work. Is this like the problem that you had or anyone else out there?
Should have said CLOCK TIMER.
 
Hello, kerryg,
. I am not familiar with the timer used by TECHNIKA, however I imagine that apart from appearance, most are fundamentally the same inside.
Yes, mine was flashing and could not be set to switch the cooker on. So unless bypassed in some way the complete appliance was useless. The advice on this thread from NICKHILL is spot on . If you have a little skill with soldering electronics, the repair is simple and cheap. good luck.
Beano1939.
 
Just wanted to thank NickHill for his tip to replace 220microfarad cap on timer. My Stoves cooker had dead timer, oven and top oven. Engineer said it was the timer but couldn't source a new one. I am replacing entire kitchen in a month or so , so didn't want to spend money on fixing cooker, but couldn't manage without oven for so long.

So, 59p for a Maplin 220 microfarad/100v/105c ... two minutes with a soldering iron and. Ta Daaaa!!! Job done!.. Thanks again!!!

Mullardman (Col)

PS, didn't even disconnect anything. Obviously switched off at wall. Just freed timer from cooker frame (plastic push lugs) and timer from its plastic case. (More lugs) Dead easy.
 
In March 2007 ‘oldtrainee’ had a problem which seems identical to one I have now...

EL145 timer/programmer has no timer/programmer display (but is energised). All oven functions are inoperative.
Is it safe to temporarily bypass the timer, and if so, how? There are four connections to the unit, two of which are linked.

Bypassing the timer is possible. My timer is EL145/253.121. Looking at the timer from the back side there are two pins horizontally on the ringt side and two pins on the left side vertically. One above the other. These two should be removed and connected by a metal piece, similar to the original pin. Do insulate by electric tape. Owen will work.

Hungary
 
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