So for option 3, would a 1:40 fall transverse on that section, along with the existing 1:60 longitudinal fall on the same section be too much?
Should we be ruling out option 2 completely?
Garden Wall Project - help required
- Thread starter spiidey
- Start date
So for option 3, would a 1:40 fall transverse on that section, along with the existing 1:60 longitudinal fall on the same section be too much?
Should we be ruling out option 2 completely?
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You will find it very difficult to meet a section of paving that falls one way against another with two falls when laying slabs without having diagonal cuts like you would see on pavements when they come to a crossing or dropped kerb.
If you don't use diagonal cuts (which look awful) then you have to gradually bluff the slabs to take up the difference but you will end up with little lips at th edges of flags which will be noticable and perhaps a slight trip hazard depending on how well/ badly you do it
20mm is not enough.
Do as i suggested with the sub base or try the extra fall, i would rather rake back the sub base and have it all right.
If you don't use diagonal cuts (which look awful) then you have to gradually bluff the slabs to take up the difference but you will end up with little lips at th edges of flags which will be noticable and perhaps a slight trip hazard depending on how well/ badly you do it
20mm is not enough.
Do as i suggested with the sub base or try the extra fall, i would rather rake back the sub base and have it all right.
Ok, we're going to scrape the sub-base back to get between 30-40mm for the mortar bed. Your last comment struck a chord - we've spent too long on this to get it wrong so an extra day or so to scrape the sub base back a little is worth it to get the job right.
How uniform does the sub base need to be in terms of levels I.e. How much of a tolerance in depth is there allowed to be, away from our target 40mm for the mortar bed
I.e. is the sub base allowed to deviate +/-5mm from this (so a 35-45mm depth of mortar)? Or +/-10mm giving a 30-50mm depth of mortar?
I.e. is the sub base allowed to deviate +/-5mm from this (so a 35-45mm depth of mortar)? Or +/-10mm giving a 30-50mm depth of mortar?
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So if going for a 40mm bed, then -10mm (so 30mm) up to +10mm (so 50mm) if definitely ok?
deleted.
Have laid some flags on a wet mix mortar and ended up with what I'm pretty sure looks like the "picture framing" phenomenon.
Is there anything that can be done with this, other than lifting the flags back up and relaying fresh ones?
Is there anything that can be done with this, other than lifting the flags back up and relaying fresh ones?
Some pics attached.
Its hard to see on the images, there is no cure for picture framing. depending on the flag they do sometimes fade but with some they don't so much.
A bit of weathering will hide the worst of it. If you have spare flags and cant live with it then relay them.
A bit of weathering will hide the worst of it. If you have spare flags and cant live with it then relay them.
Thanks r896neo. Yeah for some reason the pics aren't coming out well in terms of contrast.
These ones taken later this evening seem to demonstrate it a bit better (see below). It is quite bad so I think we're going to have to lift them.
On reflection, the mortar mix I had used was quite wet, definitely a wet mix with high slump. Could this be the issue? Ie would a moist or semi dry mix solve the problem?
These ones taken later this evening seem to demonstrate it a bit better (see below). It is quite bad so I think we're going to have to lift them.
On reflection, the mortar mix I had used was quite wet, definitely a wet mix with high slump. Could this be the issue? Ie would a moist or semi dry mix solve the problem?
A couple of queries:-
1. How long does a "moist mix" of 8:1 mortar remain workable before it goes off?
2. Do we need any haunching around the perimeter (red line of image below) of where we intend paving?
LINK TO ORIGINAL HQ IMAGE:- http://i60.tinypic.com/11hz4so.jpg
1. How long does a "moist mix" of 8:1 mortar remain workable before it goes off?
2. Do we need any haunching around the perimeter (red line of image below) of where we intend paving?
LINK TO ORIGINAL HQ IMAGE:- http://i60.tinypic.com/11hz4so.jpg
Anyone able to help with this.
Remarkably, the "picture framing" seems to have disappeared following rain!!!
Remarkably, the "picture framing" seems to have disappeared following rain!!!
No need to haunch really if laying on a wet mix. its worth a little haunch but nothing major.
You really want to lay your slabs near the steps on a wet mix or you risk them not bonding well. Using SBr or the bond bridge technique on paving expert will also help.
Picture framing can be avoided by making sure the slabs are a little damp and kept damp as laying proceeds. this stops them absorbing water and therefore cement. It more commonly a pointing problem though.
A moist mix will be usable for 3ish hours depending on conditions.
You really want to lay your slabs near the steps on a wet mix or you risk them not bonding well. Using SBr or the bond bridge technique on paving expert will also help.
Picture framing can be avoided by making sure the slabs are a little damp and kept damp as laying proceeds. this stops them absorbing water and therefore cement. It more commonly a pointing problem though.
A moist mix will be usable for 3ish hours depending on conditions.
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