Which consumer unit to buy

Hi all,

This is my first post.
I am looking to replace my consumer unit. I need it moving anyway as I am moving a wall in my cupboard to make my bathroom larger so I might as well upgrade to a good one, the one that is installed is one from Wickes.

I would like to know which are the best makes? I know of MK and Crabtree but are there any others you guys have used that you are impressed with? I would like something well made and safe. I don't

Also, I would like to include as much protection as I can and have an RCD on all circuits. Is this overkill or good planning? I would also like to increase the number of circuits to include circuits to feed my shed and a porch I am planning on adding.

I know this is part P so I need to report it first, with plans, to building control which I will do, just getting my plans straight before I do it.
I am an electronics engineer by training so I am OK handling electrical circuits/wiring etc.

thanks in advance for any advice as to what to get.

The major problem is the requirements with amendment 3 for metal consumer units means new units are coming out weekly which will comply with the new regulations keeping up with the market is therefore hard.

Using RCBO's does seem the best option with every circuit on it's own RCD (RCBO is a RCD and MCB combined) and the price of a RCBO varies make to make.

I fitted a consumer unit and the major problem was the MCB's could not be replaced without slacking off terminals to all the MCB's on the buzz bar. Also the terminals do not hold open. So in resisted room it is easy to have the buzz bar pressing against the terminal rather than being clamped. It would seem this has caused a lot of fires.

The industry is redressing the problem and where the consumer unit is prepared on the bench then one can see that all is good only when working in a restricted space is there a problem.

At the moment we see consumer units advertised by manufacturers but they are not as yet in the whole sale outlets and very few have stud the test of time as they are all new.

ericmark said:

The major problem is the requirements with amendment 3 for metal consumer units means new units are coming out weekly ...

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As you know, Amendement 3 of BS7671 requires that new CUs be made of "non-combustible" materials, seemingly defined per BS EN 61439-3, not specifically metal. As you say, manufacturers are responding by bring out new ranges, and it remains to be seen what materials they will be made of, metal or otherwise.

Kind Regards, John

thanks for the info ericmark. Looks like its a bit of a minefield out there at the moment. How long do you think it will take before things settle down with these new regulations?
Also, what was the reason for requiring metal consumer units. Seems counter-intuitive with regards to insulation.
What are the good makes? I am a bit rusty on the new manufacturers.

JohnW2 said:

ericmark said:

The major problem is the requirements with amendment 3 for metal consumer units means new units are coming out weekly ...

Click to expand...

As you know, Amendement 3 of BS7671 requires that new CUs be made of "non-combustible" materials, seemingly defined per BS EN 61439-3, not specifically metal. As you say, manufacturers are responding by bring out new ranges, and it remains to be seen what materials they will be made of, metal or otherwise.

Kind Regards, John

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thanks john, that answered my last question.

degsy41 said:

thanks for the info ericmark. Looks like its a bit of a minefield out there at the moment. How long do you think it will take before things settle down with these new regulations?

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The new regulation requiring all new CUs be be constructed on non-combustible materials comes into force on 1st January 2016, so hopefully the market will be reasonably clarified by then.

degsy41 said:

Also, what was the reason for requiring metal consumer units. Seems counter-intuitive with regards to insulation.

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It apparently arose (seemingly due to strong lobbying from the Fire Service) because of the alleged number of fires involving, or originating in, CUs. However, I personally share your concerns - there are almost certainly downsides, particularly of electric shock (and particularly to inexperienced people doing things within CUs), and I am far from convinced that that any benefit in terms of fires will outweigh those increased risks. However, who am I (or you) to question the wisdom of the regs?!

Kind Regards, John

thanks John.
So, if the CU was installed before Jan 2016 then it will be OK to be a standard plastic one?

Have you guys got any experience with Contactum, Hager and Wylex?
I am looking for a 8 or 12 way flush CU that takes RCBOs.
Also, is it better to have a dual RCD 17th edition or RCBOs on all circuits.

degsy41 said:

thanks John. So, if the CU was installed before Jan 2016 then it will be OK to be a standard plastic one?

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Regulation-wise, yes. However, it might be foolish to do that, since for evermore (after 1st Jan 2016) inspections of the installation would probably include 'rude comments' about the CU 'not being up to current standards' (although there would be no regulatory requirements to upgrade it).

Having said that, I feel sure that there will still be plenty of pre-2016 CU's in service in 20, 30 or more years' time!

Kind Regards, John

degsy41 said:

I know this is part P so I need to report it first, with plans, to building control which I will do

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Everything is "Part P".



When you notify this you'll have to describe how you will ensure compliance with it.

I am an electronics engineer by training so I am OK handling electrical circuits/wiring etc.

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That does not mean that you necessarily know all you need to know to do this sort of work.

What do you plan to do regarding testing, and BS 7671 certification?

And these

degsy41 said:

I would like to include as much protection as I can and have an RCD on all circuits. Is this overkill or good planning?

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degsy41 said:

thanks for the info ericmark. Looks like its a bit of a minefield out there at the moment.

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betoken a lack of awareness of design, and of the current version of the Wiring Regulations.

degsy41 said:

I am looking for a 8 or 12 way flush CU that takes RCBOs.

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Flush CUs are much less common than standard surface-mounted ones.

degsy41 said:

Also, is it better to have a dual RCD 17th edition or RCBOs on all circuits.

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It's difficult to argue with the view that all-RCBO is always preferable. However, it's still appreciably more expensive (the price differential varying between makes).

When everything is working satisfactorily, there's probably not much to choose between MCBs+RCDs and RCBOs. However, if a fault arises, it will be less widely disruptive, and often easier to diagnose, with RCBOs. Furthermore, RCBOs may also reduce the incidence of 'nuisance RCD trips' - many electronic things cause small degrees of earth leakage (largely due to their filter capacitors), and that can sometimes add up, across circuits, to enough to occasionally trip an RCD which is covering half of the installation. That's less likely if each circuit has its own RCBO (effectively it's own RCD).

Kind Regards, John

Thanks a lot for the advice guys. Much appreciated.

If you are after a flush fitting unit, loaded with RCBOS, Then Wylex do a skeleton board that suits this application, the model type would depend on number of ways required (and I would advise a couple of spare ways).

With regards to part p, as already mentioned all domestic electrical work has to be compliant to part p, whether notifiable or not.

With regards to installation, you really need to have a full grasp of what you are doing and how to comply the the requirements.

Building controls do charge a fee for notification, this can be quiet hefty depending on council charges (many are different).

When it comes to the inspection, testing and certification, you will need to use calibrated test equipment to carry out the tests, which you will have about 9 tests per circuit to carry out, plus bonding, Ze, PFC.
You can hire the equipment, but you need to understand how to use the meter and the reading you get. Plus how you document this in certificate.

And based on what you have so far posted, I doubt at this time you should consider yourselves responsible enough to undertake this work unsupervised. Sorry if that sounds harsh and no disrespect to you.

Hager make the nicest boards imo.

They have some Ammendment 3 stuff abvailable and some skeleton/flush boards but from skimmin their catalogue I can't see one that fits both (despite the intro saying their A3 boards come in flush and surface)

I in 2000 had worked as an electrician for many years. But more and more people were asking for the 16th edition qualification so when BS7671:2001 came out I decided it was time to up-grade my qualifications so I did a set of courses at night class 16th Edition (C&G2381), PAT testing, and installation testing (C&G2391) the first two were really easy but the 2391 was a real eye opener. I realised for years I had been doing things wrong and shamed to admit it but danger could have resulted in the way I tested.

Since then I have had to upgrade to 17th Edition (C&G2382) which to be frank tests if you can read.

I was in the main industrial and the distribution units used had loads of space to work in and there was very little chance of error fitting components but the domestic market is very different. Main thing is down time does not cost money with domestic so the idea of buying high quality to reduce down time is not considered. Everything seems to hinge on price.

Paying £750 for test equipment seems rather a lot of money. To hire means recalibrated after every hire so also tends to be expensive last time minimum one week at £75 a week.

Working with the LABC is also a mine field it would seem there is no reason why you should not inspect and test yourself and the LABC inspector in theroy should come and do a quick test to satisfy himself you have valid results. He likely measures the ELI and checks if his result matches yours. But that means the LABC inspector has to be able to electrical test and when I came to use them they were not trained how to test so their only option was to farm out the work.

As a result it took some persuading before he would allow me to inspect and test. Having the test set in plain view did show we at least had the meters required. He would not let my son do testing but did allow me it would seem because I had a degree which to be frank did not mean I could test and inspect.

If you don't do your own testing and inspecting then it's an open cheque book. Every time a third party inspector calls he can charge on top of the LABC fees so if he finds anything wrong then that's yet another fee.

In England third party inspectors can do the whole job and notify the LABC without paying the LABC as well but they have to be involved from the start.

Problem is time taken to inspect and test is longer than time taken to do the job so again fees get silly. In the main it would seem third party inspectors do repeat work for same installer so for example the kitchen fitting firm will have one guy who can do third party inspections so the kitchen fitters do all the work and then the electrician signs off their work. There is clearly some trust involved and likely he does not test every last thing.

To my mind to pay some one else £500 to test your work means it's simply not worth doing DIY for notifiable work. You really have two options.
1) Get a scheme member to do the work.
2) Break the law.
The only exception is where the LABC is already involved. So for example building an extension to house then likely as long as you tick right boxes there will not be any extra charge to include electrics, also work for the disabled again no LABC charge but in most cases the charges are just silly.