Am I allow to do this?

Agile said:
Its better to drain out the system or otherwise flush it out but dont bother about the neutraliser yet.

Keep it until you are satisfied with the result and then use it before a final flush and the addition of X100 inhibitor.

Tony
Thanks Tony,

I already have the Sentinel x100 and x200 and will put it in together when the system is cleaned.
 
Sponsored Links
Do NOT add the X200 !!!!

It will not be necessary if what we (you) are going to do is successful!

Tony
 
Ahh, okay, I'm been doing some search here and PVM recommended to put both in together, so I leave out the x200 completely then.

I got the x100 and x200 last month.

Will it do any harm or will it be a waste of time?
 
Does anyone know the answer to above?

Will it do any harm or more damaged as I have already got the Sentinel X200?

Agile

I can't get your website to open up in your profile, are you aware of it?
 
Sponsored Links
Do I hear the shout for a heat exchanger removal corgiman?

I love doing them!

Hour in the sun with a block of cast iron..... with me D block and ds40?

Take that anyday over sweating me nuts off wondering when my condensate pipe has to go.

David
 
Don't bother with the fenox stuff get some kamco fx2. It's a powerfull descaller. It works a treat. and it's cheaper.
 
If you have taken the HE out of the boiler then you might as well use HCl as its cheaper and more effective. ( Sorry Keith )

BUT its potentially dangerous for anyone unable to handle acids or who does not have an understanding of their use.

I am NOT recomending anyone to use it !

Tony
 
Just bought an 8 yrs old Potterton Kingfisher Rs80 model on ebay for £53 :!:

The difference is, the Rs80 have 4 section of heat exchanger as with Rs60 have 3 section, (same part number) will strip it down and overhaul it for a spare heat exchanger :D

They are now unavailable from Potterton and would've cost over £900 :eek:

Others suppliers are still available while stock last, price differ from £483 to £690 :eek:

Me think, I got a bargain :D
 
I think that you have wasted £53 ( plus all the transport costs ) when all that is required is a little time to do the chemical treatment.

We find that this is very common with DIYers. They love to rush off at tangents and spend hours doing irrelevant things instead of following the simple professional advice!

Have you got the gaskets to reassemble the HE? Can you drill out and retap a bolt or stud if its snaps off?

Oh yes, and of course changing the HE should only be done by a CORGI registered person. You have earlier implied that you did not want to do anything that you should not be touching!

Tony Glazier
 
Agile said:
I think that you have wasted £53 ( plus all the transport costs )
Not sure about that! The journey was only 14 miles to pick it up and having a spare one ready in my view is not bad idea! So far, I'm now £3000 better off.
when all that is required is a little time to do the chemical treatment
I'm afraid some plumbers don't give out good advice like you :cry:
We find that this is very common with DIYers. They love to rush off at tangents and spend hours doing irrelevant things instead of following the simple professional advice!
I had 3 professional plumber advice/quote and 2 of them said my heat exchanger is causing the restricted flow to pump over to the F&E tank after 2 brand new boiler stat fitted. Would mean a new boiler because the heat exchanger is normally pitted(?), so I thought if I can find a heat exchanger at a reasonable cost, it's gamble, my choice considering the quote I had was from £2900 to £ 3700 for a Mexico boiler including power flush etc. After all that, it was a 3rd faulty boiler stat :eek: :mad: Cost £12.85 and the pumping over to the F&E tank stopped immediately I put the new one in and after I bought the 2nd hand heat exchanger. I don't mind paying my hard dosh for a new boiler or whatever but only when it's necessary.
Have you got the gaskets to reassemble the HE?
These heat exchangers don't have gaskets, they have 8 x 'O' rings, which I have on standby with 12mm ceramic rope and rope glue.
Can you drill out and retap a bolt or stud if its snaps off?
No need, this heat exchanger is straight forward with stud bolt on the outside of the casing. If the stud bracket do snaps off, I'll get it welded
Oh yes, and of course changing the HE should only be done by a CORGI registered person. You have earlier implied that you did not want to do anything that you should not be touching!
Oh yes sir, that's correct. I stand by my words, I will not be touching it.

I'm still in love with my 26 yrs old boiler, she's a lovely model & I don't want to be unfaithful like 2 sh*gs :LOL:

I don't like these PCB electronic stuff, maybe I getting old :eek: :)
 
I do hope you will try my advice first. I cannot guarantee that it will work but its so easy to do that its well worth trying first!

Pitting is removal of the surface! That will not restrict flow! It can also in theory cause kettling noises if its very severe but I have never encountered that.

I dont see how faulty thermoststs can cause your problems and certainly would not expect a single faulty new one but never two in a row!

I will repeat my advice:-

Its very likely to be limescale left in the boiler HE. You can try to remove this by closing all the rad valves, you dont want this in them! Add Fernox DS3 which is sulphamic acid and is the appropriate chemical to dissolve limescale.

Use about 1/3 can of DS3 and run the system at about 60°C on hot water demand and slowly increase the temperature to max over an hour. You will probably need to turn your cylinder stat up to keep the boiler on. Leave in and working for at least 2-3 hours and then drain and refill and see how it seems. If its better then drain off and repeat with another 1/3 can. That will probably be enough but if the drained off water is still very cloudy after the second time then repeat with the last 1/3.

That will probably solve the problem if you have already used citric acid and successfully dissolved all the metalic oxides on your earlier attempts.

Any acidic treatment can sometimes cause an old HE to leak. Thats the risk one takes but you now have a spare anyway.

Tony
 
Agile said:
I do hope you will try my advice first. I cannot guarantee that it will work but its so easy to do that its well worth trying first!
Without a doubt, I'm following your advice. :D
Pitting is removal of the surface! That will not restrict flow! It can also in theory cause kettling noises if its very severe but I have never encountered that.
That's what I thought, I'm still learning :!:
I dont see how faulty thermoststs can cause your problems and certainly would not expect a single faulty new one but never two in a row!
I did put the old boiler stat back in and it started to pumped over again, the boiler would not shutdown, kept going until the heat exchanger boiled but it was nowhere near as bad as it was, so maybe a combination of everything, stat, sludge, scale, restricted partial blocked on the feed side. My middle name is going to be unlucky from now on :LOL:
Its very likely to be limescale left in the boiler HE. You can try to remove this by closing all the rad valves, you dont want this in them! Add Fernox DS3 which is sulphamic acid and is the appropriate chemical to dissolve limescale.
I'm doing this on Friday after I've drained the Fernox DS-40.
Use about 1/3 can of DS3 and run the system at about 60°C on hot water demand and slowly increase the temperature to max over an hour. You will probably need to turn your cylinder stat up to keep the boiler on. Leave in and working for at least 2-3 hours and then drain and refill and see how it seems. If its better then drain off and repeat with another 1/3 can. That will probably be enough but if the drained off water is still very cloudy after the second time then repeat with the last 1/3.
When you say 1/3 can, I have the 2kg Fernox DS-3 tub, do you mean 1/3 of the 2kg tub?

Really appreciate your help Tony :D

I'm having trouble to gain access to your website for info, do you cover Southend area from London?
 

DIYnot Local

Staff member

If you need to find a tradesperson to get your job done, please try our local search below, or if you are doing it yourself you can find suppliers local to you.

Select the supplier or trade you require, enter your location to begin your search.


Are you a trade or supplier? You can create your listing free at DIYnot Local

 
Sponsored Links
Back
Top