Insulating boiler ?

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Derbyshire
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I've been asked by a friend to make an insulated 'box' to go around his boiler in the loft. He says that the cold in the loft is making it come on more than is necessary. Is it safe (he's been told it is !) to do this, or is the thermostat separate so only that needs covering ? I'm a woodworker, not a plumber or electrician, so if a box is not the way to go then he'll have to look elsewhere!

Pics of the boiler and controls...

22-9-06117.jpg


22-9-06124.jpg
 
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That's a cheap boiler , but it might have its own frost stat. If not, then ok, foil backed plasterboard around it perhaps. In the South of England it diesn't get cold enough to bother if the boiler has its own stat.

If the boiler's coming on too much the frost stat arrangement is pants.
Rather than an air stat as shown (top one) which will never warm up when the boiler's on, if he used a pipe stat to always keep the return pipe at say 10ºC, nothing would freeze, and the radiators in the house wouldn't get warm enough to be a bother at night.
 
And it's illegal to leave the filling loop connected when it's not being used to fill the system.
 
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is it safe to have filling loop connected all the time? i do it has two non return valves and valves surely nothing can get past those?
 
kevplumb said:
oilman said:
And it's illegal to leave the filling loop connected when it's not being used to fill the system.

its not illegal its against the regs ;)

OK, leave yours connected then, who cares about the regs, bugger the safety of the mains water supply, bugger the gas regs too, who gives a stuff. ****ed if I care :rolleyes:

suffolklad, no it's not safe if you have the non-return valves leaking, and/or the filling valve letting by, and/or the PRV stuck, and/or the mains supply turned of by the water company for repairs.

You could either have an exploding expansion vessel, or you could get heating water back into your drinking water.

Believe me, all the above failures happen, and I have replaced valves for all of them.
 
It would be safe if he observes Ravenheat's instructions for fitting the boiler in a 'compartment'.

The installation manual will detail the minimum size of the compartment and if any ventilation is required. If ventilation is mandated by Ravenheat (we don't fit these - and it will be a sad day if we do - so I don't know) then the insulation will have limited benefit.

You will also need to observe the 'clearances' section and allow for easy access for maintenance. The frost stat should then be moved to inside your compartment.
 
Thanks chaps ! I'll advise my mate about the loop. I was wondering about the ventilation for the unit, I don't want to cause more problems than I'm solving! I'd be much happier if I just need to insulate the 'control', or advise him to get a pipe stat fitted?
 
First check wjhether the boiler has a frost stat.

You might review the decision to have the programmer in the loft too!
And does that boiler have a low pressure switch? If not and you have a minor leak, the boiler will "dry fire" because it's at the top of the system, which won't do it much good.
 
They have a low water pressure switch and in built frost protection.
Also there is a terminal for an additional frost stat to protect the pipework right next to the room stat connections

Here's a quote from the instructions regarding your main question
The roomsealed fan flued boiler does not
require a permanent air vent for combustion
air supply;
Where installed in a cupboard or compartment
ventilation is not required.
 
Thanks chaps ! I'll pass on the remarks ! I'm just going to make the box out of 25mm polystyrene sheet and ply. I may suggest he gets someone to review the placement of the controls or addition of others.
 

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