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How to level a very uneven wooden subfloor! Or concrete/wood


 
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mattysupra

from United Kingdom

Joined: 30 Jan 2007
Posts: 2225
Location: West Midlands,
United Kingdom
Thanked: 50 times

PostPosted: Wed Jan 31, 2007 7:15 pm Reply with quote

First of all I don't recommend this for over a real solid wood floor whether nailed or glued. This is for standard floor boards / plywood / chipboard etc.


1- You need to plywood over existing floor using flooring grade / exterior graded plywood. This should be nailed / stapled at approx 6 inch centers and 2 inch centers around the edge (the more the better). YOU MUST USE RING SHANK NAILS OR DIVERGENT staples! Do not use panel pins.

2- Next caulk all joints and edges and gaps. Do not use silicon.

3- Prime plywood with f-ball 131 neoprene primer (neat)

4- Next you need to screed floor using f-ball 700 flex. This is a fibre-reinforced smoothing and leveling compound designed to flex. You could also use Uzin 175. Same product different manufacturer

5- Make sure you mix correct as on bag and put on at minimum 3mm. This stuff is really runny and you cant go wrong getting level. You can practically tip it in and let it level it self. As for where to buy products from you will have to try to source for yourselves, but most flooring wholesalers stock. Hope you all find this useful.


If part of the sub floor is wood and the other half is concrete/screed etc, follow the instructions above on the wooden side and just prime, fill in cracks etc on the concrete side. Next poor compound out and flow between the two different sub floors.

Read the instructions on how to use leveling compound for concrete For a bit more detail on the concrete side of things. Also you must use the flex compound over the whole floor and not a mix of different types of compound. ie acrylic then flex!

If the wooden side is flat and smooth already then you need to just plywood then part screed onto it with gentle ramp between compound and the plywood.


Last edited by mattysupra on Thu Jul 19, 2007 3:55 pm, edited 2 times in total
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congokeith (31 Mar 2012)
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ewans

from United Kingdom

Joined: 02 May 2006
Posts: 65
Location: Glasgow,
United Kingdom

PostPosted: Thu Feb 08, 2007 9:34 am Reply with quote

i followed mattysupra's instructions in this and his other post, worked a treat, some things i noticed:

- filling the gaps / cauking is essental, the leveing stuff really is like water
- mix the leveler very very well
- leave it for a few days to dry, untill its colour changes to light grey
- add sharp sand for bigger depths (per the instructions on the compound i used)

for where to get products, i just emailed f-ball with my post code and they send me the closest distributers contact details back.
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mattysupra

from United Kingdom

Joined: 30 Jan 2007
Posts: 2225
Location: West Midlands,
United Kingdom
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PostPosted: Thu Feb 08, 2007 7:06 pm Reply with quote

Thanks ewans. Glad your happy with outcome.
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Anthony30

from United Kingdom

Joined: 06 May 2007
Posts: 36
Location: Lancashire,
United Kingdom

PostPosted: Sun May 13, 2007 1:05 pm Reply with quote

Hi all,

Just to let people have more confidence in what Mattysupra has wrote about leveling a sub floor.

I have done it and all is well. One cock up is to make sure you have enough screed to cover the floor. I fell short by a very little bit but if I had enough I am sure the method Matty has wrote would have been spot on

Matty as shown, and appears, to be very knowledgeble about all this flooring business so I am sure if he tells you something you can have full confidence your job will finish correctly.

Cheers

Ant
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WoodYouLike

from United Kingdom

Joined: 14 Nov 2004
Posts: 7712
Location: Kent,
United Kingdom
Thanked: 211 times

PostPosted: Sun May 13, 2007 1:12 pm Reply with quote



Well done Ant (on both accounts)
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