Lining paper help

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Hi.We are just about to redecorate from top to bottom, and many of the walls and ceilings if not all need some work/repairs.I was thinking of using lining paper but how do I choose the correct grade?I have also heard of soaking the paper for ten mins in what paste?Do you not not paste it and apply to a sized wall?I would like to know the correct process and any help would be great thanks [ps have tried the search]
 
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lining paper grade depends on what condition the walls are in,
ie the worse state the walls are the thicker grade u use.

always try and fill up any holes , blemishes in the walls as best u can.

use solvite paste.

better to size walls first yes.

soak the paper till it feels pliable, normally 5-10 mins depending on grade again.

but more importantly soak each piece for the same amount of time.
 
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what percentage should you thin it down by,and when you say let it dry how long does that take on average.
Does this help with the adhesion of the paper.
Thanks in advance.
 
sizing seals the pourous surface of the plaster and stops it soaking up the paste before it gets a chance to dry. When this happens the paper may start to peel.

I'd say mix up the paste and then dilute it by 50% with water. paint it on and leave it till it feels dry. This depends on how pourous the wall is.


I'd use as thick a grade as I could every time. 1000 grade if possible. Its easier to handle as its less prone to tear when wet and its better at covering blemishes. just my personal preference though.

Something that is worth noting, when I last decorated, I used Q and B lining paper in some rooms and Wicke*s in others. Both 1000 grade and I found the former much easier to work with. Again, just my preference though.
 
When I soaking the paper how do I do this?Do I paste and leave for 5 to 10 mins.Or am I missing something. :?:
 
yes I agree with jime17 if you have walls like my house which is a 1920's house, you need good thick paper to cover up all the blemishes and helps with painting later on. Doesnt work miracles you can still see some lumps and bumps but a lot better.

I spent a week painting and sanding my walls and it just kept peeling off, so gave up after a lot of cursing and frustration and just put lining paper on then painted it and it worked excellent.

Used thick paper 1000 or maybe 1200 grade can not remember now and then just painted it, wish I had done that a week ago, would of saved me painting till 2 in the morning most nights and a 20litre bucket of paint to boot.

Happy Decorating !!!!!!!!!!!!!
 
Best way to do it is to size the walls the night before, mix up a watery paste and whack it on the walls.

Cut a length of the lining paper, paste one and fold it, leave it for approx 7-10 mins, then hang, make sure you paste the edges really well.
Just before your due to hang it, paste the next length, so you have one soaking.
 
The only word of warning id say about the thicker lining papers are the fact that they have a slightly bumpeir surface, more noticable when painted.

Id rather go for two layers of 800 then one 1400

They are normally ok if your papering over them...but if your painting over them you have to be careful

IMO 600 grade is the smoothest and is more suited to painting..but a bit trickier to put up.
 
Why is there not only one grade [thick] Would'nt this save trouble trying to work out what thickness to use to cover inperfections.Is there a benefit with getting away using a thinner paper?
 
I like the 800 grade.. far easier to sand and fill (when dry) any blemishes that show up and less likelyhood of paper pulling away from corners when drying out.. The thicker papers will show up imperfections more. Also thinner lining's can be feathered round badly plastered doorways/ hatches/ firplaces etc...but thats another story ;)
 
Just done 3 walls of our living room, using 1000 grade B&Q lining, the results were astounding for a first time job.

We applied it horizontally, and our aim is to emulsion it when the whole room is complete.
 

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