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galvanised windows

This topic originated from the How to page called Using the correct sealer and primer
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gordonfield

from United Kingdom

Joined: 17 Jul 2007
Posts: 1
Location: Cambridgeshire,
United Kingdom

PostPosted: Tue Jul 17, 2007 8:52 am Reply with quote

in the past, calcium plumbate primers, a mordant solution or zinc phosphate primers have been used before decoration with oil paints. What is now normally specified and used - any advice would be most welcome.
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Nige F

from United Kingdom

Joined: 28 Jun 2005
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PostPosted: Thu Jul 19, 2007 11:52 am Reply with quote

Thought they were for New galv. icon_confused.gif you haven`t got new Crittals ,have you.....how do they comply with part x of the "save the planet" energy conservation document icon_rolleyes.gif icon_lol.gif
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confidentincompetent

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PostPosted: Thu Jul 19, 2007 9:05 pm Reply with quote

For touching in bare galvanised sections, I found Zinnsser bulseye 123 excellent...topcoats wont flake off...

http://zinsser.com/product_detail.asp?ProductID=11

Though I find some things dont work like it says on the tin icon_wink.gif
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confidentincompetent

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PostPosted: Thu Jul 19, 2007 9:07 pm Reply with quote

Nige F wrote:
Thought they were for New galv. icon_confused.gif you haven`t got new Crittals ,have you.....how do they comply with part x of the "save the planet" energy conservation document icon_rolleyes.gif icon_lol.gif



Presscotts fked off now nige does it still apply icon_lol.gif
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Nige F

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PostPosted: Fri Jul 20, 2007 4:54 pm Reply with quote

All ov ze rules vill apply und more too kum..glad you said zinsser..I icon_idea.gif that too icon_wink.gif
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Third_Eye

from United Kingdom

Joined: 11 Apr 2006
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PostPosted: Fri Jul 20, 2007 5:49 pm Reply with quote

confidentincompetent wrote:
For touching in bare galvanised sections, I found Zinnsser bulseye 123 excellent...topcoats wont flake off...

http://zinsser.com/product_detail.asp?ProductID=11

Though I find some things dont work like it says on the tin icon_wink.gif


Yes "confidentincompetent" Zinsser should get there ar*e kicked for claiming it can do things when it CANNOT................
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hawthorns

from Ireland

Joined: 18 Feb 2006
Posts: 92
Location: Ireland

PostPosted: Sun Jul 22, 2007 9:28 pm Reply with quote

there is an etch primer called t-wash you paint it on and leave it to cure for 24 hours and under coat and gloss over it then
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billyo

from United Kingdom

Joined: 20 Jul 2007
Posts: 1515
Location: Cumbria,
United Kingdom

PostPosted: Mon Jul 23, 2007 8:13 pm Reply with quote

try temabond wg200 we are useing this now on old gal handrais for the department of transport and it is specified.
call protega coatings you could also used (temaprime mph.457)
phone PROTEGA COATINGS 0121 525 5665 THEY ARE COSTLY PAINTS
but do the job
by the way t.wash is not paint it is a acid and is not as good as they make out
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freddymercurystwin

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PostPosted: Mon Jul 23, 2007 8:44 pm Reply with quote

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Colin_p

from United Kingdom

Joined: 10 Jun 2007
Posts: 33
Location: Berkshire,
United Kingdom

PostPosted: Wed Jul 25, 2007 5:03 pm Reply with quote

When I did my crittals about 7 years ago, I stripped them back to metal and applied two coats of gloss straight on.

There were perfectly fine up untill a year ago when I had them ripped out and replaced with upvc.

There were only one or two areas that were problematical in terms of the paint coming off and this was where the opening casements met the frame and on the puttied areas. Other than that they still looked good so I'd say don't bother with mordant solutions or t washes.
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confidentincompetent

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PostPosted: Wed Jul 25, 2007 10:08 pm Reply with quote

Colin_p wrote:
When I did my crittals about 7 years ago, I stripped them back to metal and applied two coats of gloss straight on.

There were perfectly fine up untill a year ago when I had them ripped out and replaced with upvc.

There were only one or two areas that were problematical in terms of the paint coming off and this was where the opening casements met the frame and on the puttied areas. Other than that they still looked good so I'd say don't bother with mordant solutions or t washes.


You were soo lucky there colin.. I encounter quite a few jobs where galvanised objects such as crittals, garage doors etc have'nt been primed right. The worst being wrought gates/ railings where people have put 'Hammerite' ( icon_eek.gif ) strait onto galvanised. 2yrs later its all puckered up (salts) and flaking. Mordant solution is so easy but you have to coat over it before 24 hrs, Tried, tested and trusted by myself for more than 30 yrs. (oh dear should say 40 yrs now icon_cry.gif )
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Colin_p

from United Kingdom

Joined: 10 Jun 2007
Posts: 33
Location: Berkshire,
United Kingdom

PostPosted: Wed Jul 25, 2007 11:16 pm Reply with quote

confidentincompetent wrote:
Colin_p wrote:
When I did my crittals about 7 years ago, I stripped them back to metal and applied two coats of gloss straight on.

There were perfectly fine up untill a year ago when I had them ripped out and replaced with upvc.

There were only one or two areas that were problematical in terms of the paint coming off and this was where the opening casements met the frame and on the puttied areas. Other than that they still looked good so I'd say don't bother with mordant solutions or t washes.


You were soo lucky there colin.. I encounter quite a few jobs where galvanised objects such as crittals, garage doors etc have'nt been primed right. The worst being wrought gates/ railings where people have put 'Hammerite' ( icon_eek.gif ) strait onto galvanised. 2yrs later its all puckered up (salts) and flaking. Mordant solution is so easy but you have to coat over it before 24 hrs, Tried, tested and trusted by myself for more than 30 yrs. (oh dear should say 40 yrs now icon_cry.gif )


Totally agree, my windows were about 50 years old and in a right state before I attacked them and the galv could have been considered weathered.

As for hammerite, 'orrible stuff, drips and sags very easily and what is it with the price of the thinners !
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