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toadoftoadhall

Joined: 02 Oct 2007 Posts: 3 Location: Worcestershire, United Kingdom
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Posted: Tue Oct 02, 2007 9:25 pm |
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I have a old ACL Lifestyle (ACL Drayton) 3 port valve that has started to get stuck in the "W" (Water) Position.
This means the house is cold!javascript:emoticon ('  ')
Shocked
I can manually push the valve to either the "M" (Mid) or "H" (Heating) position and everything works fine, until the room stat says that it is up to temperature and the valve returns to "W". If room stat comes back in, the valve will not return to the "H" position, until I push the valve to the "M" position and then it will take itself the rest of the way.
Stat appears to be working correctly, tested it with a meter.
Main question is: do people think the valve has had it? Or is it just the motor (Cheaper fix!)
If the valve needs replacing, can I just replace the top unit with a new "push on" type? Such as the "ACL Drayton (Invensys) MA1/679-3 Mid-Position Motorised Valve".
If it can, any ideas how to get the old none push on type off the valve?
Thanks,
Toad javascript:emoticon('  ')
Very Happy |
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corgiman

Joined: 25 Aug 2003 Posts: 10597 Location: Surrey, United Kingdom Thanked: 45 times
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Posted: Tue Oct 02, 2007 9:28 pm |
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if you having to push it over I would say its knackered, and you may have a sludge problem
Just change the whole thing
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Agile

Joined: 26 Jun 2004 Posts: 46024 Location: London, United Kingdom Thanked: 2525 times
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Posted: Tue Oct 02, 2007 9:30 pm |
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I think that the old type has to be renewed whole.
If the motor is working then its not faulty.
If you can get the head off then the shaft may be partly seized. You might be able to free it with WD40 but it may not last very long.
Tony |
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corgiman

Joined: 25 Aug 2003 Posts: 10597 Location: Surrey, United Kingdom Thanked: 45 times
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Posted: Tue Oct 02, 2007 9:31 pm |
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| Agile wrote: | I think that the old type has to be renewed whole.
If the motor is working then its not faulty.
If you can get the head off then the shaft may be partly seized. You might be able to free it with WD40 but it may not last very long.
Tony |
you cant remove the head on them tony but the motors change be change
not that its the problem here anyway
also why should the woman in SL mean owt to me?? |
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toadoftoadhall

Joined: 02 Oct 2007 Posts: 3 Location: Worcestershire, United Kingdom
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Posted: Tue Oct 02, 2007 10:22 pm |
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Thanks for the advice, looks like I'll change the whole valve.
Probably a stupid question, do I have to drain the system down to change it or are there any tricks?
There does not appear to be any drain points around the valve (Other than removing the pump below, which sounds like asking for trouble if I remove that!) |
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corgiman

Joined: 25 Aug 2003 Posts: 10597 Location: Surrey, United Kingdom Thanked: 45 times
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Posted: Tue Oct 02, 2007 10:23 pm |
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| toadoftoadhall wrote: | Thanks for the advice, looks like I'll change the whole valve.
Probably a stupid question, do I have to drain the system down to change it or are there any tricks?
There does not appear to be any drain points around the valve (Other than removing the pump below, which sounds like asking for trouble if I remove that!) |
no tricks just drain it from any drain off (usually on the ground floor)
sorry |
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toadoftoadhall

Joined: 02 Oct 2007 Posts: 3 Location: Worcestershire, United Kingdom
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Posted: Tue Oct 02, 2007 10:25 pm |
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The whole system?
Including turning the boiler off
(The old boiler that might not fire again!)
Thanks for the advice Corgiman, will aim to remove the evidence! |
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corgiman

Joined: 25 Aug 2003 Posts: 10597 Location: Surrey, United Kingdom Thanked: 45 times
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Posted: Tue Oct 02, 2007 10:26 pm |
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| toadoftoadhall wrote: | The whole system?
Including turning the boiler off
(The old boiler that might not fire again!)
Thanks for the advice Corgiman, will aim to remove the evidence! |
dont forget to turn off the pilot as well
well the maybe not the whole system just to under where your valve is
And dam right remove the evidence  |
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