Does any one know where i can get a control panel from for the heat line vizo 24? Mine is just over a year old and started making a clicking noise. Got up this morning and the boiler was dead. On stripping it down there is a blown fuse on the main circuit board. Guess what ever was clicking has blown the fuse. Think it must of been a faulty transformer or something attached to the circuit board. Has anyone else had problems with this boiler?
Heat line vizo 24
- Thread starter mattysupra
- Start date
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Its most likely to be a faulty pump.
If you have no test equipment try connecting the pump to a 13a plug fitted with a 3A fuse and see if that blows the fuse and also if the PCB operates without blowing its on board fuse.
There are generally very reliable boilers. However because they are cheap to buy they are usually badly installed on a dirty system and suffer from blocked heat exchangers and seized up pumps.
Tony
If you have no test equipment try connecting the pump to a 13a plug fitted with a 3A fuse and see if that blows the fuse and also if the PCB operates without blowing its on board fuse.
There are generally very reliable boilers. However because they are cheap to buy they are usually badly installed on a dirty system and suffer from blocked heat exchangers and seized up pumps.
Tony
The clicking noise was happening about every 30 seconds even when the boiler was not running and coming from the bottom of the boiler. The pumps are higher up but i will test them if you think this may be the fault. Also the pipes etc are new and flushed when boiler was fitted.
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i would also check that there is no water leaking from the seal around diverter valve pin in to the lead of the diverter motor.
the fuse on the board are 1.25 A quick blow, i would get a engineer to find the fault and repair or you may cost your self more money in the long run from changing parts.
best bet is to phone heatline to get the number of the local service agent as they will have all the spares need to repair it.
the fuse on the board are 1.25 A quick blow, i would get a engineer to find the fault and repair or you may cost your self more money in the long run from changing parts.
best bet is to phone heatline to get the number of the local service agent as they will have all the spares need to repair it.
i just put another fuse in the board to see if anything would click but instead another fuse blew instead. The boiler is just over 12 months old and clean with no leeks. There did seem to be a slight buz from a black thingy with a clip holding it in place. Think it is the diverter valve as seems to have a pipe going to the rads and a pipe going to the hot water taps going into it.
mattysupra, with the mains power off can you get your nose to the black thing and see if it smells of burning plastic. also if you feel up too it take the clip of and see if you can see/feel water there. but please be mindful that the clip can be hard to get back in.
if you find that the dv motor is burned and the diveter valve is leaking the sealing o-ring will need to be replaced and when you put the dv motor back on have the lead pointing up to stop future leaks burning out/arcing the dv motor.
if you find that the dv motor is burned and the diveter valve is leaking the sealing o-ring will need to be replaced and when you put the dv motor back on have the lead pointing up to stop future leaks burning out/arcing the dv motor.
It does not make much diference which way its orientated as its the internal contacts which cause the problem.
The failed "O" ring seal is not replaceable on its own unless you are into serious disassembly like Chris R who is currently languishing in a hospital in South Africa ( Nothing to do with boilers though! )
Tony
The failed "O" ring seal is not replaceable on its own unless you are into serious disassembly like Chris R who is currently languishing in a hospital in South Africa ( Nothing to do with boilers though! )
Tony
if there is one thing im good at it is taken things apart and putting them back together again. If they work again after thats a bonus 
Like i said tho. there is no leek at all. and i tried getting my head in the gap to give a sniff but my head will not fit. Even with the mrs giving it a good push Anyway i have got a heatline engineer coming out tommorow. Found an extended warrentee i never sent off that when telling heatline i did they very nicely believed me
Like i said tho. there is no leek at all. and i tried getting my head in the gap to give a sniff but my head will not fit. Even with the mrs giving it a good push Anyway i have got a heatline engineer coming out tommorow. Found an extended warrentee i never sent off that when telling heatline i did they very nicely believed me Well done. It turns out this was the problem. But there was no water present. The guy said it is strange not to have any water leek there when the part had burnt out. After a closer look it had leaked at some other time. Also loads of sludge on the pin bit which he also changed and told me to flush the system. Thanks for your advice. Guess i will be chasing you up when i cant claim on the guarantee!
tho it is not a Competition, it nice to get it right. i am a service agent for heat-line and have seen this before so have a bit of insider knowledge
i would angle your new dv motor lead upwards and get your system cleaned!!! to stop this from happening again.
i would angle your new dv motor lead upwards and get your system cleaned!!! to stop this from happening again.
i am cleaning the system now. i have drained the system and removed the bolt with the bleed screw in on each rad and replaced with a modified nut connected to the hose. Pumping clean water through the system and turning each rad on and off in turn. There is loads of black stuff coming out of each rad. Sort of a home made power washer! Im leaving it to run on each rad until the water runs clean and making sure the pressure is kept below 2 bar. I take it this will do no harm???
sounds not a bad system of cleaning, after that i would check the return filter which is built in to the isolation valve under the boiler(which should be on the return side) to make sure it is clean. i would fit a magnaclean for good measure as well on the return side.
put x400 in the system as well for a few weeks and flush out the rads/system again, then add x100.
hopefully the crud has not blocked up your dhw heat exchanger and or damaged anything. i always recommend a magnaclean with dirty systems like yours as even with flushing there will be still some crud in your system.
the vizo are nice boilers but with budget boilers they get put in cheaply so conners are cut.
put x400 in the system as well for a few weeks and flush out the rads/system again, then add x100.
hopefully the crud has not blocked up your dhw heat exchanger and or damaged anything. i always recommend a magnaclean with dirty systems like yours as even with flushing there will be still some crud in your system.
the vizo are nice boilers but with budget boilers they get put in cheaply so conners are cut.
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