DIAGRAM FOR PLUMBING IN A THERMOSTATIC MIXER GRAVITY FED

beermontypython · 20 Oct 2007

Can someone please clarify for me please the following:
I have an Armetage Shanks thermostatic mixer valve.

I understand that the cold water feed has to come from the tank in the loft, I live in a bungalow so the tank is about 2 metres above where the shower head will be. I have an old galvanised water tank which has the main outlet coming straight out of the bottom of the tank. I was going to drill a 22m hole in the side about 3 " from the bottom and fit a tank connector then using 22m down to the mixer valve and the use a 22m reducer to 15m and into the valve. I think that would probably be ok.
As far as the hot supply is concerned I was going to put a tee off the 22m pipe coming out of the top of the hot water cylinder and then use another reducer to 15m into the valve. The valve is about 5" lower than the 22m coming out of the cylinder. Would all this be ok or is there somewhere I can get a diagram from, thanks..

Softus · 20 Oct 2007

beermontypython said:
Can someone please clarify for me please the following:
I have an Armetage Shanks thermostatic mixer valve.

I hereby confirm that you do.

...drill a 22m hole etc...I think that would probably be ok.

So do I.

As far as the hot supply is concerned I was going to put a tee off the 22m pipe coming out of the top of the hot water cylinder etc...Would all this be ok

As long as you don't pump the hot, your proposed method of connection will be OK. If you add a pump later then you'd be well advised to fit a dedicated connection to the cylinder, e.g. am Essex flange.

beermontypython · 20 Oct 2007

Thanks for the quick supportive reply...Do you think I need to use 22m from the tank as close to the valve as poss or would using a reducer at the tank end be ok, it would just be a tad cheaper.
I though about using push fit copper connections, how do I judge how much I need to cut off the pipe to be able to get the push fits on.
cheers

Softus · 20 Oct 2007

beermontypython said:
Thanks for the quick supportive reply...Do you think I need to use 22m from the tank as close to the valve as poss or would using a reducer at the tank end be ok, it would just be a tad cheaper.

Swings and roundabouts - smaller bore pipe will get the hot water to the mixer more quickly when starting from cold, but will be more restrictive.

How long is the run of pipework from cylinder to valve?

I though about using push fit copper connections, how do I judge how much I need to cut off the pipe to be able to get the push fits on.

Do you mean Tectite (or similar) fittings? If so, then there is an installation guide for those fittings. Or you can look inside the fitting and see how far the pipe will go.

beermontypython · 21 Oct 2007

Hello again.

The fittings I thought about using are in the screwfix catalogue called cuprofit. I am happy to use compression fittings if you think they would do.

I am in a bungalow, the cylinder is in a cupboard about one metre square in the bathroom, the valve will be on the outside wall of the cupboard, the distance between the top outlet and the valve is about 2 feet, there is not a lot of room to get the tee in but where I was thinking of putting the tee it would be about one foot away from the valve, as mentioned before the valve would be about 5" below the level of the outlet. Hope this makes sense.
Thanks

beermontypython · 21 Oct 2007

If it would help I could take a picture of the cylinder and existing pipework although I'm not sure how to attach one to the posting

Softus · 21 Oct 2007

beermontypython said:
If it would help I could take a picture of the cylinder and existing pipework although I'm not sure how to attach one to the posting

Yes please.

PS: Fish.

beermontypython · 21 Oct 2007

I cant seem to find anything about how to attach picture,, could you advise please

Softus · 21 Oct 2007

Step by step guide to posting a picture on the forum

beermontypython · 21 Oct 2007

Thank you softus.
I think my pics worked,, I'm 65 and dont always find these things simple

IMG]http://i110.photobucket.com/albums/n98/videoimage_2006/Picture031.jpg[/IMG]

beermontypython · 21 Oct 2007

Thank you mod7 sorry about the confusion

beermontypython · 21 Oct 2007

Hello again Softas,, now that I managed to get the pictures on do you have any more advise or suggestions please before I go ahead.
thanks

Softus · 21 Oct 2007

The vertical distance between cylinder outlet and shower valve is not important in this scenario. The vertical distance between base of cistern (in the loft) and the shower head is important.

The valve documentation should tell you the minimum pressure (or head) that is needed for the valve to work adequately. If you can't meet that requirement then you'll need a pump. If you have a pump you'll need an Essex (or Surrey etc.) flange.

It's not really feasible to say which is the best type of pipe and fittings for you to use, because it depends on many factors. Each type requires a certain degree of skill in installing, but plastic pipe and push-fit fittings are easier for the amateur because if you make a mistake it's quicker to correct it. Hepworth Hep2o are the easiest (IMHO) to dismantle and rearrange, so you might want to consider those.

Equally, if you fancy doing it all in copper and compression, that would work just as well.

Whatever you do, don't neglect to support the pipework so that strain is not placed on the fittings - strained fittings are leaks waiting to happen.

beermontypython · 21 Oct 2007

Thank you Softas, the distance from the shower head to the base of the tank in the loft is about 2 metres

Softus · 21 Oct 2007

beermontypython said:
Thank you Softas, the distance from the shower head to the base of the tank in the loft is about 2 metres

OK - this approximates to 0.2 bar. You need to look in the shower valve installation guide to see if this is within the acceptable operating pressure range.

PS: there is no 'a' in "Softus".

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DIAGRAM FOR PLUMBING IN A THERMOSTATIC MIXER GRAVITY FED

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