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Help with Ideal Icos HE24 Boiler.

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KentishOwl

from United Kingdom

Joined: 23 Oct 2007
Posts: 7
Location: London,
United Kingdom

PostPosted: Tue Oct 23, 2007 5:29 pm Reply with quote

Hi,

I own an Ideal ICOS He24 Combi boiler system. One morning about a month ago I realised the boiler had stopped functioning and was displaying the error code L9 or sometimes H9 depending on whether I attempted to start the central heating or hot water. I looked in the manual and found out the codes meant:

"H9/L9 - Heat Exchanger Overheat - advised to check the system is filled and vented and the thermistor values are correct and also inspect heat exchanger for blockage or damage."

I called out an engineer who took a look at the boiler and told me that a new error code was showing (which it was, but I had not seen this before his visit). The new error code was LE/HE. The engineer read the manual and found that this indicated a PCB fault and decided that another PCB should be ordered. We did that and he turned up a couple of days later and replaced the PCB but unfortunately the boiler would still not work.

Now, the boiler starts up when it is switched on and the fan seems to increase in speed while the pressure needle (which whilst stationary is at 1.5 bar) jumps around along with loud clunks from inside the system. This lasts perhaps a minute before the boiler gives up and shuts down, the burner light flashing.

Does anybody have any idea what the problem might be? I've now spent 1000 on engineers bills and still no-one has diagnosed the problem- the last suggestion being to get a new boiler. This has now been going on close to a month and I don't seem to be any closer to knowing what is wrong. It's also getting colder and we have no hot water and are having to sleep in our clothes! Any ideas would be appreciated.
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gas4you

from United Kingdom

Joined: 23 Feb 2007
Posts: 17597
Location: Norfolk,
United Kingdom
Thanked: 746 times

PostPosted: Tue Oct 23, 2007 5:45 pm Reply with quote

I take it you have an Isar if it is a combi icon_rolleyes.gif Icos is heat only

Has anyone checked the pump is spinning correctly?

Does anything work hw or ch?

Check the condensate sump is not blocked, as this will back up into HE and wreck the boiler

Error codes on these are not always what they tell you they are icon_rolleyes.gif

Why have you paid out for fixes that have not fixed the problem icon_eek.gif icon_confused.gif

I only charge for the fix that fixes it icon_wink.gif
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KentishOwl

from United Kingdom

Joined: 23 Oct 2007
Posts: 7
Location: London,
United Kingdom

PostPosted: Tue Oct 23, 2007 6:42 pm Reply with quote

It's definitely an ICOS boiler and controls central heating and hotwater (maybe I'm confused as to what a combi is?! I don't really know anything about this sort of thing.).

Neither the CH or HW are working.

I'm in dispute at the moment about the payments and the fact that the boiler is still not fixed. I think it's worked out as 5 hours or so labour so far and then the cost of the PCB + VAT.

How do I go about checking if the pump is spinning correctly? - I know where it is and that I have to remove the display panel to get at it etc. Is it possible that this is why the boiler is shutting down with the associated clunking and pressure needle jumping?

Thanks a lot for your time on this! It's much appreciated.
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gas4you

from United Kingdom

Joined: 23 Feb 2007
Posts: 17597
Location: Norfolk,
United Kingdom
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PostPosted: Tue Oct 23, 2007 6:54 pm Reply with quote

I assume both ch isolating valves under the boiler are open?

Try setting any zone valves you have to manually open.

Turn off power at fused outlet.

Carefully remove the display panel unit and move to one side so any drops of water cannot get into/on it.

Undo the large silver screw in the center of the pump and remove. Put a towel under pump as water will run out.

Insert a flat bladed screwdriver and locate on spindle and try to turn it.

If it will not turn then pump is stuck. Use a bit more force to shift it but if it won't move at all then new pump is required.

DO NOT let any water onto pcb housing, display unit or any electrics etc.
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KentishOwl

from United Kingdom

Joined: 23 Oct 2007
Posts: 7
Location: London,
United Kingdom

PostPosted: Tue Oct 23, 2007 7:13 pm Reply with quote

Hi again, and thanks again for the response.

When I undo the screw in order to get to the spindle, should water carry on coming out or should there be a slight amount and then it stops? While I'm tring to undo the screw to get to the spindle it seems a lot of water is draining - is this normal?

Thanks for your time.
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gas4you

from United Kingdom

Joined: 23 Feb 2007
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Location: Norfolk,
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PostPosted: Tue Oct 23, 2007 8:09 pm Reply with quote

Yes this is normal, which is why I recommended a towel and warned about the pcb etc.

You could try dropping the system pressure first, but usually it only takes a few seconds to test the pump and/or free it.
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KentishOwl

from United Kingdom

Joined: 23 Oct 2007
Posts: 7
Location: London,
United Kingdom

PostPosted: Tue Oct 23, 2007 8:18 pm Reply with quote

Ok done that. The spindle turns no problem. Can we assume it's not a pump issue from this?

Thanks again for your help.
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gas4you

from United Kingdom

Joined: 23 Feb 2007
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Location: Norfolk,
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PostPosted: Tue Oct 23, 2007 8:22 pm Reply with quote

You can assume the pump is not stuck. I assume the auto air vent cap is loose?

You need to check for 230v at the pump terminals when the boiler is trying to fire.
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KentishOwl

from United Kingdom

Joined: 23 Oct 2007
Posts: 7
Location: London,
United Kingdom

PostPosted: Tue Oct 23, 2007 8:45 pm Reply with quote

The auto air vent seems fine. I don't think I have the equipment to check voltage so not sure how I would do this. I'm kind of assuming now it could be a variety of things so should I perhaps bite the bullet and fork out more cash?

The boiler is only 2 years old as the house is a new build so maybe it's disconcerting I'm having such problems already.....Do you think there's anything else I can check myself before calling someone out? It does seem like boiler wants to start up before the clunking sound and pressure gauge jumping starts....

It's great to be able to get an opinion on what might be wrong so I'm very grateful for your time.
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gas4you

from United Kingdom

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PostPosted: Tue Oct 23, 2007 8:51 pm Reply with quote

Whoahh there then.

If it is new build and only 2 years old, then is it 2 years old, just over or just under?

Builders have to warrant everything , especially heating system for the first 2 years.

If it is under 2 years then you should not have paid out anything to anyone icon_eek.gif

When I get called out and it looks like new build, I always ask how old before I start doing anything and if less than 2 then I walk away recommending a warranty visit.
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KentishOwl

from United Kingdom

Joined: 23 Oct 2007
Posts: 7
Location: London,
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PostPosted: Tue Oct 23, 2007 8:55 pm Reply with quote

Unfortunately it's about 2 yrs 4 months!
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gas4you

from United Kingdom

Joined: 23 Feb 2007
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PostPosted: Tue Oct 23, 2007 9:03 pm Reply with quote

Has the boiler had the 2 required services it should have had already?

The cheapest solution for you now would be , if they will come out, is to call Ideal out on a fixed price call out, 175 all in I believe.

This is starting to sound like one of those faults where you have to be there to diagnose it.

Has anyone checked the presure in the expansion vessel with the system pressure at zero?

You need to take the fan off to do this on this boiler.
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KentishOwl

from United Kingdom

Joined: 23 Oct 2007
Posts: 7
Location: London,
United Kingdom

PostPosted: Tue Oct 23, 2007 9:13 pm Reply with quote

I've actually booked Ideal to come out twice now (the first being 2 weeks ago) and both times they have cancelled on me - though they didn't tell me about this, I had to ring them on the day to find out! The next time a guy is supposedly coming out is on Friday but I'm not holding too much hope there. The first guy I got out was a London plumber from one of the bigger companies but like I said, he doesn't seem to know what the problem is so far and I'm concerned about the escalating bill there.

I just wish the first guy would have done some more in depth checks instead of just changing the PCB which I would have guessed wasn't the real problem due to the original error codes I received. Anyway, with your help, I think I'm up to my limit as to what I'd feel comfortable checking myself and as it still seems to be an enigma as to what the problem is I feel I'd be wasting your time pursuing it further! Thanks a lot for your help, least I've learned a bit more about a boiler! I appreciate these forums and the advice given.
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idealnumber1

from United Kingdom

Joined: 29 Nov 2008
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Location: Liverpool,
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PostPosted: Wed Dec 03, 2008 6:06 pm Reply with quote

have you got the problem fixed?
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Agile

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PostPosted: Wed Dec 03, 2008 6:13 pm Reply with quote

As it was 14 months ago I certainly hope he has got it fixed!

Tony
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