Insulating walls

[Anton]

The 'advice' for doing internal walls....not very comprehensive is it? What size battens? estimated cost? effectiveness? etc.

Also, for external (cavity walls) can this be done on a DIY basis?

[Guest]

Battens are nomally 2x1 sawn but i prefer the use of polystyrene backed plasterboard. Have done my sitting room with east facing wall. Expensive but less work than drylining. Fix boards with special adhesive or builders foam(melts some backings) Sheffield Insulations can supply.

[Guest]

pardon my ignorance but what is dry lining? i always thought that that is plasterboard i.e a stud wall

[SimonR]

I am dry lining a wall, (Duplex Platerboard, 1 inch gap) but what do I do when I come up against a wall Adj which is not dry lined?

[Barry]

SimonR wrote:

I am dry lining a wall, (Duplex Platerboard, 1 inch gap) but what do I do when I come up against a wall Adj which is not dry lined?

Simply butt joint. the plaster skim to your new plasterboard will adhere to the old of the adjacent wall. Internal walls will not require insulation.

[simonbeasley]

I went to the Homebuilding & Renovation show at the NEC and saw some good products from Fermacell. They do a fibre board that doesn't need plastering; they make ready-mixed glue and joint filler that appear to require absolutely no special skill to apply perfectly. They also do adjustable metal battens to fix them to the wall that allow for the wall not being quite straight. Other makers may do these as well.

[staylong]

fermacell

for prices here is a supplier in Lancashire... just to give you an idea of cost try here
Got to construction-walllevel-fermacell

[breezer]

nice information, but i bet Anton (origonal poster) has had it done by now, he asked that over 16 months ago

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[MikeWhitehead]

I have recently used Fermacell to make a new ceiling in my bathroom. It was brilliant - much easier than plasterboard for a DIYer to put up.
A few tips -
- From the Fermacell website you can download a Handy Guide that is well worth reading before doing anything.
- For fixing, screws are easier to control than nails. Pre-drill the screwholes before offering up the boards.
- As with plasterboard, make a T-shaped prop to help put up the boards.
- If using the Jointstik to join the boards, use it very sparingly, because it oozes out of the joints and isn't as easy to remove as Fermacell say it is; when dry it is harder than the board and therefore difficult to sand down flush with the board.
- I didn't use the Fermacell joint filler because it also dries very hard and I expected the same difficulty sanding it down as I'd had with the Jointstik.
- If using the Fine Surface Treatment for a 'glass' finish before painting, apply it very sparingly. Don't try for a complete covering unless you are good at plastering. It is only meant to fill in the micro-pores on the board and any small gaps at the joints between the boards.
- The supplier in Bristol is the FGF Organisation, who were very helpful to me.